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OG93
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Discussion Starter #1
Back story and every possible piece of relevant info:

I bought this 9-3 back in 2010 with the head the trunk for $600 no service history. Found out way later it’s a 12 owner 4 dealer car! Did a valve job, then the abs control module, then the clutch went, then the water pump. In 2013 a chunk of a dryer flew out of the back of a truck and I managed to sustain some damage to my drivers short shaft cv (never replaced causes mild vibration), at which time I parked it and it sat for 5 years. 2017 I bought a parts car (parts car radiator, turbo, starter, oil cooler, p/s lines, innercooler, ac line(ac never refilled) and resurrected it.

Since then I have chased front end noise and have replaced control arms, front struts, strut mounts and bearings, wheel bearings, steering rack bushings, tie rods, pcv update, cps, whindshield, pan dropped, new head bolts (still chasing an oil leak though), valve cover cleaned, wheels/tires, and other misc.

PRESENT DAY:
I’m about to change out the upper chain guide in the valve cover as that appears to be making noise now. When I removed the belt to find the upper chain guide noise some pulley noise went away and I have discovered some in/out play in the p/s pump with some fluid on the shaft(old dirty), extremely small amount of water pump pulley play. Like not enough to get on video (again pump was new 2012 but then sat for 5 years), and the tensioner pulley has play. All pulleys turn smoothly by hand.

How much play is allowed in any of these pulleys? If no up and down play is present in the p/s pulley is there anything to worry about with the in/out play? Could the ac being dry cause a rattle even though I never turn it on? I’ve read somewhere there is a short belt ac delete mod, but I haven’t looked into it yet.

I have video of the play and the car running with and without the belt, but I’m not sure how to upload them yet. I’ll see what I can do.

I am also hearing acceleration rattle occasionally. Sounds like metal rings jingling. Like something’s loose. Still the front end creak after basically a complete front end! And there is what I’m thinking is bpv noise, and my car whines when I turn left if the blower is on, but I haven’t gotten there yet.

Any help would be appreciated. It’d be nice to be running healthy. Seems like there is always another thing with this car.

Thanks.
 

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I did not find any specs in WIS, but I don't think there should be any in/out play on any of the pulleys.

Also, for any idler pulleys, they should actually feel a bit sticky when you turn them. Any of those that spin freely are out of grease and/or the seals are shot.

If you are losing power steering or coolant fluids, you should change the respective pumps.

I had the shaft seal leak on my PS pump, and it made a mess (and the serpentine belt went a week later).
 

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OG93
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Discussion Starter #3
Okay. Thanks. I found my parts car p/s pump, and it also had slow shaft in out play, but no wobble. From what I have found online it seems like $80 for a few companies I’ve never heard of, or an acdelco for 150. I’m going to give a good look over the car for anything else then tear into it.
 

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The pump is a completely standard Saginaw type 2 pump, which GM used on tons of cars. The only real differences between them are whether or not the holes are threaded, and what thread they use (SAE vs. metric). Most will come without pulleys, and you'll need to install your existing one on the new pump. You can rent a pulley installation tool from most auto parts stores.
 

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It looks like they're getting pretty expensive on RockAuto now. They're all about $115. A used one might not be a bad option, and then you don't have to worry about swapping the pulley.
 

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If the other PS pump looks pretty clean, I might just install it and see how it works. You're risking a bit of PS fluid and the work of installing and bleeding the system.

Alternatively, I"d look for a good used unit from a junkyard.
 

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OG93
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Discussion Starter #8
I think I’ve decided to change out the tensioner/idler and figure out the short belt to delete for the ac, as well as the upper chain guide. This will hopefully isolate any noise to water and p/s. It appears the parts car pump is just the same problem but 20000 less miles. It may buy me a little time before a decision has to be made.

I think I’m in the market for another parts car. This ones about used up and a friend is taking it for scrap soon.
 

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The short belt # is 6PK1805 or 1815 the 15 puts a little less pressure on the tensioner cause it's just a little longer.
side note does the parts car have a good wood grain dash panel, I could be interested before it heads to the scrapper.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for part#. That saves me some time.

Both mine and the parts car dashes are trashed. I think I’m going to strip one and do a custom paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just got my parts in the mail. It appears that the tensioner has play from the factory, which I now think is possibly the id of the bearing being slightly bigger than the bolt used to hold it on the tensioner. I bought the INA from fcpeuro, same as the factory dayco. There is a little more drag in the bearing, other than that it appears the same. I’m going to call and see what they say.

On another note, if I install the new tensioner I noticed there is a pin. Does it matter when I pull it?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I got dayco on the phone and did a little research. Dayco has no specs on the play, but said the bolt is small. That’s it. The pulleys that you can buy without the tensioner comes with the washer and a carriage bolt. Seems that that’s where play would exist, and continue to get worse from.

Does anyone know of a different pulley out there? It seems everything I have found is reboxed dayco.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Also, just now I recieved my power steering pump (rockauto, bbb industries) and it has in/out shaft play the same as my current pump.
 

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So I got dayco on the phone and did a little research. Dayco has no specs on the play, but said the bolt is small. That’s it. The pulleys that you can buy without the tensioner comes with the washer and a carriage bolt. Seems that that’s where play would exist, and continue to get worse from.

Does anyone know of a different pulley out there? It seems everything I have found is reboxed dayco.
How about making up a spacer that fits around the bolt to the bearing and takes up the play?

Are we talking about the upper idler pulley? I had the same complaint with my idler pulley - there's bolt to bearing clearance. The factory way to handle it is to use a depressed center washer that grabs the center of the bearing and hold it tight when it bolts down. I didn't like that so I made up a round spacer that fills the gap from bolt to bearing and stops any movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That’s a good idea. What’d you make the spacer out of?

The upper idler and the tensioner hold the bearings in a similar way from what I gather. I was more speaking of the tensioner. I ended up replacing the idler (because I was there) and the tensioner. I’ve got the old ones to play around with off the car so that’ll be my next project.

I called a dealer and fcp after dayco and both stated the existence of wobble in the tensioner and p/s pump (slight in/out shaft) to be normal. I’m just going to keep an eye on my pump for now.

I broke my pcv check valve while replacing my upper chain guide, so I’m just waiting on that to start it up. That also might have been some of my oil leak. We’ll see. Hopefully the ac delete and all this are the last of these noises.
 

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I had an old aluminum spacer around that I reworked. It was too large in OD so I put it on a bolt and spun it against the grinder wheel. Crude, but effective... bought the OD down to the ID of the pulley bearing Last time I was at the hardware store I looked for something better, but all they had was steel or nylon. Nylon is probably OK for this app since it doesn't spin, just locates, so that might be an option.
 
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