[AggieJ]

Yesterday when I got into my car, the "gearbox malfunctioning" message was on my display but my car was still running ok. A little later it just died on me at a stopsign. I tried to start it back up but it wouldn't start. I finally pulled the battery cable to reset the computer. My car then started and I got it home. I hooked it up to an ODBII reader and it was giving me P0725 (engine speed sensor circuit malfunction). After digging through the forums and not finding much other than "get a firmware upgrade", I cleared the code and my car seemed fine.

Until today. I was driving and again my car died (multiple times). It always seems to do it when I have been running fine and then decelerate. Once it died at a stopsign but restarted immediately. The other two times it died coming into parking lots and didn't restart without some intervention.

So the codes today were a little different. It was showing "traction control failure" on my display but there were 5 codes instead of just the one. After I cleared the codes it would either work work immediately or work after resetting the computer via battery pull.

I now have no trust that it's not going to fail again. I'm wondering if it's truly a sensor issue or some other problem. The folks at my dealership aren't the brightest and I'm hesitant to take it to them because their general mode of operation is remove-and-replace large components (motor, tranny, etc).

My codes now:
P0725 Like before, engine speed sensor circuit malfunction
P0337 Crankshaft position sensor A circuit low input
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0337 again
P0700 again

Any ideas? Again, when the car is running, it seems to be tip-top. Right up until it dies.

I have a hard time believing that a software glitch would pop up at 60k miles. I did have my oil changed at the dealership about 10 days ago...I'm going to ask them if they did any computer work but I don't think they touched it.

2006 9-3 2.0T, 60k miles (new motor at 50k), 5-spd auto

 

[Diggs]

Random unrelated errors almost always = dying battery. The random dying could also mean a poor ground somewhere.

 

[AggieJ]

I'll give the battery/connections a second look. I replaced the battery about 18 months ago so I'm guessing that it's still good. Car has never had any trouble turning over, etc. But a loose connection could be an issue. I've checked the + terminal (that's the one I removed to reset things) but admittedly not the negative side. If it's a loose ground connection somewhere outside of the battery terminal it's going to be a lot harder to find.

 

[AggieJ]

The ground connection is solid. I checked around to see if I could find any loose wires and could not (not to say there aren't any...I just couldn't find them). Through experience, I've learned a few more things about the symptoms but still no solution:

- The car does not always throw diagnostic codes. In fact, the last 3 times that it has died it did not throw any codes at all.
- The car always dies either at idle or at low speeds. Most usually it dies either at a stopsign/stoplight or when I am pulling in to a parking lot.
- If I reset the computer by pulling the battery cable, sometimes it will start up immediately. Sometimes, however, it requires that I both reset the computer and then wait 5-10 minutes.
- On two occasions, after resetting the computer the SID said I was low on fuel even though the tank is full (and the gauge showed full). On both of those occasions, if I rolled the windows up they immediately rolled back down by themself. Very strange behavior. On next car restart, those issues go away.

I talked to the dealer on the phone to see if they did anything to the computer when they changed my oil a few weeks ago and they said no (except for clearing the service date through the dash buttons). I described the symptoms to them and they said that maybe it's an issue with the throttle body. They didn't sound too confident, though.

I'm now borrowing a friend's car just so I have something reliable to get me to/from work. It's pretty sad when a 1989 Corolla is more dependable than a 2006 Saab...

 

[ctrlz]

How does your speedometer perform? If your speedometer dies when the car starts to give you trouble it is likely a speed sensor problem, and I would start by replacing that module.

You could have one of the other sensors like crankshaft also giving you speed sensor codes, but that has never been reported by members here who actually had crankshaft sensor problems, etc.

Speed sensor failure is a major problem, and will typically put the car into limp home mode.

Speed sensors are typically pretty easy to replace if you are a decent driveway mechanic.

 

[BadBrains]

Just to add to what ctrlz said above (good advice), be sure first that your alternator is charging at the correct voltage, 14.4V. Try to tap on it and see if the reading varies.

Also, check the power wire on the starter for corrosion. The main power from the alternator (red wire) travels through the starter to the battery and from the starter (yellow wire) to the underhood electrical center on the left side of the engine bay. You mentioned new motor at 50k. This means that many connections were removed/installed and moved, bent, twisted etc. Be sure to check the starting/charging curcuits before going any further. These symptoms really push me in the direction of bad power/ground connections.

pm me for the wiring diagrams if you need them.

