[Salva76]

Hello to all members of the comunity, sorry for my English, I’ll try to explain my problem as good as I can.

A friend of mine is selling me his Saab 900 turbo 1996, but there are some things that I can’t figure out how to fix.

1. There are two hoses coming out from what I think is the throttle, and I have no idea where they go to

2. When you turn the key on, the lights on the dashboard fade almost instantly and all the info displayed too. If you give it little hits, everything comes back, but only for a couple of minutes. If you stop the car, next time al the lights and gauges won’t show any info again.

3. The gas gauge never works, not even when the dashboard does. So I have no clue where to fix it.

4. I’ve checked all the fuses and are working fine.

5. There is a strange noise coming out from the red piece that read “Direct Ignition” on top of the engine, a sound like a lack of grease or lubrication. Not to strong but audible.

6. Also have problems when starting the car for the first time in the morning. When you accelerate it and lose the pedal, it stalls and stop. I guess the throttle can be dirt, so that is my next move, to check it.

7. I fixed the sid following the advices you gave, and using a hot glue gun (my first attempt to do it!!), now all pixels are back :cheesy:

As a Volvo owner, I know that Saab is a very good car for me, I would like to keep it but honestly… I don’t have a clue how to solve the problems the car has. I guess fixing them should be easy, but I’m not familiar with the car.

I would really appreciate any help you experts can give me, thanks in advance!

 

['97 Saab SE Turbo]

I certainly can't help on everything, but it sure sounds like the instrument cluster has a bad solder joint. On my car's instrument cluster, just the turbo guage and the speedometer didn't work. I bought one on eBay for $50 and it fixed all the display problems.

The gas guage level sensor is in the gas tank with the fuel pump. There are two connectors beneath the rear seat. One connector is for the fuel pump and the other is for the fuel level sensor. If you disconnect the fuel level connector and short the 2 wires, you should see the fuel guage go to full. If you don't see that, then it's just another problem with the instrument cluster.

The noise from the Direct Injection unit could be the "after burn" cycle that cleans the spark plugs when you turn off the engine. I have never heard it, but I understand that this happens for 5 seconds or so when the engine is stopped.

Let us know how you progress... Ron

 

[rawill]

I certainly can't help on everything, but it sure sounds like the instrument cluster has a bad solder joint.

The noise from the Direct Injection unit could be the "after burn" cycle that cleans the spark plugs when you turn off the engine. I have never heard it, but I understand that this happens for 5 seconds or so when the engine is stopped.

Re 5: this is normal.
The DIC is a Direct Ignition cassette, and it does make a 'buzzing" noise for about 5 seconds after the engine is shut off. This is what it is supposed to do. As was correctly described above, to clean the plugs. It is a very fancy bit of equipment, and must always have the right plugs, (NGK only!).

All your electrical issues are puzzling but are likely to be some faulty connection.
Here is hoping some expert comes along to guide you.

R 1:Just checked your pic again. I think I can see a fitting coming from the cam cover that has no hoses attached, I think the nipple is missing, not easy to tell from your photo.

I think it is highly likely that these unattached hoses are part of the (pcv) positive crankcase ventilation system, and at least one of the hoses should be attached to the nipple fitting that should be there. If it is then one of those hoses, a very thin one, has a 1 way valve attached to stop boost pressure going into the crankcase. The other is a larger hose that is also part of that system. I can only take photos of my 9000 or my C900 to show you what I mean.

The photo is from my 97 9000 2.3lpt auto. I think yours is a 2.0.
The nipples on the DIC are from a Saab 95 and a C900. You can see the nipple in the cam cover with the hoses fitted, with the white one way valve which is essential.

Re 6: I would check the air mass meter, although I have never had an issue with mine I have read that others have and that they need cleaned. Do a search on the 9000 forum. Someone was talking about this very recently, or it was on the C900 forum.

 

[Salva76]

Thanks guys!

About the noise, as the engine reaches the normal temperature it becomes less audible. Haven't heard it after turning it off.

Ron:
Tomorrow I will search the connectors and try what you mentioned. And maybe this weekend I will try to pull out the instrument cluster.

Rawill:
My mistake, the car is a 96 saab 3-door, 5 speed manual and a 2.0
Make sense that one of the hoses goes under the inlet manifold as it was lying there, but not connected. Tomorrow I will try to find where it was connected.

And thanks for the tip about the plugs... I'm sure they are not NGK! just a couple of questions:

why they should be NGK?
the air mass meter can be cleaned or it has to be replaced?


Thanks again guys, I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel!

 

[N8theGr8]

The left hose in the picture goes to the the fuel pressure regulator located at the end of the fuel rail. The right hose in the picture goes to your PCV (pressure control valve) located on the left back (in the picture) of the valve cover.

 

[N8theGr8]

Re 5: this is normal.
The DIC is a Direct Ignition cassette, and it does make a 'buzzing" noise for about 5 seconds after the engine is shut off. This is what it is supposed to do. As was correctly described above, to clean the plugs. It is a very fancy bit of equipment, and must always have the right plugs, (NGK only!).

