While I had the valve cover off, I took a look at the chain, guides and tensioner. I measured one of the links and it was 3/8" between the pin centers. I took a chain-stretch measurement on the chain between the cam sprockets. The section I measured, if perfect, I think it would be 5.25". It was 1/64" longer. From looking at the parts diagram, I measured approximately a tenth of the chain. If I am correct, I believe the chain has stretched 5/32" overall.
I didn't measure it, but the tensioner looks to be extended beyond the 11mm limit. From looking at it would you guys agree?
From what you can see in the pictures, would you say the rails are OK or need replacing also?
Take the tensioner out and measure it , I couldnt see the tensioner in the pictures , but if I could thats hit n Miss .
You remove the tensioner by first removing the small Hex (12 or 13mm) in the body of the tensioner there is a spring and a small push rod inside that bolt , Be careful to retrieve it all . If you just undo the large hex (27mm) the tensioner will continue to ratchet out along its pawl as you undo , hence the measurement becomes useless.
You should be able to feel the guides with your fingers and visual , heavy wear is indicated by a pair of parrallel tracks worn into the guide .
Some will suggest rolling a chain in , and that is fine , but I prefer to fit an endless chain and do new guides at the same time.
Well, if I was better prepared, I could have made some sort of go-nogo gauge while the cover was off for the tensioner. I just thought someone with more experience would be able to judge the guides by looking at the pins in relation to the side ledge. FWIW, the VC rail was not very grooved but was rock hard.
Well, if I was better prepared, I could have made some sort of go-nogo gauge while the cover was off for the tensioner. I just thought someone with more experience would be able to judge the guides by looking at the pins in relation to the side ledge. FWIW, the VC rail was not very grooved but was rock hard.
Well I didnt see anything that alarmed re in the pics of the chain , but its hard to tell from the photos .
Its not to late to do the tensioner measurement , You dont need a go_no go gauge, and you dont get access to it via the valve cover. You do not need to disturd the VC , just remove the tensioner and measure ( after releasing the spring plunger as described , this is the the best indication you will get of the chain stretch and from there you can basically assume a stretched chain is going to have taken its toll on the guides . The tensioner is on the intake side into the head close the timing chain end ,
I say this as I assuming you dont want to remove the VC again , if you do remove the VC you can get a good look and feel on the guides with the tensioner out .
I didn't think of taking the tensioner out first, as you suggest AUSSIE900, that would have been smart. I did not realize that with the tensioner out, I would be able to inspect the guides also, not just the chain. I was just thinking at the time, that I could measure the stretch like I would do on my road bicycle. Next time, I will check with the Forum before I begin a procedure that I'm not completely sure of. Thank you for your advice.
I didn't think of taking the tensioner out first, as you suggest AUSSIE900, that would have been smart. I did not realize that with the tensioner out, I would be able to inspect the guides also, not just the chain. I was just thinking at the time, that I could measure the stretch like I would do on my road bicycle. Next time, I will check with the Forum before I begin a procedure that I'm not completely sure of. Thank you for your advice.
As I said , if you are concerned its not too late to measure , can be done at any time and not a big process, no need to disturb VC . Its basically something I always do with these cars when they are new to me and history unknown re the chain . Just a peace of mind thing or alternatively a to do list
Yes, it is on my to-do list. I have removed the AC bracket enough times on both cars that its removal has changed from agony to mere mild frustration now that I have a technique. Still very hard on the back, though.
So, everywhere I go, they only offer go fast stuff for 1986+. I have a darling little 1984 8V turbo sedan, and I'd like to add just a bit more oomph to her. I'm not looking to build a Super Saab™ or anything. Maybe boost to 180hp. Just for better freeway speeds. But, it seems I might be barking...
I'm cleaning up a Viggen seat install here, and find myself scratching my head on the wiring. I'd love to get heated seats given the temp here in Alaska. :)
Prior install tapped into the heated seat wiring to power the motors, so I'm looking to properly hook it up this time. I found some...
Saw an ad for this thing on CL, and I was worried it was gonna end up in a junkyard so I drove the 40 miles to tow it home.
And you're like, "Ah, it's a bit faded but not so bad." But, it's pretty bad.
It's absolutely bonkers to me, but someone actually cut off a damaged fender and...
My dad recently visited and we FINALLY got around to replacing the rock hard front brake hoses. We bought all four a year ago, replaced the rears and then were hesitant to do the fronts in fear of mangling the little brass fittings that join the hard lines to the soft lines.
We found a pair of...
In the rebuild of my front-end bingled 2.1 sedan, I've now got to to the point where most of the re-assembly is done, and I'm fitting a spare set of headlights salvaged from another slope-front c900.
I found one of the lights (the RHS one) has a broken adjuster. I note that Bill from Saabits...
SaabCentral forum the most comprehensive Saab resource on the internet. Join our discussions on the Saab 9-3, Saab 9-5, Saab 900, Saab 9000 and all other Saab models, choose your forum.