 

[AggieJ]

I did some more debugging on this today. I've narrowed down the specific instances that cause it to die with and without codes as well as how to make it recover. I still don't have it down to the point that I have a solution but at least I've taken out a little of the guesswork. I appreciate everyone's help so far. Given everything I learned to today, I can more simply restate my problem now:

Problem: My car dies at idle and very low RPM. Not always. It doesn't run rough at low RPMs at all...just sometimes it dies.

Secondary Problem: Once it dies, it won't restart unless I wait 10-15 minutes. The starter will turn the motor all day long but it won't fire unless I wait.

I won't get any codes back from the car unless I happen to be stepping/pumping the gas pedal when it dies or when I'm trying to start it before having waited long enough.

You guys have more experience with this than I do so I'll double check the battery/charging circuit although it would seem weird to me that it would be the issue since I have plenty of battery power to have the starter turn the motor over (and over and over...). I'll at least check those connections/voltages and then maybe have an auto parts store give the battery a check.

I've also been digging around looking for loose wires/connections but haven't found a smoking gun just yet.

I'll keep you posted if I find anything for sure.

 

[tonyav]

I did some more debugging on this today. I've narrowed down the specific instances that cause it to die with and without codes as well as how to make it recover. I still don't have it down to the point that I have a solution but at least I've taken out a little of the guesswork. I appreciate everyone's help so far. Given everything I learned to today, I can more simply restate my problem now:

Problem: My car dies at idle and very low RPM. Not always. It doesn't run rough at low RPMs at all...just sometimes it dies.

Secondary Problem: Once it dies, it won't restart unless I wait 10-15 minutes. The starter will turn the motor all day long but it won't fire unless I wait.

I won't get any codes back from the car unless I happen to be stepping/pumping the gas pedal when it dies or when I'm trying to start it before having waited long enough.

You guys have more experience with this than I do so I'll double check the battery/charging circuit although it would seem weird to me that it would be the issue since I have plenty of battery power to have the starter turn the motor over (and over and over...). I'll at least check those connections/voltages and then maybe have an auto parts store give the battery a check.

I've also been digging around looking for loose wires/connections but haven't found a smoking gun just yet.

I'll keep you posted if I find anything for sure.

This problem could also be caused by a failing fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator.

 

[ena1981]

Same problem gearbox malfunction, traction control failure, car won't start

Hi I own a 2006 Saab 9-3 2.0T, and I'm wondering if you found a solution to your problem. My car was running fine until it stalled while idling at the gas station, car would not start and I got the gearbox malfunction and traction control failure. Took it to my mechanic and they could not find any codes with the tech II. They cleaned the sensors and changed the tranny fluid (fluid looked ok, a bit dark but not cloudy). Drove the car for about 320 km and while on the highway I got the message again for traction control failure and gearbox malfunction. I pulled over and car would not start, took a good 5 - 10 minutes for the car to fire up. Car runs fine but still have this issue. I have been researching the forum and have read numerous reports about coolant leaking into the transmission but this was a problem for 2003-2004, haven't heard anything for 2006. Your thread is the only car from 2006 that I found with a problem like mine. Please help!!! Any info would be very much appreciated. Sorry for the long thread!

 

[ena1981]

For those out there trying to figure out this problem. Here is an update on my car that may help you or not. I took the car to the dealer since previously my mechanic could not pull any codes from the car. Long story short, the dealer got the codes P0725 and P0337. The codes indicated a faulty crankshaft position sensor. I had it replaced and currently running fine. I will see how it goes in the coming weeks. Keeping my fingers crossed this has fixed the problem. Total cost 222 for the sensor and 224 for labour. Total approx 500 with taxes. Warranty is 1 year or 20 000km.

 

[Antonio B]

P0700 & P0337 Code on my 2005 Saab 9-3 Aero

After reading the entire thread i have checked everything that was suggested.
My car was randomly not starting up for about 3 moths unless I disconnected the battery.
I have recently about 2 weeks ago replace the battery. 2 days later it died and now it turns over but wont start. I get P0700 and P0337 code. I have replace the CPS but same symptom, turns over but wont start . Checked Fuel pressure and test out ok.
Any help would really appreciate it.


Thank you.

 

[Diggs]

Make sure CPS is fully seated. Make sure old oring came out. Might need to lube it and connector to ensure good fit and connectivity. These things are made pretty cheaply. Did you inspect the old one? Any odd marks on it?