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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My car has been acting wonky lately. I've had the limp mode issue a few times in the past over the 12 years I've owned my Aero (like less than 5...), but for the past month or two it's been steadily getting worse and now it goes into limp mode (+ CEL) almost every day, or at least every time I use the car. Sometimes the engine check light comes on when it goes in limp mode, sometimes not immediately... sometimes the limp mode resolves itself after a few minutes, over times it only resolves itself when I clear the CEL code.

I've had the following error codes: P2138 (throttle/pedal position sensor / voltage), P2122 (same but circuit low input), P0101 (mass or volume air flow circuit range/performance, got this one a lot too, actually I think I get this one the most), and also P0300 (random/multiple cylinder misfire, also got this one quite a bit).

Car symptoms are of course the wonky acceleration when in limp mode, but it seems to me that when I start it, the idle RPMs are also kind of on the high side (it's cold these days but it seems they're higher than usual), or sometimes the engine runs a bit rough upon starting (usually runs super smooth), the engine has even flat-out stopped yesterday when I pulled over in my daughter's friend's driveway to drop her off (restarted right away but still, never happened before), gas mileage has taken a bit of a nosedive, and sometimes when I accelerate the engine feels like it cuts off for a split second every now and then. Car has 158k miles. Although it's probably unrelated, I also feel like the clutch is slipping a bit: if I'm in any gear over than first, any firm acceleration is usually followed by a quick spike in RPMs before they go back down and the car actually starts accelerating. I'm guessing the clutch is going... but it's still working.

Anyway, it looks like my symptoms point to either a dirty or failing (more likely considering the mileage) Mass Air Flow sensor. I'd just like to be a little more sure before I order a new one... could the throttle body be involved as well? I've ready that the P2122 code might be caused by a faulty connection in the throttle body but I never bothered to investigate... For sure I'll clean it asap see if it helps, I've found some instructions here.

Thanks in advance for any help. My son's learning to drive on it, he's living the dream, he's been foaming at the mouth to drive the car for years and I promised him he'd inherit it when he has his license so I want to keep it in good working shape. :-D

Edit: I've cleaned the MAF sensor just now, we'll see if it gets better or if the problem keeps happening...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Bumping this, sorry. I had the P0101 error code again yesterday. So I cleared the error code and I tested my MAF sensor just now and I think it might have gone bad. I identified the supply voltage and ground pins on the connector, and then I measured the voltage at the signal pin in several conditions:

Connector unplugged from the sensor: 5V (on the 'car' side of the connector).
Connector plugged, engine not started: 2.63V.
Engine started, idle: 2.59V.
Engine started, accelerating/higher rpms: not moving, staying at 2.59V.

I would have expected the voltage to change measurably when accelerating, isn't that correct? So sensor might be malfunctioning? Should I wait until the engine light comes back on and check again then?
 

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No,a holed/damaged IC can also cause a p0101 code..It's not just the piping it's all the clips aswell,also check the short length of pipe which connects the metal pipe(runs underneath the sump) to the turbo..
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
OK. I've been having a kind of sucking/swooshing noise (reported in another thread but now I realize it might be connected to this) lately when I accelerate, now I wonder if it could be part of the problem... anyway, thank you very much for your suggestions, I will take a look over the week-end.

So I need to brace myself to remove the front bumper in case I need to take a good look at the IC itself in case nothing else looks obviously wrong, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So far I haven't smelled gas so crossing fingers that's hopefully not it, but thanks for the suggestion, I'll keep an eye on it. I'll inspect the hoses tomorrow morning and see what I find...
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Well that was a quick and easy diagnostic (assuming nothing else is leaking of course)... the air intake hose is broken. It got brittle and snapped at the connection to the intake manifold (that's what it plugs into, right?). I was hoping I could salvage it temporarily to reconnect it, but the part of the hose that goes inside that rubber collar broke off too short so it won't stay in there. Just ordered a used one on eBay for $37 total (inc. shipping), that's not too horrible... I guess I've been driving like this for a while unfortunately, I hope it's not too bad for the engine...

Thanks Aerojon, I was going to replace what seems like a good MAF sensor (>.<).

Additional question: there is a tiny bit of oil in the intake manifold intake chamber (visible in the picture below), is that normal? Or is it a sign the gasket is going bad?

271010

271011
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update: I received the replacement air intake hose yesterday (P/N 12802029 if it helps, shouldn't cost more than ~$40 on eBay used, I paid ~$35) and installed it immediately. So far so good, no CEL or limp mode business (before replacement it'd always do it within 10 miles/15 minutes of driving every time so I think things are looking pretty good), no more swooshing noise when I accelerate... I'm an idiot, when I started having this issue I found some posts online about it being caused by a bad contact in a connector, so I immediately assumed that's what it was... I should have checked the obvious stuff like hoses first anyway... thanks Aerojon!
 

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a little oil is normal. a lot is usually bad pvc
 
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