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Discussion Starter #1
Now that I have fixed the Informatiion display
The check engine light is on,
I imagine it has been on all the time I have owned the car.
Why did I fix the display unit to see the check engine light!!

When I turn on the key after about 2 seconds the CEL flashes 4 times quickly, then a delay, and 4 times quickly again. I am thinking, from what I have read so far, that this simply indicates a fault.

So if anyone can help me clear the codes I would appreciate it.

I have read that I can connect to the n3 diagnostic pin, in the green connector under the seat, the earlier version of tech II, and use a jumper to reset the codes.
But there does seem to be a lack of clarity, one person warns about connecting the wrong connector, and letting the smoke out

I have been reading the Haynes Techbook.
It suggests connecting the Saab jumper to the no 3 terminal in the 3 terminal block under the bonnet. Maybe this refers to an earlier model, as both this car and my 93 griffin have the connector, but with no leads attached.

Pointers welcome.
I have been checking elsewhere, but found little more than I have written.
I have the codes in Haynes and another book.

I suspect AIC fault (now fixed) or 02 sensor fault, (now fixed), might be the cause of the check engine light.

So if I can simply reset the light all might be well.
I am sure JimM will know all about this.

I have read about a switched jumper, but want to be 200% sure I am connecting to the correct pin under the seat.

Rbn
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Many thanks.

That lines up with what I have in the manuals here.
But I did not understand it fully, now it is becoming clearer.
I will test the sensor.

Do you know which pin on the green Block of pins (under seat rhs) I can connect a switched jumper to to do a reset on the check light memory.

I see it says pin 3, but there are no numbers there to be sure which is 3, and also I think someone said it could not be done.

This car is not trionic, but does have the red DIC.
It is a non turbo car.
 

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Easiest, no risk method to clear codes and return the ECU to OEM baseline setting (not a bad thing ) is to disconnect the battery, from anything from 3 mins to a half hour.
Only possible downside is that the Radio code will then need re-inputting.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Many thanks, have done that, and it is still there.
Maybe I need a new coolant sensor.
Will test it shortly, and if faulty, replace, maybe I will get better fuel ecomony after doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Haven't tested it yet. I will get to it sometime. For the moment the car goes fine, with a new headlining and a & c pillar panels relined.

Upt to 354,000km now, new timing chain to go in during the winter!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I see I never got back to you.

Problem solved.
Found a wire off, down the back of the block, saw this loose wire when doing a service, saw a terminal, thought, yes that must be where it goes, another coolant sensor.

Put it back on, CEL out.
All good.

Hope this helps someone else.

Robin

Now up to 370,000km, still have not changed timing chains!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Another check light question.

The check light comes on when the car is running.

However, when you first turn the key on, the light comes on, as it should, and goes out, not to come back on again, as I would expect with no faults.

But I clearly have a fault, the car is idling too fast, between 1000, 1500 rpm.

I have cleaned the air mass meter, and the AIC valve.
I have given it a hard run, to the rev limiter, "to burn anything off" the O2 sensor, this worked with a similar fault before.
It also surges at say 70 kph in 4th gear, it is fine at 100kph.

I am wondering if it could be a failed or failing O2 sensor.

Plugs are fine in a visual check, about 20,000km use.

Robin
 

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StilL here? just looked in here out of Nostalgia. and Surprise it's old home week :)
Erm.. 20k on a set of plugs seems as some kinda frugal.. for a Saab at least :)
Does the 93 not have obd1 even ? So a reader etc can be plugged in? Dunno, I haven't had a 93 for a ~decade.
Failing that, a generic O2 sensor is cheapish. Could be a rascal to remove though. Also possible to fit one of those dorman (?) under the o2 'foolers' but one needs remove the sensor and they are affordable but not free.. so pretty well a wash type bodge.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Many thanks, some of us "older models" still exist.

Well, since I am being frugal, I guess I could break out and replace the plugs.
Can't hurt!
Then as you kind of confirm, replace the O2 sensor.

Yes, has Tech 1, (OBD1) plugs, 2 under the right side front seat (drivers side in NZ).

Strange thing is, it was running fine, till I parked it up, (18 months) because the clutch master cylinder failed.
Why so long, it is car number 6 on my list and decided to wait a while and use some other cars, including my 92 C900 vert!

I don't know about an O2 "fooler"

Will go hunting.



Many thanks,
thanks for dropping in.

Robin
 

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Dorman; Plug 'non fouler' https://www.amazon.ca/Dorman-42009-Spark-Plug-Non-Fouler/dp/B000CO91FY
A typ fitment for those who modify their sensor burdened vehicles.. rather than try to avoid an 02 replacement
Does work but.. it's 15$ and a Generic o2 sensor is often affordable
Plus one still has the struggle to remove a too long in situ sensor... soo... Maybe not a full featured Bodge. Have heard tell of sensors being 'cleaned' an oxy /acet flame heatup
Possible that the Sensor may have grown furry during it's dormancy
I typically swap out my plugs at 10000 kms or less.
Albeit, I years ago bought a supply of appropriate NGK's when they were 1$ each. Unlikely a current price, I suspect..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Great.
Yes, to the sensor "failing in storage" growing furry.
It was in an open shed with a cover on, and we are only 10km from the sea.
Dampish air here.

Many thanks


Robin
 
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