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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, like many of you, I was tired of constantly blowing coils. Sure, I can replace the stock coils with OEM Bosch coils, but those are $130-150/each. There are cheaper coils available, even with a lifetime warranty, but they last what ... a few thousand miles on tune? No, I'm not having that anymore. Which leads us to the CBM LS2 Coil Kit.

For those of you that don't know, ParaPat is the brains behind CBM. The quality of the parts I received lives up to what I came to expect perusing these forums. There are two different versions available: the splice-in kit, and the plug-and-play kit. I opted for the latter. All in, I'm VERY happy with how things turned out. No more misfires due to high engine loads, cold-starts, or driving the car on days that end in 'Y'. This thing hauls *** and sounds awesome!

The kit contains ...
  • Coil bracket
  • Custom plug wires
  • Plug-and-play harness
  • Pre-MAF intake pipe
  • All associated hardware
You will also need ...
  • A 3" ID air filter (I used an old 5" AEM Dryflow I had lying around.)
  • LS2 Coils. I used LS2 coils from a ~2002 Silverado 1500 in a junkyard for $10 each, but CBM can supply coils if you need. If you decide to source them yourself, be sure to get used and not new coils, as the updated part number cannot handle boost. The coils I sourced are stamped 19005218, but the part number is D585. Use ONLY used coils that match these part numbers!
  • E16 Torx socket (you can buy a set from Harbor Freight for ~$9)
  • Various sockets (7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm), screwdrivers, gloves, and some decent spare time.
  • You will also need a modified tune to support these coils. JZW has done this for both Wombat and I now, so let him know that you need a tune to support the LS2 coils, and he'll perform his magic.
  • The stock SAI intake tube connects to the pre-MAF intake tube, and the CBM intake does not have a port to plug it in. Either leave it unfiltered, or have JZW disable the SAI CEL and yank the system off when you install the coils. I opted for the latter, though the pics still show it installed. Ignore that.
  • The kit does come with the pre-MAF portion of the CBM Full Metal Intake, but I opted to order the post-MAF portion as well for an additional fee.
  • While you're in there, it might not be a bad idea to install a fresh set of LFR7AIX plugs.
Foreword
None of this is terribly difficult to do, but it's still possible to mess things up if you don't know what you're doing. Just for the sake of reference, I'd rate this as a 4/10 on a difficulty scale. Take your time and you'll be fine. I'll also mention that I'm not going to be providing instructions on how to remove the airbox, intake, or how to remove the stock coils. There are plenty of how-to guides, and I really just don't want to type all that out.


