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Discussion Starter #21
hmm thanks for that, i might buy some for the guages!
slyvania says that mine should be like the guy at the top, those wedge type bulbs, but my sockets are different

does anyone know any good tutorials about removing the dash to get to the guage lights?
gauges are tough. they have a green film rather than incandescent bulbs with green overlays. it's damn near impossible to remove that green film without damaging anything.

if you can do it, my hat off to you... and be sure to do a write up about it.

the dash comes off rather difficultly. here's how to do it IIRC...

you need to remove: the SID, the radio, the headlight switch.

there are two screws up behind the SID (one upper right, one upper left), one lower and right behind the radio, two up in the shroud for the instrument cluster, one up and to the left behind the headlight switch. 6 total, if i remember right.

you will also need to remove the protective covering over the steering column. 3 t-25 screws on the bottom. the top and bottom pieces come off. turn signal and headlight stalks come off with clips.

once this is out of place, the dash bezel pulls out and up, you have to remove ALL of the switches for the lights on the right, the fasten belts sign, etc.

what you want to avoid is when you remove the heating ducts with the bezel, there is a tube that connects to the bezel then to the duct. DO NOT remove it from the bezel side. if you do, you will be left with a puzzle (seemingly impossible) of getting the vent direction panels back into place.

once the bezel is removed, the cluster comes out with 4 screws, and i believe 3 wire connections in the back.

open up the cluster from the back, removing the ribbon cables and small phillips screws. eventually you will get to the bulb sockets.

in order to get to the green film, you have to further disassemble the
cluster.

hopefully that helps.

good luck!
 

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Don't forget to disconnect the battery before starting (at least on a NG900), otherwise expect an SRS alarm that can only be reset by a TechII. This step is missing on the Platonoff.com site... Ron
 

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I bought some of these lights
5mm-NE05-xHP
LED Color
Blue NEOx-BHP


NeoWedge Instrument SMD LED bulb
NeoWedge series 1 High Power SMD LED Twist Lock Instrument Cluster and Gauge illumination bulb - 6 lumen
Available in 3mm - 4mm - 5mm sizes and two LED colors
Select Size and LED Color
$ 2.29
and B8.5D-xHP Instrument LED bulb for the window control area, because i broke mine while trying to make it work with leds.

im going to use these in the dash because of the brightness and angle of these. I hope they spread the light evenly so i dont have to worry about placement like i have to with my custom ones, and if i have extra ill go back and redo the sid and ACC.

ill let you guys know how well it turns out
 

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Okay received and installed. I miss calculated and didnt order enough :(



i will take more pictures of the innards when i get more bulbs.
p.s. the bulbs are not the same as what i ordered but they fit.

I believe the proper one is "T1.5-xHP Instrument LED bulb" the SMD LED.

so i guess 13 should be enough to do it. I am going to order about 10 more and redo the SID and climate control.

here are more pics.






 

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I like it and I'll probably do it to my car but I think you should keep the needles red for some contrast. That's my two cents, ha if you care :lol:
 

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its possible, but probably very difficult to keep the orange needle orange. I dont want to, but be my guest dude, do it up and write it down to share for others to do

i removed one light(the one that lights info display. and put it where the tach is, so now i have all blue lights, im just waiting for it to get dark out so i can take pics.

EDIT:

here are some pics

i cant seem to get the gas gauge area to glow properly, Im going to add more soon.



and i also added a LED to my cigarette lighter, drilled a hole into the ash tray holder, and now have accent lighting on the mat by the shifter and one in the glove box.

 

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Do you find you're getting 'hot spots' in the gauge cluster at all? What about the SID and the AC controls? Did you add anything more than just the standard amount of bulbs already in them? I've been interested in doing something similar in my vert for awhile as I'd like a sharper, brighter green (actually, I've got leds in the AC control but am finding some of the buttons don't light up as well as others...:nono;)

For reference I used these:

http://superlumination.com/74.htm

(The neo-wedge type c inverted ones near the bottom)

Also, did you do anything about the green film in the cluster?

A count of how many and what type of led you used for each section would probably be very helpful for anyone else thinking about this mod!
 

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sounds like my same goal, but i think i mentioned it in this thread, you might have to use white leds in gauges like the boost gauge since that thing is four colors.
 

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Do you find you're getting 'hot spots' in the gauge cluster at all? What about the SID and the AC controls? Did you add anything more than just the standard amount of bulbs already in them? I've been interested in doing something similar in my vert for awhile as I'd like a sharper, brighter green (actually, I've got leds in the AC control but am finding some of the buttons don't light up as well as others...:nono;)

For reference I used these:

http://superlumination.com/74.htm

(The neo-wedge type c inverted ones near the bottom)

Also, did you do anything about the green film in the cluster?

A count of how many and what type of led you used for each section would probably be very helpful for anyone else thinking about this mod!
"hot spots" being bright in one area? then yes in the SID where the clock is, there must be a border to keep the light from spreading, but im going to redo it with the SMD LEDS to make it all brighter so you cant tell a difference and probably use SMDs on the ACC to brighten everything up also. The guages are simple i didnt take out the film, just used the bright SMD LED (10 but you should prob get 13 for the gas and engine heat).
the SID i couldnt get the buttons to glow, so i just forgot about them, but if you want to do it, there are 8 spots, just get the SMD bulbs and 3 in the ACC.

all in all, 24 pre-made LED socket things.

but like i said before, the bulbs i fit didn't fit easily into the dashboard. They were leds ment for the SID and ACC, the ones i think you need for the gauges (i think because they look like them) are "T1.5-xHP Instrument LED bulb" the SMD LED
they look like


the accent lighting was just a pack of leds i bought that were pre wired with a resistor and black and red wiring. i drilled into the ash tray holder and spliced into the cigg lighter ground, glove box is the same, but spliced into the glove box light ground, and they are controlled by a switch. I also have more in my trunk.

When you say vert, did you mean vent? because the LEDS i initially bought would work fine for that, pre wired and everything.
 

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Hey Byransays!

Does your rheostat still work properly with dimming and brightening the LEDs?

Thanks and everything looks awesome! :p
 

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yeah it dims fine.
I love it, i bet red would look outstanding, but my audi has red, and also my saab is green(im not that festive)
 

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Are these LED's and if so did you switch the direction 180 on the one that doesn't work? Pretty sure that bulb is # 14 on the board. I did an LED post where I logged each socket and identified positive 12v board socket sides here https://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721918. The post bobs and weaves as folks shared some great information.

If the bulb is good check the board socket with voltmeter to see if you are getting 12v on the positive side. If not inspect the board for a crack along the positive or negative trace and also check the pins, connectors and ribbons that attach the two circuit boards when you reassemble. Check the solder joints on the bottom side of the connector sockets as cold joints can crack when you are disconnecting and connecting a bunch of times.
 
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