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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, in my turbo vert i am moving the air cone to the wheel well, relocating the apc, and putting a vent in front of the wheel to draw in cold air. (e.g. IronJoe)

So my dilemma is that damn charcol canister. I am under the understanding that it absorbs fumes from the gas tank, as well as the crank case. And when the vehicle reaches operating temp vents said gases into the intake with a valve.

My question is this: If i were to remove it do i need to worry about venting the gases another way, and would it have any adverse affects to runability (i doubt it but just asking).

Doing this would allow me to ditch the lines running forward from the tank, unless that is, i would just dump said gasses somewhere else (intake perhaps?) Also would i have to worry about any electronic issues regarding the valve on the canister?

Doing this should help flow of air in the wheel well and lose me a few more pounds.

So topic open? who has done it or knows anything about this.

Thanks in advance
Wyeth
 

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Ditch it....no worries, it is one of the first things I pull out....you can either plug the evap line coming from the tank, which will cause some gasses to build up in the tank...and they will blow in your face when you take off the gas cap, no big deal....on my SPG I put a check valve and on the line and fed in into my intake just after my my air mass meter, so any gasses would be fed in to the engine,...on my current car I pulled out the canister, and put a spring loaded check valve that acts like a pressure relief valve on the line, I didn't feed it anywhere, at about 2 psi in the line the check valve pops and "Burps" the tank... into atmosphere, under the hood, I have had it like that for over a year now
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the quick reply, out the window that dude goes :lol:
 

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It is an emmisoins control device, it prevents gas vapors from escaping to the air, but as for anything else, you can chuck it. You can just leave the evap line to dangle, and the gas will escape that way, or plug it, like said above. It's not the greenest thing to do, but the side vents are pretty cool. :D
 

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I like the idea of rerouting the evap line into the intake manifold with a check valve. Letting the tank vent/burp into the atomosphere allows the unburned hydocarbons mix with ozone and sunlight to produce the yellow/brown stuff that causes your eyes to burn and your nose to run. Gives asthmatics fits.


The reroute seems to be an elegant solution to me......:)
 

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RM '92 SPG said:
It's not the greenest thing to do, but the side vents are pretty cool. :D
I think it was widde who was saying that it's useless to put vents there - the wind whips around the edges of the front of the car and actually create a vacuum right there, not pressure to push air in. So air gets sucked out of those vents.
 

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TheRedBaron said:
I think it was widde who was saying that it's useless to put vents there - the wind whips around the edges of the front of the car and actually create a vacuum right there, not pressure to push air in. So air gets sucked out of those vents.


That may be true, but like any intake mod, I bet it sounds neato.

I'm going to ditch my canister too.

I like the idea of the check valve.
 

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TheRedBaron said:
I think it was widde who was saying that it's useless to put vents there - the wind whips around the edges of the front of the car and actually create a vacuum right there, not pressure to push air in. So air gets sucked out of those vents.
that may be so, but if your going fast enough that it would create that kinda vacuum, you'll probably be in or near boost anyway :lol:
 

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Do you think it may be a problem with running an emisions test, taking out the canister. Why did my car run better after I replaced mine?

Dennis
 

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spg1 said:
Do you think it may be a problem with running an emisions test, taking out the canister. Why did my car run better after I replaced mine?

Dennis
It won't effect your car's exhaust emmisions what-so-ever. If it runs better now after it's been replaced, the valve on top of the charcoal canister unit may have been leaking badly casuing a vacuum leak.
 

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Gabby said:
I like the idea of rerouting the evap line into the intake manifold with a check valve. Letting the tank vent/burp into the atomosphere allows the unburned hydocarbons mix with ozone and sunlight to produce the yellow/brown stuff that causes your eyes to burn and your nose to run. Gives asthmatics fits.


The reroute seems to be an elegant solution to me......:)
I don't know why you'd want to ditch the canister, when the engine is idling quite a significant portion of the fuel that is driving the engine comes out of the canister.
 

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There was one more thing that I found with the old one. It was really heavy compaired to the new one. Didn't know if this was fuel that had saturated the canister
 

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Actually only vapor is transplanted from the canister to the intake, and from my experience has no effect on idle...and yes those canisters do get heavier, and the charcoal in them is overwhelmingly potent with fuel if you open one.... and there are two reasons to remove it, 1. To allow or gain space in the left front fender well, such as when you want to put an oil cooler, or air filter, and 2. after 15-20 years of loyal service they fail, and with a turbo that had been tuned and running higher levels of boost they don't always survive, and the check valves in them fails, and then you lose boost, and have a vacuum leak and THEN you idling issues
 
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