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Occasionally, my check engine light will come on in my 2000 saab 9-5. The codes are for misfire and knock in some or all cylinders. And sometimes, a code for the crankshaft position sensor comes up. I've replaced the sensor and it still gives that code.

Even with all of those codes, it runs perfectly. I just really don't like the presence of the check engine light. I've noticed that the check engine light will disappear after a lot of highway driving and it'll show up almost every time it takes longer than usual to start up. It never takes more than 5 seconds of cranking to start.

I've swapped the DIC, CPS, and spark plugs have around 15,000 miles. The codes will still show up. The only thing that comes to mind is that my muffler is so rusted that it might as well not be there. It's pretty loud. The rest of the exhaust system is intact. Or maybe the spark plugs I put in aren't exactly the best for my car. I can't remember what kind I put in. I think the brand is NGK.

Has anyone experienced a problem like this? Any suggestions about what to look for?
 

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Post ALL the codes you are seeing,it will give a better indication of your issue/s..And it will enable us to point you to the problem..
 

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YES....there are no "ignition wires" in these cars. The Direct Ignition Cassette is essentially a CDI ignition with 4 coils that hook directly the plugs.

I have done quite a bit or research on the DIC and found some interesting things.

For one, the system feeds 80 volts to the plugs at all time that the plugs are not firing. this reads the ionization of the exhaust charge in the cylinder and therefor the computer knows if the plug fired and when.

For this to work you need to use ONLY the recommended spark plug.....NO CHEATING HERE!!!

If your DIC is not in 100% perfect shape it will record misfires in the ECU. these misfires have to do with the ionization checks between firing pulses......You may not get a CEL, and the car may run just fine......but it may be recording missfires.

Recently on my 2000 9-5 Red Aero wagon project i was trying to pass smog to get it registered.......in CA they just plug into the OBD II jack and look for codes. It would not pass because of misfire codes as discussed above. I swapped DICs with my son's Aero and ran the tech 2 on it. No missfires on this one.

I ran it 200 miles and brought it back for smog and it passed.

And I NEVER got an CEL during this whole time.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have 2 Saabs. I drive one and I use the other for parts. The parts car is a 1999 9-5. That's the source of my part swapping. That car never threw any codes.

I was very busy yesterday, but I'll take a look and post the codes today.

What kind of spark plugs am I supposed to have exactly? Maybe that's it then.

Thanks for all of your help guys.
 

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Occasionally, my check engine light will come on in my 2000 saab 9-5. The codes are for misfire and knock in some or all cylinders. And sometimes, a code for the crankshaft position sensor comes up. I've replaced the sensor and it still gives that code.

Even with all of those codes, it runs perfectly. I just really don't like the presence of the check engine light. I've noticed that the check engine light will disappear after a lot of highway driving and it'll show up almost every time it takes longer than usual to start up. It never takes more than 5 seconds of cranking to start.

I've swapped the DIC, CPS, and spark plugs have around 15,000 miles. The codes will still show up. The only thing that comes to mind is that my muffler is so rusted that it might as well not be there. It's pretty loud. The rest of the exhaust system is intact. Or maybe the spark plugs I put in aren't exactly the best for my car. I can't remember what kind I put in. I think the brand is NGK.

Has anyone experienced a problem like this? Any suggestions about what to look for?
I have the same basic CEL issues, and it comes on, then resets, then comes on again. I just had the codes red and it said knock on cyl 3&$, and crankcase sensor. What did you find out in your case?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here are the codes that I got this morning:

P0340 (camshaft position sensor)
Car has never failed me to start up and run. Just takes up to 5 seconds sometimes.

P1312 (knock in cylinders 1 and 2)
P1334 (knock in cylinders 3 and 4)
Car runs great

P1460 (immobilizer activated)
Something's wrong with something and I don't care to fix it lol. Pressing the unlock button on my remote with the key in the ignition bypasses the immobilizer every time.

