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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, i have a 96 900SE 2.0 Turbo, 5spd manual. The car cranks, but won't fire. I have a second DI cassette that is brand new, i put it on, and it still didn't start. Anything else i can look at? Is there a way to check the fuel pump? any help is appreciated.

thanks guys,

matt
 

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I hope that you are an accomplished DIY, but, IMO, none of this is really difficult and Saabs can be easy to work on.
Check out you battery and charging system - usually the first step.


Run a lead to the fuel pump directly in order to test it. This will bypass the neutral switch, the CPS, and the relay.
Of course, if the pump works and works well, more tests will be necessary.Bypass just one device and see what happens.
Or you can pull the plugs, examine them, maybe do the compression test ( part of a real service).
Also, do a search the forum for the diagnostics on this problem.
 

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Car mileage?????

At around 100K the fuel pump would be suspect. The CPS also goes at 125-150K

The fuel pump relay also gets bad when the soldering points crack.

you have a 5 speed so no range switch (neutral safety switch) issues
The battery and charging system have nothing to do with that since the car cranks.

Bypass the CPS and pass a wire directly to the fuel pump to test it. If the car runs, test the CPS. The resistance should be 600 +- 50 ohms.

There are several other possibilities but those 3 are the most common causes for the symptoms your car is presenting
 

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If the motor turn over, and if you don't hear the fuel pump running, or the "GOOD" DIC, will the Crank Shaft Position Sensor cause the DIC not to spark? If so, you can take out the DIC and test for spark, and if no spark, then you know it'll probably be the Crank Sensor? I don't know, anyone can correct me here?...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
how hard is it to get at the fuel pump to test out the leads and see if it runs. if the cps is bad, does that cause the car to not run the fuel pump? I'll check these out this week. The car was running fine the night before, parked it, and then the next morning wouldn't start. it cranks great, but won't go.


thanks for the help so far guys.

matt
 

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orange57 said:
how hard is it to get at the fuel pump to test out the leads and see if it runs. if the cps is bad, does that cause the car to not run the fuel pump? I'll check these out this week. The car was running fine the night before, parked it, and then the next morning wouldn't start. it cranks great, but won't go.


thanks for the help so far guys.

matt
You should be able to get to the pump leads by lifting the rear seat cushions, lifting up the carpet flap, removing the plastic cover. If you fish around, you should find two sets of leads; one for the fuel gage and one for the pump. If you disconnect one set, turn the key to "ON", and see if the fuel gage works; if it does, then you got the pump leads. If the gage doesn't work, re-connect and grab the other set of leads. Put a voltmeter accross the set for the pump, and watch for 12 volts when you crank the starter.
 

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I too am having similar problems with my '96 900SE 2.0 turbo 5 speed. Died while driving and now it won't start. Has good fuel pressure at the fuel filter on the engine side, so I suspect the pump is working good and the filter isn't clogged. I've already tried a second DI cassette... no luck there.

Cranks and turns over fine... just won't fire. Any ideas guys?
 

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Orange57, did you find anything out yet? Keep us posted please...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
alright, i did some testing yesterday. I checked fuse 16b, it sees 12v while cranking. Then checked the fuse for the fuel pump, it's good, and it also saw voltage when cranking. Next, i pulled the wires from the top of the fuel pump, also have voltage at the fuel pump. Next i ran wires directly to the pump, nothing, no running of the pump at all. So now i have to track down a pump and will probally get to installing it next weekend. Is there anything else that i shoucld take a look at? Thanks guys,


matt
 

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Leon said:
If the motor turn over, and if you don't hear the fuel pump running, or the "GOOD" DIC, will the Crank Shaft Position Sensor cause the DIC not to spark? If so, you can take out the DIC and test for spark, and if no spark, then you know it'll probably be the Crank Sensor? I don't know, anyone can correct me here?...
To the best of my knowledge, the ignition will always fire, fuel or no fuel.
I think the reason is safety and emissions.
So the CPS emits a signal to the ECU, which in turn, controls the fuel pump.

To test, run power directly to the pump, bypassing everything...
Then, IF the pump is now effective, the suspicion is now directed to the CPS..
Of course, everything else must be good and tested - such as the fuel lines..and the electrical system... and the relays... and the ignition switch.... and the TWICE system.... and the battery......and the cables..
 

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orange57 said:
alright, i did some testing yesterday. I checked fuse 16b, it sees 12v while cranking. Then checked the fuse for the fuel pump, it's good, and it also saw voltage when cranking. Next, i pulled the wires from the top of the fuel pump, also have voltage at the fuel pump. Next i ran wires directly to the pump, nothing, no running of the pump at all. This proves that the pump is a no-go which is fine, but are the wires to that pump good??So now i have to track down a pump and will probally get to installing it next weekend. Is there anything else that i shoucld take a look at? Thanks guys,


matt
The pump is good for 100-150K miles, as is the CPS - these are rough guessiments. The pump is a $800 job at the dealer; $100 or so plus several hours for the advanced DIY. Add another 0.5 for the diagnosis and another 1.0 for cutting the missin' access door...plus another 0.5 for a new fuel filter...

Thru the rumor mill I've heard that GM has developed a new fuel pump, EVAP system, rubber bladder all in one tank sealed assembly, with a limited warranty good for 250,000 miles or ten years, which ever comes first. This is powered by engine vacuum...thats it..Even the fuel filter is inside and sealed.
Our automatic transmission is now "service free" - no in-situ service.
Next will be the light bulbs, replaced with lifetime LEDs..
 

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earthworm said:
The pump is good for 100-150K miles, as is the CPS - these are rough guessiments. The pump is a $800 job at the dealer; $100 or so plus several hours for the advanced DIY. Add another 0.5 for the diagnosis and another 1.0 for cutting the missin' access door...plus another 0.5 for a new fuel filter...

Thru the rumor mill I've heard that GM has developed a new fuel pump, EVAP system, rubber bladder all in one tank sealed assembly, with a limited warranty good for 250,000 miles or ten years, which ever comes first. This is powered by engine vacuum...thats it..Even the fuel filter is inside and sealed.
Our automatic transmission is now "service free" - no in-situ service.
Next will be the light bulbs, replaced with lifetime LEDs..
Actually the dealer charges $1500 to replace the fuel pump but like you said if one does their own work it's $82.51!

http://www.fuelpumps.com/19941998-saab-900-fuel-pump-4-cyl-20l-eng-b204l-efi-turbo-p-3223.html
 

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i just had the same problem going to leave fromlunch over the weekend the car wouldn't start, couldn't even hear the pump prime so i bought a new pump $100 , cut a hole out of the floor and replaced the pump. now it runs fine. if it hadn't been a bad pump i would of had a fit trying to figure out what it was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
earthworm said:
The pump is good for 100-150K miles, as is the CPS - these are rough guessiments.
well, the car has 170K on it, and it's the original. I do agree, i should look at the wires to the pump. I'll do that before i go to put the new pump in.

Thanks guys,

matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well i cut the access hole today, above the pump. I was carefully trying to remove the fuel lines, and snap, the tab for the pressure line breaks off. Well i guess i'm done with this one for now, the car will have to wait untill i can get the special part to hold it in place.
 

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oh man that sucks, when i did mine i broke the end off of the return line, so i took some krazy glue and fixed it. it holds well, but the return line isn't really under much pressure at all. if its just that yellow tab you broke, krazy glue might fix it. its at least worth a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well i put the new pump insert in, finished it up this evening. the car fired right up. so i was releived. Thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated.


matt
 
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