All your electrical issues are puzzling but are likely to be some faulty connection.
Here is hoping some expert comes along to guide you.

R 1:Just checked your pic again. I think I can see a fitting coming from the cam cover that has no hoses attached, I think the nipple is missing, not easy to tell from your photo.

I think it is highly likely that these unattached hoses are part of the (pcv) positive crankcase ventilation system, and at least one of the hoses should be attached to the nipple fitting that should be there. If it is then one of those hoses, a very thin one, has a 1 way valve attached to stop boost pressure going into the crankcase. The other is a larger hose that is also part of that system. I can only take photos of my 9000 or my C900 to show you what I mean.

The photo is from my 97 9000 2.3lpt auto. I think yours is a 2.0.
The nipples on the DIC are from a Saab 95 and a C900. You can see the nipple in the cam cover with the hoses fitted, with the white one way valve which is essential.

Re 6: I would check the air mass meter, although I have never had an issue with mine I have read that others have and that they need cleaned. Do a search on the 9000 forum. Someone was talking about this very recently, or it was on the C900 forum.

Be careful, as the hoses coming from the throttle body aren't the same in a 2.3 as they are in a 2.0T.

 

[rawill]

The left hose in the picture goes to the the fuel pressure regulator located at the end of the fuel rail. The right hose in the picture goes to your PCV (pressure control valve) located on the left back (in the picture) of the valve cover.

Great here is someone that has the right kind of car that knows.

That will probably fix your accelerator issues.

Please let us know.

 

[rawill]

Thanks guys!

About the noise, as the engine reaches the normal temperature it becomes less audible. Haven't heard it after turning it off.

Rawill:
My mistake, the car is a 96 saab 3-door, 5 speed manual and a 2.0
Make sense that one of the hoses goes under the inlet manifold as it was lying there, but not connected. Tomorrow I will try to find where it was connected.

And thanks for the tip about the plugs... I'm sure they are not NGK! just a couple of questions:

why they should be NGK?
the air mass meter can be cleaned or it has to be replaced?

First, be patient and keep at it. There is lots of help on here.
A 3 door, well worth having!
It does seem like your car needs some TLC!

Plugs, the DI cassette was designed around the NGK resistor plugs.
Non resistor plugs can/will kill the DI according to some people.

The car fires on every stroke when it starts, then the DI senses what is happening in the cylinder (if it has resistor plugs) and then it goes into the normal firing order. (I am repeating what the experts from Saab have said on these forums.) I understand the DI is also part of the anti knock system. All the X Saab people say only use the correct NGK resistor plugs and the above is why they say this.

I understand the AMM can be cleaned, I have never done it, but someone on here said that you can get some kind of spray/solvent designed for the purpose.

Get those hoses sorted and lets see what difference that makes. I imagine it will be noticeable.

OK - it is not the DI noise I am talking about, hard to say, but I would remove the plugs, make sure they are correct and/or replace them anyway unless they are the right kind and are clearly not very old. When you put it back smear some dielectric grease on the plug boots, and the end of the plugs. It helps the connections and people on here are always advising to do this. Also check the multiplug to the DI. Perhaps there is a bad connection there, maybe some contact spray there would make sure the connections are good.

Lastly if you know another person with one of these cars, or one with a red DI, maybe you could swop it for a test and see if that changes the noise.

Finally enjoy your car!

 

['97 Saab SE Turbo]

When you put the DIC back on, use a little blue (weakest) Loctite to keep the screws from vibrating out... Ron

 

[cotton42090]

Perhaps the noise he his hearing is the timing chain?

Salva, how many miles are on the car?

 

['97 Saab SE Turbo]

Real good point, but I hope not... Ron

 

[Salva76]

I'm back!

rawill: just checked but couldn't find any fittings like in the pic. On the cam there is only one and already has a hose in it. But it isn't a T o Y fitting, only for one hose. I attached a pic of it.

And thanks for the explanation about the plugs, I didn't know that. I will remove the plugs and if they are not NGK I will replace them.

I will search in the forum about the AMM cleaning and also will use some contact spray for the multiplug to the DI. Unfortunately, I don't know anybody with the same car... too bad.


N8theGr8: thanks!
The PVC is the one on the pic with a circle on it?
Tomorrow I will search the fuel pressure regulator

I felt like my first day at school... so much to learn about Saab, but I will not give up!

Thanks again guys, I'll be back to inform you any advance I make.

 

[rawill]

I'm back!
rawill: just checked but couldn't find any fittings like in the pic. On the cam there is only one and already has a hose in it. But it isn't a T o Y fitting, only for one hose. I attached a pic of it.

Aha - I have learnt something too. The 2.0 is different from mine so my pics will be no help at all. sorry to confuse you.

A comment was made about the noise being a timing/balance chain.

It is possible - especially if oil changes have been left a long time.
They are noisier when cold, although it is hard to tell from your description what it is.

