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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So the story goes -
I was driving in the wet yesterday I put my foot down in 2nd and the car hesitated and almost stalled out. After that it wouldn't idle properly, it was running really rough at about 200rpm and missing all the time, I thought something had broken. I checked all the plugs today and they were black, suggesting the car was running rich. This was confirmed by the fact the car would idle when I pulled a vacuum line off the manifold. So today I leaned off the mixture something like 2 full turns. on a K jet car that is a huge adjustment. I'm thinking somehow something happened to the adjustment screw whether it was some grit or obstruction or something I'm not sure. Really strange, I can't understand how it got so rich after the incident. Anyway I leaned it out and now the car idles and drives great.

Before I adjusted the mixture I was doing some trouble shooting today. I did some quick ignition tests to make sure the coil, ignition amp etc weren't faulty and I found out the coil wires were on backwards.

My dad said that this theoretically shouldn't matter too much, but I put them the way they are supposed to be.

The strangest thing of all now after doing those 2 things, mixture and coil wires the car is super quick, quicker than it has ever been, I don't know if I've just had the mixture way too rich for too long and have just figured it out or if the coil had something to do with it as well, any ideas?

It would make sense if I've had the mixture wrong this whole time, as I've done a lot of changes, gradually fixed more and more vacuum leaks in obscure places and never really changed the mixture because the car would still run ok and it's hard to set K jet without a CO meter....
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Stoked! Just went for another drive and the thing is really performing well. Boost about 1-2mm into the red, then settles back at around 2mm before red (due to APCs taper). It's knocking around 3700 (just isolated flash of the light) and probably remains on about 3mm before the red right up until redline. I'm sure the knock will be completely eliminated with the intercooler I'm going to install in a couple of weeks.

Shame this happened today as I'm really busy with uni and I missed class :x to fix it but the results have made me super happy with my 8vT again!

May have a strange charging/battery problem at the moment too. Hope my $200 battery isn't on it's way out. :(
 

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Stoked!

May have a strange charging/battery problem at the moment too. Hope my $200 battery isn't on it's way out. :(
All sounds great , perhaps time to re consider stock ( with perhaps a 16 v head ) versus the cost and effort of T5.5 ?

Charging ... it is certainly the climate for a declining alternator to raise its head ...
let me guess whilst driving in the last few days ...

Lights .. Yep ..
Demister ... Yep ..
Wipers .. Yep ..
Heater fan probably ..
Throw in short trips ..
Dont know if you run a Volt gauge , but they are a great add on ..

If you do not , then Measure the Voltage at the battery at say 2000 Rpm , make sure you are getting what you are meant to get ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
haha no T5 is still haunting me, I think it will be done. I like the challenge lol

yeah I checked 13.5v at 1200 or so RPM is that enough?

I think the low idle I've had over the last few days plus the starting problems (I did give it a fair crank today trying to get it to run) may have left the battery a little sad as it showed 12.1. I threw it on the 12v charger for 3 hours today so should be better) I'll be keeping the MM in the car to watch the battery and make sure all is good.
 

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haha no T5 is still haunting me, I think it will be done. I like the challenge lol

yeah I checked 13.5v at 1200 or so RPM is that enough?

I think the low idle I've had over the last few days plus the starting problems (I did give it a fair crank today trying to get it to run) may have left the battery a little sad as it showed 12.1. I threw it on the 12v charger for 3 hours today so should be better) I'll be keeping the MM in the car to watch the battery and make sure all is good.
sounds ok ... 13.9 is the spec ..so it may be loosing a bit of grunt or you may have some resistance in your earth strap ( alternator to motor) .

remember that if you have run it down.. it will take some descent trips or a descent charger to bring back up ..

An idea for a bright young lad ... A home charger .... Get an electric motor .. Mount on a frame .. spare Saab alternator .. and Bingo .. You have a regulated ..14v ..80 amp hour charger ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
13.5 at 2000rpm? or idle?

I'll check it again properly! I have a new alt to battery lead and the earths look good. Could I be losing some voltage as my battery is in the boot and the cable is like 4m long?

I have my dads charger, it's a good quality one, 6/12v low/high current charge or whatever it is lol :cheesy: do I want to trickle charge or can Ijust blast it!

I'll go whack it back on the charger for a few more hours .
 

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13.5 at 2000rpm? or idle?

I'll check it again properly! I have a new alt to battery lead and the earths look good. Could I be losing some voltage as my battery is in the boot and the cable is like 4m long?

I have my dads charger, it's a good quality one, 6/12v low/high current charge or whatever it is lol :cheesy: do I want to trickle charge or can Ijust blast it!

I'll go whack it back on the charger for a few more hours .
I believe that Amperage output varies on RPM .. Not voltage ..

That is the RPM will determine how may Amps you throw back in in a given time .

With the car running and a healthy alternator .. Bentley says 14v at the battery.. any revs .
That assumption is the battery in its stock location .
Yes you experience voltage drop based on all sorts of conditions ... some of them being Length , Gauge of cable .. how well exposed to air ..Heat is a killer with voltage drop .. . Why does a battery seem to be flat after trying to crank , then you walk away and come back and start the car half an hour later ?
Voltage drop on a heated cable..
I prefer to trickle .. but others may prefer rapid .. Personally I think bubbling the acid is a bad move .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I believe that Amperage output varies on RPM .. Not voltage ..

That is the RPM will determine how may Amps you throw back in in a given time .

