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Literally any degreaser is fine. I like Home Depot's store brand spray bottle (HDX). Simple Green great too, also good for brake dust on wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Just bit the bullet and did it. Disconnected the battery, used the Gunk Foam cleaner with a soft brush and it worked great!

Don't have the feeling that it ruined anything. Splashed water from a bucket on everything to wipe it all away. Honestly, it still could be cleaner, and I bet I could achieve that with a heavier-duty cleaner, but I don't think it's worth the hassle/risk

Let it idle for 10 minutes to dry, then took it for a short drive to dry even more. Nothing out of the ordinary. Serpentine belt sounds like it may be squealing even louder now, probably cause of the water? I'm planning on replacing that soon anyway

The engine block itself still doesn't look great, but that's because it has that old, peeling look to it. Oh well

No pics because it's getting dark out and it's cloudy, maybe I'll post one tomorrow
 

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How to SUPER CLEAN your Engine Bay - YouTube

Start watching at 4:10 for why you wouldn't want to use a pressure washer.

Start watching at 9:24 for hot/cold engine discussion. Cold/warm engine is fine, hot is not.
^^^this is your proof on why you shouldn't use a pressure washer??? :roll:

I do not recommend any degreasers on rubber components on a car. Heck why do people using rubber dressing on the rubber components? It does not extend the life of the rubber. If you want to protect the rubber you use something like 303 Rubber Seal.

Everyone has there own way of doing things. But to tell someone they are wrong and providing no facts just an opinion, then you are just as wrong.
 

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^^^this is your proof on why you shouldn't use a pressure washer??? :roll:

I do not recommend any degreasers on rubber components on a car. Heck why do people using rubber dressing on the rubber components? It does not extend the life of the rubber. If you want to protect the rubber you use something like 303 Rubber Seal.

Everyone has there own way of doing things. But to tell someone they are wrong and providing no facts just an opinion, then you are just as wrong.
These are all opinions dude. Other than the "no pressure washing" warnings in the engine bay, like on my 9-4X's fuse box cover (see pic below), there's no "facts" being pushed here. I posted a link to the ChrisFix video because while it's by no means the authority on engine cleaning, it's a good place to start for anyone that has never done it before.



Also, the science of thermodynamics and metallurgy can be considered "fact" in my book (but that's just my opinion...), so I will choose not to spray water on a HOT engine.

Finally, the face that everyone has their own way of doing things is awesome - that's what these forums are for.
 

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Guess how I wash my engine bay?
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I don't.
 

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These are all opinions dude. Other than the "no pressure washing" warnings in the engine bay, like on my 9-4X's fuse box cover (see pic below), there's no "facts" being pushed here. I posted a link to the ChrisFix video because while it's by no means the authority on engine cleaning, it's a good place to start for anyone that has never done it before.



Also, the science of thermodynamics and metallurgy can be considered "fact" in my book (but that's just my opinion...), so I will choose not to spray water on a HOT engine.

Finally, the face that everyone has their own way of doing things is awesome - that's what these forums are for.
Cool, dude;ol;
 

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Figured I would chime in on this even though I'm late to the party. I detail cars for a living. Literally have detailed 100s of engine bays. You CAN use a pressure washer or a garden hose, just don't be an idiot. For example, don't hold the high pressure stream in the same place for too long or around sensitive areas (alternator, fuse box, etc.....you get it). Keep the stream of water constantly moving. Most modern engine bays are designed to get wet. They're fine with free flowing water. Best way to avoid damage after using water is to blow everything out with air. Either an air compressor, the reverse end of a shop vac (this is what I use), or a car dryer. Get into all of the sensors, all of the areas where water has pooled or sat, etc and blow it all out. If you don't have access to this, you can turn the car on after you are done and let the engine heat up and dry itself.

ALSO, you can work on an engine that is warm, but not hot (you'll burn yourself duh). I often have to work on warm engines. Use the water to cool them a little, and work in small sections because the hot engine will dry out your chemicals and make them hard to use. Again, don't be an idiot. If you are scared of getting water into the wrong place, wrap whatever it is in a plastic bag or use painters tape. But normally it's not an issue. I always fire the motor up right after I have finished rinsing/blowing just to make sure everything is good, and I have never had an issue with free flowing water, especially on vehicles 2005 and newer.

As far as chemicals to use.....any degreaser works. I personally use Super Clean and I dilute it 4:1 for engine bays. You can use it straight if you have a really nasty bay, or even get the aerosol can because it has some foaming cling action. I have also used purple power, simple green, citrol, multiple zep cleaners, and spray 9. Really its the brushes you use that make the difference between getting everything clean vs missing spots. My speedmaster or EZ detail brush is a life saver for small areas. Other than that any normal flag tip brush and smaller detailing brush is all you need.

Sorry for the long winded response. I see so many conflicting opinions here that I figured why not share a professional opinion on the matter. Cliff Notes: Free flowing water is fine, you can work on a warm engine bay but not a hot one, any degreaser works, get many brushes.
 
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