SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here are the particulars:

- 1999 9-3 SE Convertible with 125,000 miles.
- W/in the last year: New DI Cassette, tires
- W/in the last 2 years: New a/c compressor, fan motor, head gasket, tie rods, serpentine belt, amongst other things.

Here's what went wrong:

I drove the car home, everything was fine although I noticed a slightly rough idle. Not enough to cause me concern, just a jump every once in a while. The car ran fine at higher rpms.

The next morning, the car wouldn't start. I immediately suspected the DI Cassette again, but it checks out. Since it is my primary (read that as only) source of transportation I called a tow truck to send to it the mechanic for what I was sure to be another $1000+ bill.

I decided to try to start it once more and heard a familiar buzzing noise when I turned the key on. The engine started and idled fine for about 20 minutes when I shut the car off (idiot). I tried to start it again immediately, with no luck. Now when I turn the key on, there is no buzz and no start.

I went out a bought a new car. So now I have some time to fix this one.

Some in the forum say that if CPS hasn't failed yet at my mileage it will, so I decided to start with that. After an entire day of trying to get the torx bolt out (T-27 just spins and I can't get any leverage with a T-30), I've decided either I'm doing something wrong or the bolt is stripped (I fear the later). So now before I send it to a mechanic to finish the job, I want to be sure it's not my fuel pump, because I do not want to pay $800 for that job.

I checked for fuel on the spark plugs after turning the car over and the plugs appear wet and smell of gas. Also, when I was testing the DI Cassette, there was a strong fuel odor while turning the car over. So I don't think it's the fuel pump, but the lack of buzz is concerning me.

Okay, sorry for the long description but Earthworm always wants as much information as possible and I wanted to be thorough. Here are my questions:

1) Is the buzzing that I'm used to hearing before I start the car the fuel pump? If it is, what could be the cause of it's disappearance beside the obvious of the fuel pump is bad and how do I test for it. Unfortunately, I don't know where everything is located on this car so please provide locations of items along with explanations.

2) The CPS on my car right now is a Bosch. Does anyone know if that is the original? I've had this car since 60K and have never replaced the CPS or I would have replaced the torx bolt with a much better choice. I have a new CPS, I just can't get it on because I can't seem to get the one screw out from underneath the car of above it.

Thank you very much for any help you can give me. I am highly frustrated with this car and am ready to give it back to mother earth.

Cheers,

Mojo :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,876 Posts
Well Earthworm is right all info is helpful :cheesy:

Now, the CPS doesn't seem to be the problem if you can smell fuel at the spark plugs and they're wet. The CPS tells the fuel pump when to fire.

How did you test the DIC?

Are you sure your spark plugs are good?

Any backfires?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
The bolt is a T30, M6, 10mm long shaft, .100 pitch. Same bolt on the NG900 and early 9-3 models. The reason why a T30 bit does not seem to fit, is because of rust inside the torx socket on the head of the bolt.

PartNo : 7971294

Torx bits are designed to bite into the head, IF you have a nice new torx bit with sharp edges, and IF you either dissolve the rust with some BP Blaster, and/or put a socketed bit at the end of an extension, and tap it in (gently) with a hammer. They are designed for that.

The bolt itself should not be rusted, just the head. It is tightened to a very small torque, ~6lb-ft, so once you get the bit into the bolt, it will come out.

1) No, it is from the electronic ignition, or something similar under the hood. No buzz, means the ecu is not even getting as far as attempting ignition.

2) Yes, the original part is Bosch. The torx bolt is not so easy to replace, it is very close to the sensor casing, and if you use a hex-head, most sockets will not fit over it. Difficulty with torx bolts usually comes from the fact that most torx bits are crap.

The fuel pump can be tested with engine and ignition off, just by connecting a wire from the positive battery terminal to the lower terminal of the fuel pump fuse, and flipping up the rear seat so you can hear it run, without the normal engine noise. The fuel pump current can be measured using a meter in series, etc., etc...

On the NG900 turbo, the bolt is hard to get to, but you can make some room by taking out the electric radiator fan, takes only minutes. (not sure if this applies to the 9-3.) Then you have room for a work light, and you can pass a straight extension UNDER the down pipe, and directly to the bolt.


(picture is after removing the radiator fan)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
How did you test the DIC? I followed the procedures on this forum. Pulled the DIC out flipped it upside down, put in new Bosch Plugs, connected to the ground of the battery and had my wife try to start the car. I got a good spark and the cascade of sparks on every spark plug, tested separately of course.

Are you sure your spark plugs are good? Yes, brand new. The old ones worked as well.

Any backfires? No

Thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
PMI Response

PMI thank you so much, I will try your suggestions first thing tomorrow morning. I've been blasting the screw with PB Blaster all day, hopefully that will help. Of course it's about 20 degree out right now, not sure if that will affect the ability of the spray to brake up the rust.

Judging from your awesome picture, the '99 9-3 is similar to the 900, so I'll remove the electric fan tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

Oh, I have brand new Craftsman Torx socket bits too, cost me $40 so I hope they are good. What do you think of a hex hole, like an allen wrench?

Thanks for all the help.

Cheers,

Mojo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
Mojo said:
... What do you think of a hex hole, like an allen wrench?
I think that should work. I was going to try to use a hex bolt there myself, but by the time I realized that was the wrong choice, I did not have another type handy. The bolt is the same size as the three bolts on the underside of the cruise control servo, btw... :cheesy:

I used a small screwdriver (like a jeweler's type), to scrape the rust out of the bolt head, and then the T30 bit seated ok. Once it did, I tapped it in with a hammer. I used the torx bit socket, 6-inch extension and 3/8 drive ratchet. I tapped the extension at the other end with a hammer before attaching the ratchet. It bit into the bolt fairly well, and after that it did not take much effort to take it out at all.

When you take the sensor out, shine a light into the opening, the green o-ring, which is the oil seal, may stay in the hole in the block, and should be taken out b/f you install the new one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Highly Frustrated

Well, I followed PMI's suggestion and was at the torx screw unencombered in no time. Only to have the torx hole stripped. So I decided to drill a hole and extract the screw. After several trips to the hardware store and several broken drill bits, I finally got the extractor in the hole snug enough to extract the screw. Unfortunately, the screw extractor snapped off in the hole. I tried to redrill the hole, only to have my drill bit melt. I guess I got a little too frustrated and put the drill on too fast.

In any case, what was supposed to be a 30 minute to an hour job of replacing the CPS has turned into a 2 day 10+ hour ordeal. Now it's off to the professional for more than what it would have cost originally and minus my too days.

Obviously, in hind sight, I should have had the professionals accomplish what appeared to be a simple task. Also, unfortunately, since I apparently can't even accomplish the simple jobs on this car and I can't afford to have a mechanic fix it every time it breaks, because it breaks so often, I'll have to sell it.

Anybody have any idea what a Saab 9-3SE convert w/125K should go for? For trade in it's only worth about $3,000 I'm told. Better yet, anybody know how to blow up a car without hurting anyone?

Cheers,

Mojo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
Sorry to hear that. I think there have been other people who did the same thing. We've all had our share of mis-adventures here.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top