Installation Instructions
  1. Lay out all parts in an open area, being careful not to misplace anything.
  2. Remove the pre-MAF intake ducting, including the stock airbox.
  3. Connect the CBM pre-MAF tube, and use the supplied allen screw to secure it to the upper radiator core support.
  4. Install your 3" air filter.
  5. Remove the engine cover and oil cap.
  6. Disconnect and remove the ignition coils from cylinders 2, 4, & 6.
  7. Disconnect and remove the ECU from the rear of the intake manifold.
  8. Disconnect all remaining sensors, valves, and all necessary plumbing in order to gain access to the rear coils. Again, there are plenty of how-to articles on SC, but I may update this guide at some point to include detailed steps.
  9. Disconnect and remove the ignition coils from cylinders 1, 3 & 5.
  10. Say goodbye to your old coils.
  11. Lay out or hang (my preferred method) all plug wires in order of length. The order of the wires, from shortest to longest, is as follows: 2, 1, 4, 3, 6, 5.
  12. Lay out the included wiring harness. The shortest is for the front bank of cylinders, and the longest for the rear bank. I neglected to get good, quality pictures of the harness and plug wires, but you can make them out in some of my photos.
  13. Disconnect and remove the upper charge pipe from the intake manifold and set aside. You do have to apply some force to get it out of the couplers, so don't forget to disconnect the IAT sensor.
  14. Route the front CBM adapter harness under the power steering hose, making sure that it will not get pinched or chaffed, and connect them to the stock coil harness.
  15. Route the rear CBM adapter harness on the backside of the engine, making sure that it will not chaff, and connect it to the stock coil harness.
  16. Place a hydraulic jack just under the oil pan, and raise the jack just enough to make contact with the pan, but not so much as to raise the engine. The pan is cast, and we're not actually lifting the engine, so you shouldn't need to use a wood board to protect the pan, but I did anyway.
  17. Using an E16 Torx socket, remove the two bolts on the engine mount closest to the front of the car.
  18. Slide the CBM LS2 Coil bracket into place over the holes, and then reinstall the torx bolts.
  19. Tighten the bolts sufficiently. My torque wrench broke just prior to this, so I just applied "enough" force. The bracket is made of aluminum, so there should be little risk of overtightening the bolts. If in doubt, reference the WIS.
  20. Drill out the holes in each of the coils to provide sufficient room for the bolts to slide through without snagging.
  21. Thread one of the supplied nuts to the end of each of the bolts, and slide through the backside of the bracket.
  22. Slide a short spacer onto each of the four bolts.
  23. Slide the first coil on to the leftmost bolts, as viewed from the side.
  24. Slide the second coil onto the centermost bolts.
  25. Slide the third coil onto the rightmost bolts.
  26. Slide the longest two spacers onto the outside bolts, and the shortest spacers on the inner bolts.
  27. Slide the fourth, fifth, and sixth coils onto the bolts in the same order as above.
  28. Place a washer and nut on each bolt, and loosely tighten them. Fingertight is sufficient, as you will have to loosen them when connecting the coil harness.
  29. Apply dielectric grease to each of the coil connectors, and connect them to the coils in the order show in the picture, referencing the coil number written on each plug. You may need to loosed one of the bracket bolts in order to make sufficient room to connect the plug.

  30. Slide the aluminum plug wire rentention brackets over the plug wire boots, and push the rubber boot seal inside the bracket. This seal will rotate 360º, allowing you to reposition the bracket later on.
  31. Feed the plug wires for cyls 2, 4, & 6 under the power steering hose.
  32. Starting with cylinder #6, apply dielectric grease to the plug wire boot and install it. Use the included Allen bolt to secure the bracket into position.
  33. Apply dielectric grease to the coil boot and install over the corresponding coil, using this image as reference.
  34. Repeat the above step with cylinders 4 and 2, then repeat the steps on the rear cylinders.
  35. Once you are satisfied that all wires are routed and connected properly, and that no risk for burning, chaffing or cutting exists, tighten the bolts on the coil bracket to securely fasten all coils into position.
  36. Reinstall the upper charge pipe, making sure to line up the position markings on the couplers with the arrows on the hoses.
  37. Reinstall and reconnect all wires, sensors, and vacuum fittings.
  38. Reinstall the ECU.
  39. Flash the tune you received from JZW, and start the car.
  40. If you performed all steps properly, your car should be running like normal, with the added bonus of being able to handle whatever you could ever want to throw at it.

Other notes
If you decide to order the post-MAF section from CBM as well, be sure to retain your crankcase PCV connector, which is attached to the dipstick. You can use a razor to very carefully remove all the hard vacuum line and create a new vacuum line, retaining the push-on connector and the PCV valve. You will need 6" each of 11/32 and 1/4 (IIRC) vacuum hose (~6" of each, ~$4 total).

 

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Great writeup!
 

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Agreed, superb write-up. Thank you!

Question though - what happens when we can't find the proper used coils anymore?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Agreed, superb write-up. Thank you!

Question though - what happens when we can't find the proper used coils anymore?
Quick edit: the engine these coils I sourced are from is the LM7, not the LS2. Same as LS2 for the most part, but designed for trucks.

