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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After looking through the endless amount of posts regarding the audio in our saabs I feel like I have a great idea but feel like it would be too easy.

For starters I have a 1997 900se with the 6 speaker system and have began to upgrade the previously 100% stock speakers. I have ordered MTX 6.5 components for the doors with no plans for the tweeters that come along with it.

I found this DD head unit which I believe I can make fit (not the question here) http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020CX201/Clarion-CX201.html it is from crutchfield so it comes with the wiring harness to be able to plug directly into the factory one so it seems pretty basic, but after installation of this head unit I would like to add the 4 channel amp that is available for all clarion head units with easy install http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020XC1410/Clarion-XC1410.html

Now here's the crazy part. I want to connect the 4 channel clarion amp to the door speakers while eliminating the 3.5 inch speakers and instead placing the tweeters in their spots connected to the 6.5 inch ones thus completing the component system ran off the first half of the 4 channel amp and then using the other two channels on the 6x9s in the rear and then adding a sub in the back with it's own amp to make up for the bass I will lack since the door woofers will not be filtered anymore by the factory amp as I would be getting rid of the factory amp all together.

In summary I would be using the 6.5 component system on 2 channels without a frequency filter and the 6x9 inch speaker on the other 2 channels of the clarion amp also with no frequency filter. Alongside these would be a sub and amp. All of these hooked up to the previously mentioned clarion head unit.

So the question is would this work? How difficult would this end up being and would it be practical to do this to the system?
 

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That is pretty much what I did with my old setup, but I used the NX501 instead, 4 channel amp powering a set of components up front and the 6x9s in the rear and then a monoblock amp powering a 12" sub in a custom enclosure.

The speakers and the amp is the easy bit, making the headunit fit in the dash will be the hard part, it will need a lot of cutting, tweaking and custom fitting to get it looking halfway decent.

There are some pics in my build thread:
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217667
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how difficult was it to put the amp in? I'm worried that it will be hard to remove the 3.5 inch speakers. I guess I'm just unclear if the factory unit is a 6 channel or if it's 4 channel and the two door woofers are just connected to the 3.5 speaker but running off the amp.
 

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how difficult was it to put the amp in? I'm worried that it will be hard to remove the 3.5 inch speakers. I guess I'm just unclear if the factory unit is a 6 channel or if it's 4 channel and the two door woofers are just connected to the 3.5 speaker but running off the amp.
3.5" speakers come out the top of the dash after you pop the grilles off, they are the easiest speakers to remove.

Factory stereo has 4 channel amplifier built in for the 3.5s in the dash and the 6x9s in the trunk, PLUS a preamp output that feeds the factory amp which powers the door woofers.
 

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Yeah like Nick said the front speakers are pretty easy, just make sure you have a torx socket and small (1/4" drive) ratchet, there isn't enough room with the windshield to get a torx driver in there.
The Amp is an easy install, plenty of grounding points in the trunk, you can tap in to the green wire on the power antenna for the remote turn on and then run a positive feed cable anyway you want (easiest solution would be under the car and then through one of the plugs in the trunk floor, though I just extended the one for the stock amp and ran it under the carpet down the middle of the car). There is plenty of room under the door sill covers to run the RCA cables and then the cable for the front speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
3.5" speakers come out the top of the dash after you pop the grilles off, they are the easiest speakers to remove.

Factory stereo has 4 channel amplifier built in for the 3.5s in the dash and the 6x9s in the trunk, PLUS a preamp output that feeds the factory amp which powers the door woofers.
So to run the component speakers I would have to use the speaker Channel for the 3.5 speakers and run the wires into the door for the woofer and then have the tweeters off of that?

Yeah like Nick said the front speakers are pretty easy, just make sure you have a torx socket and small (1/4" drive) ratchet, there isn't enough room with the windshield to get a torx driver in there.
The Amp is an easy install, plenty of grounding points in the trunk, you can tap in to the green wire on the power antenna for the remote turn on and then run a positive feed cable anyway you want (easiest solution would be under the car and then through one of the plugs in the trunk floor, though I just extended the one for the stock amp and ran it under the carpet down the middle of the car). There is plenty of room under the door sill covers to run the RCA cables and then the cable for the front speakers.