With the car running and a healthy alternator .. Bentley says 14v at the battery.. any revs .
That assumption is the battery in its stock location .
Yes you experience voltage drop based on all sorts of conditions ... some of them being Length , Gauge of cable .. how well exposed to air ..Heat is a killer with voltage drop .. . Why does a battery seem to be flat after trying to crank , then you walk away and come back and start the car half an hour later ?
Voltage drop on a heated cable..
I prefer to trickle .. but others may prefer rapid .. Personally I think bubbling the acid is a bad move .
I just noticed my boot is taking in water, the battery earth is on the bottom of the boot, do you think that a bad battery earth would mean charging problems or no?

Would worn alternator components mean lower charging voltage?
 

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I just noticed my boot is taking in water, the battery earth is on the bottom of the boot, do you think that a bad battery earth would mean charging problems or no?

Would worn alternator components mean lower charging voltage?

Bad earths will create issues ... the negative in DC (neutral in AC ) is as important as the positive in DC .. (Active in AC )
500, 000 Volts AC .. 12 volts DC .. same theory.. it has to have a return circuit of equal capability ( lack of resistance ) .. If you restrict the return ( earth ) you restrict the flow .. (positive)

Having said that ... WATER in itself will not create an issue .. LOL>> Do not try this in the bath :D

Measure your voltage at the live terminal behind the starter .. ( red cable from alternator to starter ) compare that to your battery readings ... that will show you if its simply voltage drop over distance ... which it most likely is .
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
good idea! Thanks aussie I will check that out tomorrow as well..
 

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Our cars can be notoriously crappy in the wet due to degraded ignition electrics. I experienced the same this weekend. Swapped off the HT leads and it ran perfect.
Also, were adjusting the mixture with a dwell meter hooked up? because there is no other way to do it properly. And the smallest increments make a pretty huge difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Jetman, no lambda, so adjustment only requires a CO meter right? which I don't have either lol :p it's hard to adjust without one...

I originally thought the issue arose from water on the HT leads or something similar which probably did happen to cause the initial rough running but it didn't explain the ridiculously rich mixture. I think what has happened is I have slowly solved 2-3 sneaky vacuum leaks over the last few weeks and left the mixture as is (now rich) I think there were a number of factors all contributing to reduced performance, and the wet thing was the last straw. I was able to hit them all on the head today by doing some investigating! To be honest I haven't touched anything mechanical on my car for about 4 months, it hasn't had a single thing go wrong except today I noticed water keeps getting into the boot. Not sure where from, it's annoying the heck out of me. I don't want a rusty boot floor.

Glad it's all solved though, thing is running better than ever!

I know small increments make a huge difference, that's why I was totally horrified when it took 2 full turns anticlockwise on the mixture screw to get the idle up where it should be. I don't understand I don't really think the mixture could change THAT much. I think it must have gradually been winding itself in or something lol :S, mixture is definitely good now, car has a zippy feeling I don't think I've ever felt, (would still love to get it adjusted with CO meter, don't want to pay a mechanic $50 bucks for something that would take 5 mins)
 

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I've been enjoying the bit of cut and thrust with my new 900.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My car finally feels quick... I bet it must be close to factory running condition in terms of the power it makes. I checked compression and I was pleasantly suprised 165 160 155 160
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
:evil::evil::evil::evil::evil: Ok I obviously spoke too soon

My car is not fixed.

battery test at supercheap auto
battery voltage 12.46
s loaded volts 10.30v
battery ohms 4.7mj

alternator test at 1000rpm
charge volts 13.42
charge amps -1.2 amps
ripple volts 13.6mV

this appears ok but the battery wellness indicator is black instead of green meaning discharged so I don't know what the electronic battery tester is trying to tell me.

I'm going to put it on the charger and see if the car behaves better for a short time, I drove it this morning it ran great for about 5 minutes then returned to this state.

It must be electrical, a mechanical problem cannot disappear and return like this.

Any ideas would be much appreciated, I could just about get the damn thing crushed I have no patience for this.
 

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How old is the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
less than two years its a 575cca century battery, it cost me $220 and if it's faulty I'll kill someone. The supercheap tests say it's ok, I am throwing it on charge and if it fixes the problem I know the problem lies within my charging system. I'm so mad I spent 5 hours screwing around with this yesterday. I have no idea what to look into, if it's electric then it's purely ignition as there is no electrical control of fuelling, but I'm not sure how to 100% rule out fuel. I don't think it's a fuelling problem because it ran well yesterday, a fuel problem cant' just spontaneously fix itself as far as I know.. I had the car on charge yesty so perhaps thats why. perhaps something has come loose I have no idea.. :S
 

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The battery should well within it's prime life.........
Not knowing the 8v wiring basics, from here it does seem to portray it might be a branch of the system, say a relay or bulkhead connection that is a bit corroded and becomes volatile when moist.
If you are seeing ~13.0 to 13.5 at the battery whenever the car is running, the alternator would look to be sound.
Is there a relay for Ignition System power routing?

This was the Ignition Lock relay on the 5dr last month............
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Checked the resistance of the coil lead.

If my $5 multi meter is correct it read at 7000 ohms. Bentley says 500-1500, so I can assume my coil lead is toast?

In all honesty, I replaced all the ignition components 20k ago except the leads because they were bougicord. But the bougicord coil lead had a torn boot, so I used another 2nd hand cheap coil lead I had lying around. I'll probably just try a coil lead off a mates car so I'm not wasting my time then go down to the shops and grab a new one.
 

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Does seem a little high.........even allowing for up to 10% tolerance on the meter sampling....
Well worth a try for a few dollars....
 
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