SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed a reman Bosch alternator. I was stumped by that nasty lower bolt and had to leave town for a few days. Soon as I returned, I was able to remove the old alternator rather easily but could not remember the exact wiring.

There's a black wire from the block about 3 inches to the right of the oil filter. I assumed this to be a ground and attached it to the ground terminal on the back of the alternator.
She started but the battery was draining one volt per second. I moved that connection to the screw which goes into the alt casing and also secures a little black box (don't know what it's for).

Jump started and now not only is the batt. still draining, but the ABS lamp stays on. What have I done here? Only thing I can think of is that I ruined the new alt or the bushings weren't set correctly causing the alt to ground out against the mount.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
OK the wiring is as follows, you have a black/ground wire which is short, about 4 to 5 inches in lenght, it is attaced to the back end of one of the 4 bolts that keeps the alternator casing together, then you have a pair of wires which has a stack-on female conector, which connects to it's partner on the expansion tank side of the alternator next to the +positive leads lug on the alternator


If you want to see after this is done that your alternator is still good or has been damaged, you can use a volt meter, , to the leads of your battery you should be getting a reading of approximatly 14 volts, or another way which is simpler is disconnect the positive lead to the battery while the car is running, if it is good the alternator should and will sustain the voltage needed to keep the car running, if it's not working the car will shut down after unplugging the lead from the battery

Hope this helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,220 Posts
SPG85 said:
disconnect the positive lead to the battery while the car is running
Every shop manual warns that you should never do this to any car with computerized fuel injection, because it can damage the ECU and other electronics:nono; Sure, there's always some smart-aleck who will tell you he did it and had no problems, but why chance it?

The easiest way to check the charging system is to idle the engine with lights, wipers and heater fan on high, then measure voltage at the battery terminals: Should be 14V or more.

The "little black box" is the radio-noise suppressor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the help. I removed the alternator & batt to have tested at the local parts store. Seems I damaged one of the bushings for the alternator during the removal ;oops: (damn bolt);oops: . Luckily the output is fine. Have to wait until Monday to check with my local supplier before ordering from SAABSITE. The battery was down to 320 CCA and neeed a recharge. Also the connector on the green/white wire is corroded
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Finally!!!:p

I removed the two lower bolts for the oil filter mount and loosened the top (I have no strap to just remove the filter) and held it out of the way using a bunggee cord. Removed the top alt bolt and tensioner, the two coolant hoses and loosened the lower alt bolt. Next I removed both hex bolts on the alt mount and the two 13mm top bolt to the A/C compressor mount. Life is soooo much easier this way as I do not have small hands.

After removing the wiring and the lower nut, rotating the alt mount clockwise as much as possible, without removing the compressor mount, the lower bolt will slide right out clearing the firewall.

I installed new bushings and reversed the removal steps to install the new alternator. No more glowing battery light and I now have 13.54 amps on the battery at idle. Thanks for all of your help.

As far as that draining problem, turns out the mechanic I took her to a few weeks back, installed an additional ground for the alt, using red wiring, which I mistaked for a positive connection. (Whew!)

My blower fan had only 2 settings prior to this, on and off. Since replacing the alt., I have all 3 speeds and my A/C even is cooler although I still need a recharge. Know anyone near Orlando who does R-12?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
A/C Recharge

I'm no expert in any area but I think it will cost more to recharge with R12 than to change over to R134. At least that is what a parts store mechanic told me. Thanks for the alternator removal/install info. It took me for ever to remove one from my 88 900S and the degree of my frustration was on par with insanity.
Curt
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top