I'm not sure if we're on the same page as far as the amp goes. It's a very small amp that I would be putting in the factory amp location. It plugs directly into the head unit and goes between the heady it and the speaker wires attached to the other end of the wiring harness.
 

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If you are using a 4 channel amp then you will use 2 channels to power the front speakers (even though you have 4 speakers in the component set up, they are treated like a pair by the amp, you one the speaker outputs from the amp to the cross over and then the cross over splits the signal between the mid/sub and tweeter) and then the other 2 channels for the rears.
If you are mounting it in the stock location then there really isn't much wiring to worry about, just use the stock amps power connections, though I don't think there are many 4-channel amps that will fit in that location.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you are using a 4 channel amp then you will use 2 channels to power the front speakers (even though you have 4 speakers in the component set up, they are treated like a pair by the amp, you one the speaker outputs from the amp to the cross over and then the cross over splits the signal between the mid/sub and tweeter) and then the other 2 channels for the rears.
If you are mounting it in the stock location then there really isn't much wiring to worry about, just use the stock amps power connections, though I don't think there are many 4-channel amps that will fit in that location.
Will I have to rewire the speakers in order to do that? Look at the link I posted in the beginning. It's very small and the connection is atypical because it requires unplugging the clarion speaker harness from the head unit and inserting the amps connection and then plugging the speaker harness into the amp. It's the same thing as the Alpine ktp445 that plugs right into the head unit.
 

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Just connect it like you would any other amp, RCA cable from the headunit to the amp for the preamp signal, then connect the speaker outputs to the speakers, the only difference is that this amp as a small length of wiring already attached for the speaker outputs, just solder those to the wires that come with the new speakers/crossovers and install the speakers. I'd look at a better headunit though, that one is a little weak in the preamp output dept for that price.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just connect it like you would any other amp, RCA cable from the headunit to the amp for the preamp signal, then connect the speaker outputs to the speakers, the only difference is that this amp as a small length of wiring already attached for the speaker outputs, just solder those to the wires that come with the new speakers/crossovers and install the speakers. I'd look at a better headunit though, that one is a little weak in the preamp output dept for that price.
Okay I will look into it further when I get to the point that I can afford the expensive parts to do it right the first time. I appreciate the input!
Thanks
 

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Yeah, I think to do what you were thinking the amp would have to mounted next to the headunit (and there isn't enough room in our case) that way you could take the output wires from the amp and connect them directly to the iso adapter, but since you are mounting it in the stock location the wires wont reach so you would have solder a length of wire for each connection to extend it, then solder it at the other end, then cut off the stock speaker connector by the speaker and solder the connectors for the new speakers. Seems like a lot of extra work and destruction of the stock wiring (if you ever want to return to stock) vs. just ignoring the factory wiring and running the new wires that come with the new speakers to the wires coming out of the amp, 1/3 of the soldering if you do it that way too.

It's a lot of work to make a 2din radio fit and look right, I'd only do it if there was a significant reason vs. doing a single din with a fill pocket, and I don't see any standout qualities of that headunit to justify the extra work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just thought it was the only way to make it look good, I've never seen a single din one put in so I haven't even researched that. Honestly I just want an audio input and I'd rather not do the tape thing or whatever. I think it'd be easier to just put in a new head unit.
 

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There is this: http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20060924.Saab_NG900_Line_Input/ if you just want the input.

It looks like a double din would be easy, but the space left by the stock radio isn't a full 2din spot so you have to do some cutting and trimming to make it work and then figure out something for the gap left around the outer edge. The single din is an easier install.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ya that just seems like overkill to keep the stock underpowered head unit. I'm thinking I'm just gonna do a little research on the single din setups and see if I can do that for a decent price
 
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