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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I have a beloved 96 9000 Aero. The central door locking system has not worked in many a year. The left rear door unlock latch broke a year or so ago leaving the door permanently locked. Now just today the right rear door unlock tab also broke leaving both door locked. It is going to be very difficult to remove either door panel with the doors closed. Does anyone know if those flat bars that go down by the window from the outside to unlock door will work with a Saab?

Thanks,

Tom
Cape Cod
 

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If you believe the locking motors in the doors work, it may be easier to just fix the locking system under the steering column. There's a fair chance it could work again by touching it up with a soldering iron. If not, you can jump the wiring to force the motor to unlock.

The locking tab in the door connects to a plastic pivot point to convert the up/down motion of the tab, to a front/rear motion leading back to the latch. If this plastic pivot pops out, the tab will just flop around with no effect. If you can lift it out of the door, you can use pliers to push the connecting bar front/back to unlock the door. Once you get the card off, the plastic pivot can be replaced with a more durable bolt and a couple of nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Twinsen,

What took so long to reply?

Thank you so much for the quick reply. I believe the solenoids work because on RARE occasion when I lock the drivers door with the key they all would lock. Naturally when I got back to the can only the drivers door would unlock. I am quite handy with a soldering gun/iron. I will look under the column and see if I can find it. That would be the best solution. Will report back
Thank you again,

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is the locking module a black plastic box about 4 1/2" by 2 1/2"?
I took it out and opened it up and with a magnafying glass and all the solder joints looked fine.

Do you know what pins to short out, if indeed this is it to force the doors to unlock?

Thanks again,

Tom
 

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I'll be able to look the pins up later. The dimensions sound about right. You won't find much with a magnifying glass. I just hit all the joints with a hot iron and fresh solder and mine doesn't flake anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I removed the board and resoldered most of the connections. reinstalled just the board sans case and it worked and I was able to unlock the doors. Put it in the case and reinstalled it and it didn't work. Wound up just removing the box. Removed the door panel and see what you meant about the plastic dohinkeys breaking. I will do the bolt and a couple of nuts tomorrow. Thank you again for the advice.

Tom
 

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Removed the door panel and see what you meant about the plastic dohinkeys breaking. I will do the bolt and a couple of nuts tomorrow. Thank you again for the advice.

Tom
Good luck getting the panel back on and the up/down button back thru the hole.
I was told scotch tape or drill a small hole at base of plastic and thread wire thru door card slot
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I am not there yet.....have to get some bolts and nuts to repair the pivot points of the locking mechanism. You know every time I delve into my Aero for work on something new I am amazed at how well our cars were built. The door padding and insulation on the inside beats any American car I have had to do inner door work on.

Himself
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK,
All done and both door lock ltches work as smooth as silk. Geting the up/down plug through was no problem at all. As a matter of fact the whole job went very smooth.

I wish I could find a used locking module somewhere as all the soleniods work fine.

Tom
 

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You're right about the excellent build quality. Strangely enough, the inside of my door cards have a nice vanilla scent to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just as a quick followup. When working on the doors I must have unlocked the hatch turning on the light. Next day when I went out to finish up work on the doors the battery was dead. No problem, charged it up. Now whenever I start the car it cranks for 2 or so seconds whereas it used to start right away. Could the killing of the battery/resetting the computer have had an effect on starting? I have driven it about 175 miles and numerous starts but still longer cranking than normal.

Tom
 

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Maybe the battery has been weakened. Does the starter have the same rhythm or is it slower?

I read that Trionic applies trim values to the cold start map, so it's possible that your ECU is relearning the fastest way to start the engine. I would not worry.
 

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You might want to read this. I'm not sure if it will reset your pre-ignition sequence but it's all I have seen concerning quick starting times:

Pre-Injection
When the ignition is switched on both the main relay and the fuel pump relay operate for a few seconds. As soon as the engine control module senses that the crankshaft has begun to rotate, coolant temperature dependent fuel injection takes place through the 4 injectors simultaneously. This enables short starting times to be achieved.

If the engine is started and shortly afterwards switched off again, a fresh pre-injection sequence will be obtained if 45 seconds is allowed to elapse with the ignition switched off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the reply. Its still doing it after a few weeks now. Just cranks for 2 -3 seconds which it never did before the battery was allowed to get depleated. I may start a new thread on this and see if someone has any ideas.

Tom
 
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