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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Check engine light only came on in the past month or so. It is intermittent and will come and go on a day to day basis. Longest it has stayed on is 2 days. Lately it will even go into LIMP home mode; which ABSOLUTELY SUCKS! Car is a 2010 9-3 2.0T.

Car has had the following symptoms and they have gotten worse as time has passed. Started noticing it in mid-October when it started cooling off (Massachusetts). Around 2,000 to 3,000 RPM when the car would reach mid-boost, it would start to fluctuate (if I mash on the pedal at that point, it will goto FULL boost quickly without hesitation) and keep bouncing slightly lower causing the car to feel like it was surging for a second at a time (almost like hiccups).

The car is sending codes P1681 and P2135. P1681 has to do with an internal fault in the ECU. P2135 has to do with the TPS (throttle position sensor) and voltages being out of spec. Thus far I have done the following to try and remediate the situation: Re-gapped spark plugs, Cleaned throttle body; inspected vacuum lines for failure (there were none); ran a full tank of premium with a bottle of Chevron Techron additive, and a bottle of dry gas. These items haven't fixed the problem.

What I have read is that this could be one of the following..vacuum line failure, bad motor in TPS (missing teeth), battery acid leaking on wiring harness under battery tray, a re-wiring job where extra wire was added on the harness to the TPS (I heard this is only on 2003 models; could be wrong) and thats all I know of.

I havent checked UNDER the battery tray...but I looked at the bottom inside the battery enclosure and there was nothing at the bottom it was factory clean. There are no vacuum leaks. Don't know about the re-wiring. The one thing I did hear is the throttle body seemed to make several noises on startup that sounded like the flap moving but with crunching and whirring involved. It moves with resistance but smoothly when I cleaned it.

I have read that a new throttle body will MOST likely resolve the issue. I also read a new ECU will. I find the ECU not being the issue though. Car only has 88k miles.

Your thoughts are appreciated. Thank you all.


Ryan Taylor
2010 Saab 9-3 2.0T
88k miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
One More Thing

Recently, passed two weeks or so the car hasn't fully heated up or kept heated up while driving. It sometimes stays a hair under (not normal) while on the way to work (13 miles and 20 minutes). It also sometimes will be fully heated and then start dropping. Don't know what would cause this. It normally goes back to 9 o clock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Any Ideas? I am getting desparate

I have checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the throttle body and plugs. In addition, I cleaned ALL of the electrical connections at the throttle body and ECU. This made the CEL stay off 3 days.

The idle isn't as smooth as usual either.

One thing too, is usually when the cel light comes on it will be in Limp Home Mode. However, sometimes before it is restarted it will then have full boost in first and second before restarting. Other times after a few restarts I will have full boost. Usually it throws the ECU code first, P1681.

Any thoughts? I'm getting pissed off? Can I get a used ECU and just pay the dealer to refresh it with the most up to date software...how much does that cost? An hour of labor? Thank you everyone!


Ryan
 

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Seems to me like a bad throttle body. Easiest way would be to swap
the throttle body from another vehicle and see if it's gonna work.
I don't think you have an issue with the ECU.
 

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Ecu.

I have the same thing happening to mine right now. I've been told the same thing about it being the throttle body sensor out of place etc etc. I have had issues with the ECU before and I know for sure that is not the problem because the ecu would throw off different codes than that.. if you have or DO get it fixed please let me know, i'd really like to know the outcome so I know what to expect!
 

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I have the same thing happening to mine right now. I've been told the same thing about it being the throttle body sensor out of place etc etc. I have had issues with the ECU before and I know for sure that is not the problem because the ecu would throw off different codes than that.. if you have or DO get it fixed please let me know, i'd really like to know the outcome so I know what to expect!
I'd buy a used TB and put it in.
 

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Did any of you get to the bottom of this? I'm experiencing this same problem and bought a used throttle body but the problem came right back on a short test run. It's very frustrating. My car also dies when I rev it to 3000RPM when it's idling.
 

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Check on 8-pin TB connector female pins. Take a paper clip, file down to .6mm and check to see if female connectors will take a hold of it. Small interruptions on these circuits can cause these codes.
 

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Check on 8-pin TB connector female pins. Take a paper clip, file down to .6mm and check to see if female connectors will take a hold of it. Small interruptions on these circuits can cause these codes.
I'm starting to believe the problem is from the connector since it started after taking it off but I'm not 100% positive yet. I slid the small sized paper clip in connector holes being careful not to make them bigger and it held tight. I cleared the coded after that and the car ran normal with no problems until I took off my negative terminal to see if the problem was really solved. To my dismay the CEL came right on when I connected the negative terminal.;oops:
 

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I'm starting to believe the problem is from the connector since it started after taking it off but I'm not 100% positive yet. I slid the small sized paper clip in connector holes being careful not to make them bigger and it held tight. I cleared the coded after that and the car ran normal with no problems until I took off my negative terminal to see if the problem was really solved. To my dismay the CEL came right on when I connected the negative terminal.;oops:
And what code came up then?
 

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I purchased two used throttle bodies and the same codes came back. And just to rule out the throttle pedal, I replaced that too but nothing changed. The same codes came back on.
 

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Same problem

Has anyone gotten to the bottom of this? I have the exact same issue (P1681 and P2135 on and off, limp home, studdering, etc.) and the dealer is suggesting it's the ECU.

They say it's a design flaw with the ECU sitting so close to the engine—it heats up and damages it. Thoughts? I also was tempted to replace TB but am glad I read this forum first.

The ECUs go for a cool $700—anyone have a used one?

__

2009 Saab 9-3 2.0T XWD, 72K
 

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Has anyone gotten to the bottom of this? I have the exact same issue (P1681 and P2135 on and off, limp home, studdering, etc.) and the dealer is suggesting it's the ECU.

They say it's a design flaw with the ECU sitting so close to the engine—it heats up and damages it. Thoughts? I also was tempted to replace TB but am glad I read this forum first.

The ECUs go for a cool $700—anyone have a used one?

__

2009 Saab 9-3 2.0T XWD, 72K
Check the classifieds here and other Saab forums, eBay also usually has a few, car-part.com is another place.

Check the Tech2 sub forum for possibility of a member near by who has one that might be able to save you some $.
 

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p1681 and p2135

hello saab folks
need somehelp. I got these two codes on my saab 2004 9-3 linear 2.ot and they some and goes. But today it remains after i turned off the car multiple times. Once i used the method to completely depressed the throttle before turning on the car and the car was good for atleast 3 weeks no codes at all. Now i dont know what to do as i have put like $2000 last month on this car already by changing brakes,rotors,calipers and front exhaust pipe. and bit more of a stuff. Help me and put me in some direction.
thank you:confused:
 

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Anyone having luck with these two codes? I get them with surging when the temp falls below 35. Between 35-45 I just surging. From 25 and below codes continuously pop up. So I am finding it is external temperature related. It does not matter whether the engine is warmed up or not. How could this be temperature related??
 

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Anyone having luck with these two codes? I get them with surging when the temp falls below 35. Between 35-45 I just surging. From 25 and below codes continuously pop up. So I am finding it is external temperature related. It does not matter whether the engine is warmed up or not. How could this be temperature related??

I am finding this to be a temperature sensitive issue as well. I find that cleaning the connections with connection cleaner and making sure the connections are tight helps most. I really think this is also related to water/ice in the connections. Just wondering if anyone else has tried anything to prevent icing or moisture build up in the connectors and had success? That's my next exploratory remedy, unless someone has better ideas?

HRich
 
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