Thanks! Running out of used coils is highly unlikely, given the HUGE number of engines that GM produced between 1999 and 2007. That includes:

  • 2002-2005 Escalade
  • 2002-2006 Chevy Avalanche
  • 2003-2007 Chevy Express / GCM Savana
  • 1999-2007 Chevy Silverado 1500
  • 1999-2007 GMC Sierra 1500
  • 2000-2006 Chevy Suburban/GCM Yukon XL
  • 2000-2006 Chevy Tahoe/GCM Yukon
I doubt there will EVER come a time that these aren't available in a junkyard until well past the point that it becomes viable to modify the 9³ SS.

HOWEVER, you can run aftermarket "hot" coils, like Accel or MSD.
 

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Quick edit: the engine these coils I sourced are from is the LM7, not the LS2. Same as LS2 for the most part, but designed for trucks.

Thanks! Running out of used coils is highly unlikely, given the HUGE number of engines that GM produced between 1999 and 2007. That includes:

  • 2002-2005 Escalade
  • 2002-2006 Chevy Avalanche
  • 2003-2007 Chevy Express / GCM Savana
  • 1999-2007 Chevy Silverado 1500
  • 1999-2007 GMC Sierra 1500
  • 2000-2006 Chevy Suburban/GCM Yukon XL
  • 2000-2006 Chevy Tahoe/GCM Yukon
I doubt there will EVER come a time that these aren't available in a junkyard until well past the point that it becomes viable to modify the 9³ SS.

HOWEVER, you can run aftermarket "hot" coils, like Accel or MSD.
Makes sense, thanks for clarifying.
 

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Step 10 is my favorite.
 

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Can you elaborate on this?
Bosch coil that end with 104 are std in our cars. The same part # but ends in 112 are used in higher output applications of our engines such as Caddy so are better suited to tuned engines. Have not had one fail and have set a challenge for anyone to come forward who has. Several threads here about coils.
 

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Bosch coil that end with 104 are std in our cars. The same part # but ends in 112 are used in higher output applications of our engines such as Caddy so are better suited to tuned engines. Have not had one fail and have set a challenge for anyone to come forward who has. Several threads here about coils.
Good to know ;ol;
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Bosch coil that end with 104 are std in our cars. The same part # but ends in 112 are used in higher output applications of our engines such as Caddy so are better suited to tuned engines. Have not had one fail and have set a challenge for anyone to come forward who has. Several threads here about coils.
Yeah I got mixed info on those. Some people said they were solid, others said they're good for a while and then crap out like the 104s. I figure, for the same price, why not get something that will NEVER fail? Plus, they look pretty trick under the hood!
 

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Yeah I got mixed info on those. Some people said they were solid, others said they're good for a while and then crap out like the 104s. I figure, for the same price, why not get something that will NEVER fail? Plus, they look pretty trick under the hood!
Yeah, still looking for those people who have had the 112s fail. Given I am a sample size of only one, bit hard to draw definitive conclusion just from my experience. But for me, they have been they are rock solid.

I can see the benefits from this upgrade if you are going for a mega build. Think I am probably at the limit at what the 112s can handle. I also like the OEM look under the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, still looking for those people who have had the 112s fail. Given I am a sample size of only one, bit hard to draw definitive conclusion just from my experience. But for me, they have been they are rock solid.

I can see the benefits from this upgrade if you are going for a mega build. Think I am probably at the limit at what the 112s can handle. I also like the OEM look under the hood.
Yeah and that's basically why I went this route. The 9³ is going to become the toy car here in a year or two, at which point i'll go nuts with the upgrades, because who cares?
 

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I've been using the cheap ACDelco coils for over 2 years in a tuned V6 myself and still going strong. But I would consider an option like this IF I didn't have to run an open air intake setup.
 

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With this LS2 coil swap is there any codes thrown? I heard that the resistance is different and the ECU reads them as being a bad coil. Sorry if I missed something in the write up about it.
 

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I have yet to be able to get a hold of him for this product amongst others.... Is he no longer selling this product? I've emailed him a couple times and nothing....
 

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He sold his car and bought a Chevy SS. Sorry.
 
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