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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone else have this happen? When I pull up to a parking spot to back in, as I turn the steering wheel the other way and back up there is a clunking sound. I had a mechanic thoroughly search for worn bushings and he could not find anything out of the ordinary. It won't do it on something that allows the tires to slide, such as on gravel and grass. It has to be on solid pavement to create the resistance necessary to make it clunk.
 

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Subframe needs retorquing? Does it ever happen when starting from a stop or coming to a halt?
The subframe was my problem the last time my car did that. I've found that the factory torque specs for the subframe bolts aren't always tight enough. I've snugged mine up with a breaker bar with the 4' handle from my jack slipped over the end for extra leverage, but be careful because you don't want to break a subframe bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It doesn't do it when stopping and starting. I was reading about someone with the same issue turned out to be a cv joint, I'm wondering if it may be that.
 

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The noise is usually caused by a very small amount of bearing shift in the hub.
It comes about as a result of spacing between it (bearing) and the retention cir-clips.
It is 'classic' for these cars.
I made a few stainless spacers for my car when I replaced the front bearings.
Never had it happen since.
 

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Strut mounts are new, so can't be that.
Did you replace the bearings? When it's the spring, it's actually jumping a little because the bearing doesn't move smoothly. That can be because the bearing isn't good, isn't installed properly, or the mount has something funky going on (ideally the bearing casing half are stationary and they pivot on the bearings themselves but if the mount doesn't hold it properly or chatters due to issues, the spring will chatter). Also, not all aftermarket mounts are of the right caliber.

The good news is that it's fairly easy to check. You'll hear/feel if it's the spring chattering.

The noise is usually caused by a very small amount of bearing shift in the hub.
It comes about as a result of spacing between it (bearing) and the retention cir-clips.
It is 'classic' for these cars.
I made a few stainless spacers for my car when I replaced the front bearings.
Never had it happen since.
Saabjock: I don't doubt your fix, but how can the bearing move vs. a vs. the C-clip? It's pressed in with some ungodly amount of force. The axle is butted up tight against the bearing, not the strut, so there's no room for play there.
 

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Did you replace the bearings? When it's the spring, it's actually jumping a little because the bearing doesn't move smoothly. That can be because the bearing isn't good, isn't installed properly, or the mount has something funky going on (ideally the bearing casing half are stationary and they pivot on the bearings themselves but if the mount doesn't hold it properly or chatters due to issues, the spring will chatter). Also, not all aftermarket mounts are of the right caliber.

The good news is that it's fairly easy to check. You'll hear/feel if it's the spring chattering.



Saabjock: I don't doubt your fix, but how can the bearing move vs. a vs. the C-clip? It's pressed in with some ungodly amount of force. The axle is butted up tight against the bearing, not the strut, so there's no room for play there.
You'd think it couldn't move because of the sheer amount of force it takes to press that bearing in...but we've actually proven it by using a small bit of Blue Dykem to track movement.
It is very, very small when it happens...but it is there.
It drove us nut for a while in the shop.
We had a client who does not like to hear a single rattle or noise of any kind.
We tightened sub-frame, replaced stanchion bushings, checked strut and steering rack mounts, etc....
It proved difficult to track down.
That 'C' clip on the inner drive cup allows a few thousandths of side movement.
Remember.... the lock-nut is only tightening the outer universal drive cup relative to the hub.
Sounds do get amplified in that knuckle....it's one of the reasons why a bad wheel bearing sounds so bad.
 

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Interesting. Where did you get the shim material and how'd you cut good circles in that size? Are we talking something a few thousandths thick?
 

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What you'll need to do, is press the bearing in and seat it against one of the two circlips...then insert the other circlip temporarily and use the feeler gauge to determine thickness.
Remember...the opening on the clips must face downward at assembly.
 

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What you'll need to do, is press the bearing in and seat it against one of the two circlips...then insert the other circlip temporarily and use the feeler gauge to determine thickness.
Remember...the opening on the clips must face downward at assembly.
Yeah, I was just wondering about the ballpark for clearance so I could pre-stock some shims and avoid an order delay.
 
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