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Discussion Starter #1
hello i have been getting an intermittent battery light flicker on my 93 900turbo. i replaced the brushes and the problem persists. battery measures 13.5 with the car on and 12.5 off revving does not change the voltage reading. re did the connection on the small wire, the ground and power wires have continuity. tried tightening the belts still nothing. took the car to an auto store to have it tested and the battery is fine, the test said bad regulator? i was thinking maybe diodes but he said they tested ok. ordering a junkyard alternator as a last resort but i want to get some advice here before i go through with changing it out. anyone have any ideas as to what else i can test or look at?
 

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I went through this a couple of months ago. My light came on and it stopped charging. I had read bad reports on the quality of rebuilt alternators, so I went to the trouble to get a Bosch rebuild at my local parts store. While it definitely works and solved my charging issue, the alternator is not really made for a SAAB. The hole for the mounting bolt is much larger than the bolt itself, resulting in the alternator being misaligned with the pulleys and cocked to one side as if the alternator bushings are bad (they are fine). The original SAAB unit had a steel sleeve installed to match the bolt and lined up well. Second, the regulator side of the alternator is clocked wrong for a 900. This causes the wiring to be the wrong place.

I suppose that a sleeve could be found, the housing could be re-clocked or the housing could be used from the old alternator. But why should you have to do that with the most expensive rebuild on the market?

This may all be irrelevant, because I was told that the 124X is discontinued. If you do find one make sure it is a SAAB-style unit before you go to the trouble of installing it.

Might be worth testing the wiring for voltage drops as I believe 13.8 volts minimum at the battery would be better. May not fix the flickering light though.
 

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Parts for Bosch alternators are consistent in a given body, so if push comes to shove you can always buy a reman and then swap the guts over. Or, just find a Bosch service center and they can order whatever internal parts are needed and put then in the body you provide.

If a reman is the wrong reman, it's the parts place's screwup. A reman alternator should be exactly the same as factory. I would talk to whomever supplied the incorrect one and have them fix it. That's not right.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
interesting that you say your alternator is crooked because mine is definitely not straight. i could swear that the previous owner said he replaced the alternator (1-2 years ago) before i bought the car. possible i have a now faulty reman unit in.

is it possible to open the alt up and replace the regulator?
 

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Here are both alternators:

268851


Here you can see the mounting hole differences in the casting.

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Clocking differences.

268854


Bosch label.

jvanabra is right about the parts place making it right, but at this point, it is probably easier to just assemble the new parts in the old housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
so you guys are positive the regulator is internal? everyone refers to the brush pack as the regulator
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well after many curse worss i got the alt out of the car. the bushings were shot so it wasnt for nothing, but i dismantled the alt and all i found was a disconnected wire. not sure if that happened while i was popping it apart. the alternator has been replaced before apparently as the unit says remanufactured bosch.

ok so in the photo above can you not see the brush pack screwed on to the back? wouldnt that count as external?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
besides the broken wire i really cant see where the fault is. seems like a waste to ditch it as the bearings are good and the brushes are pretty new looking (10mm+). i will post a picture of the guts when i got home its not working from my phone
 

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"External regulators" are boxes that are bolted to a fender or something. 1970s cars may have had external regulators. Old cars had a brush pack internally (obviously, they have to be) and an external regulator somewhere else. Internal regulators came along in the mid to late '70s. On the Bosch alternator, as Jim indicates, the "brush pack" and the regulator are the same physical part, both internal to the alternator.

There are only three wires on the c900 - the battery, the ground, and the exciter/idiot bulb. All three must be well connected or the whole thing doesn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
hey guys want to update on the solution

i re soldered the four internal wires in the alternator that come from the coil. re-assembled it and put it back in the car with new bushings and everything is working properly! as per my suspicion the old hard bushings were causing a lot of vibration and i think thats was caused the internal wire to break from its solder joint.

and as a note the bosch reman units do indeed have an improper sized mounting hole where the adjustment bolt goes in. needs a sleeve, i used a little bit of aluminum tape wrapped around the bolt to snug it up and prevent it from going cockeyed.

moral of the story keep an eye on ur bushings! thanks guys.
 
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