Sometimes there will be codes for misfire and throttle body. The car doesn't run differently with those codes.

So I'm think it could be my spark plugs. The DIC shouldn't be the issue since it didn't give me any codes with my other Saab. And my parts car didn't give codes with my 2000 Saab's DIC either.
 

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Here are the codes that I got this morning:

P0340 (camshaft position sensor)
Car has never failed me to start up and run. Just takes up to 5 seconds sometimes.
At the minimum, I would try to loosen the Torx bolt that holds the CPS. This could be a roadside fix if the bolt can be removed easily--and you have a new CPS on hand, of course.

I would not leave this until it doesn't work at all, and turns out the bolt is seized/stripped.

P1460 (immobilizer activated)
Something's wrong with something and I don't care to fix it lol. Pressing the unlock button on my remote with the key in the ignition bypasses the immobilizer every time.
Again, that "bypass" is the emergency procedure. You are now one remote failure from being stranded. I would not care to live that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Edt,

Both CSP sensors give me this code while it didn't give me any codes on the parts car.

You have a good point about the immobilizer. Maybe I'll look into it.
 

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Edt,

Both CSP sensors give me this code while it didn't give me any codes on the parts car.

You have a good point about the immobilizer. Maybe I'll look into it.
Are you getting KEY NOT ACCEPTED on SID?

Has ECU, TWICE, or instrument panel been replaced?

WIS has some troubleshooting procedures; Tech II would be useful, and may be necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Are you getting KEY NOT ACCEPTED on SID?

Has ECU, TWICE, or instrument panel been replaced?

WIS has some troubleshooting procedures; Tech II would be useful, and may be necessary.
Yes, the SID says key not accepted. The ECU, Instrument cluster, and TWICE have not been replaced. At first, it would sometimes accept the key, but as time went, it stopped accepting it always.

And the fun part is that i only have one set of keys.
 

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The immobilizer problem may be caused by a faulty transponder reader. It sits on top of the ignition switch, under the cover that surrounds the key cylinder. They are known to fail and are easy to replace.

The transponders in the keys are pretty durable.
 

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The car doesn't have ignition wires.
.
Yeah, I wasn't sure and then I learned like hours after saying that, that there were no wires, and the plugs are somehow attached to the underside of the tool holder..... I have also been wondering where the plugs were, but not looking very hard for them....Now I guess I know that as well! :eek:
 

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Yeah, I wasn't sure and then I learned like hours after saying that, that there were no wires, and the plugs are somehow attached to the underside of the tool holder..... I have also been wondering where the plugs were, but not looking very hard for them....Now I guess I know that as well! :eek:
Don't hesitate to get in there and look under the DIC at the plugs. Carefully pry and slide the DIC connector, remove the DIC, remove and inspect the plugs and maybe replace them with the recommended NGK. Others have chastised me for saying "Search is your friend" but this site has so much history concerning problems and solutions that have been answered many times in the past.

Many of us have found the solution for 99% of SAAB repairs and problems and posted our results.
 

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Yeah... I am sure that will happen. It could maybe use a tune-up and look around with the DIC off. Just being careful so as not to open a can of worms that didn't have to be opened up... I did think about itbut have not looked regarding how to re-seal it once I take it off. I am sure I am getting there, just trying not to be in too big of a hurry...
 

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Yes, the SID says key not accepted. The ECU, Instrument cluster, and TWICE have not been replaced. At first, it would sometimes accept the key, but as time went, it stopped accepting it always.

And the fun part is that i only have one set of keys.
Do you have the key with the remote in the head, or a separate banana fob? Hard to tell from your description.

If it's remote in the head, I believe that you should be able to program keys and remotes. So then you just get a spare key remote module or two and program them. You need a Tech II for that, though.

If it's the banana remote, someone who's dealt with those hopefully can add details. They are also found in junkyards, but a lot rarer.
 
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