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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone changed the selector shaft seal with the tranny in the car? Mine is dripping a little so I'll need to do it very soon (One of those things that definitely should have been done with the engine out but it was missed in the mad rush). I'm a little confused about the process and could also use any available hints.

First, any tips for driving the seal? Saab's special tool looks like a standard round driver with a tab on it. They use another special "clamp" tool that looks like it pushes it into place with a bolt against that tab (unless there's a spare tapped hole in the tranny just for this.

The WIS says use the special driver and "clamp" but then says "tap it in". (WIS on-line ref: In-car fitting – 9-3 2002 | SAAB Workshop Information System Online ). I found a reference to a thread here where a former Saab dealer mechanic said they never used the special tool they just used a socket/pipe. Another guy here said to use a socket but always "push it in with a lever, never drive it". I found a TSB from the NG900 that says to use the special driver with no mention of the clamp tool http://www.townsendimports.com/Saab_TSB_Folder/Saab_TSB_pdfs/471_9011.PDF .

It also says to "lock it in 4th with locking pin" and then it says after removing the anchor bolt to "shift into third". I'm assuming they remove the lock pin in order to do that? But why do you shift to 3rd... doesn't the shaft stay in the same place and just/turn or move in/out to shift? Does that just make the shaft effectively shorter so you don't have to push the seal as far? (EDIT: Thinking about this it would make the rod longer not shorter).

Lastly, can you do this from the top? If it's a bottom job, is there enough room on typical jack stands to make this happen?

Thanks,
 

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shift to 4th, lock the trans with a pin, then shift to 3rd would disconnect the linkage from the internals. iirc that's part of how i changed my linkage when the plastic broke. maybe the trans is supposed to stay locked in that position with the linkage out of the way to make seal removal/replacement easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
shift to 4th, lock the trans with a pin, then shift to 3rd would disconnect the linkage from the internals. iirc that's part of how i changed my linkage when the plastic broke. maybe the trans is supposed to stay locked in that position with the linkage out of the way to make seal removal/replacement easier.
Good point... I was thinking they wanted me to manually shift the tranny into 3rd gear. Your idea of moving the shifter makes more sense so that it pulls the linkage off the selector rod. Thx.
 
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