You can check the timing chain though. There are threads on here about this. It involves removing the timing chain tensioner and measuring the gap. When you find the thread it will be very clear. If the gap is 11mm or more then the timing chain is due for replacement.

Keep reading and learning. It is all good if you are a DIYer on cars.

 

[Salva76]

Hi to all, I have some news...

Last weekend was a little bit hard for me, I could only worked on the car on sunday.

First: I checked the plugs, they are NGK BCPR5ES. There was lot of black stuff in the gap and around the base. I'll check the clearence tomorrow.

Tried to fix the instrument cluster but seems somebody already had been playing with it. So I just cleaned, gave a closer look if there was any bad solder joint, but found nothing. Put it back and now it seems to be working better (maybe just my ilusions).

N8theGr8:
The left hose in the picture goes to the the fuel pressure regulator located at the end of the fuel rail. The right hose in the picture goes to your PCV (pressure control valve) located on the left back (in the picture) of the valve cover.

Couldn't find any plug for the hose on the preassure regulator. Maybe it wasn't the preassure regulator what I found (I don't really know where is that thing).

cotton42090:
Perhaps the noise he his hearing is the timing chain?
Salva, how many miles are on the car?

I was thinking that too... the car is 116,000 more less.

rawill:
First, be patient and keep at it. There is lots of help on here.
A 3 door, well worth having! It does seem like your car needs some TLC!

Plugs, the DI cassette was designed around the NGK resistor plugs.
Non resistor plugs can/will kill the DI according to some people.

I understand the AMM can be cleaned, I have never done it, but someone on here said that you can get some kind of spray/solvent designed for the purpose.

Get those hoses sorted and lets see what difference that makes. I imagine it will be noticeable.

rawill, thanks for your help, you have been really patience with me, I really apreciatte that!

Do you know where I can find any pics of the air mass meter, the fuel pressure regulator and the engine of this car? It will help me a lot to have a view of what I'm supposed to search ;oops:

I'll keep reading more, still is kind of puzzle to me fixing this car. And many thanks to all you guys for your help.

 

[rawill]

I will have think when I can turn my brain on.

Last 2 days have been 7.30 starts and 1.00 am and 2.00 am finishes.

Maybe tomorrow will be the same!

But I can't complain, only had 5 days work since Christmas!

 

[fphillips]

Hi to all, I have some news...

Last weekend was a little bit hard for me, I could only worked on the car on sunday.

First: I checked the plugs, they are NGK BCPR5ES. There was lot of black stuff in the gap and around the base. I'll check the clearence tomorrow.

Tried to fix the instrument cluster but seems somebody already had been playing with it. So I just cleaned, gave a closer look if there was any bad solder joint, but found nothing. Put it back and now it seems to be working better (maybe just my ilusions).


Couldn't find any plug for the hose on the preassure regulator. Maybe it wasn't the preassure regulator what I found (I don't really know where is that thing).


I was thinking that too... the car is 116,000 more less.


rawill, thanks for your help, you have been really patience with me, I really apreciatte that!

Do you know where I can find any pics of the air mass meter, the fuel pressure regulator and the engine of this car? It will help me a lot to have a view of what I'm supposed to search ;oops:

I'll keep reading more, still is kind of puzzle to me fixing this car. And many thanks to all you guys for your help.

The 2.0T engines do not use an air mass meter. They use an intake air temp sensor and a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. Neither of these need to be cleaned.

The fuel pressure regulator is on the end of the fuel rail that feeds the fuel injectors. It is about 2" in diameter and has a connection for a vacuum line.

 

[hkayssi]

Perhaps the noise he his hearing is the timing chain?

Salva, how many miles are on the car?

Either that or the tensionner pulley. The fact the noise goes after the car warms up makes me think oil starvation.

 

[Salva76]

Thanks to all for your help, I've working on the car but only at weekends, and had found several little things I've been fixing. Here is what I have done so far:

Fixed the instrument cluster by re soldering the resistance 13 (R13), unfortunately, the gas gauge and turbo gauge are not working.

Fixed the left hose by plugging it to the fuel pressure regulator.

Aligned the shifter as told in here.

Fixed the dimmer of the dashboard.

Cleaned the APC boost control valve and the Turbo bypass valve, but still no luck with the boost gouge showing some pressure.

Cleaned the idle air control valve (IAC) as idle speed was terrible. However, motor keeps stalling, accelerating and de-accelerating randomly. I guess I didn't install it in the right position, so maybe somebody can give me some advice.

The valve has an arrow on it. Right now, as shown on pic 1, the arrow is pointing to the throttle body… Is it in the correct position or should I turn it backwards?

Cleaned the acc sensor in dash. But here I found something unusual. At the right side panel of the console, there is a silver thing with a cable, but the other extreme of the cable is loose. Where it should be plugged to?

Well, that for the moment, I really enjoy driving this beaty. Thanks in advance for your help! :cheesy:

 

[Salva76]

Hi guys,

I don't know why my last reply was not published. Ok, I've been working on the car but just on weekends. So far I have fixed some things.

- Fixed the hoses, except the one that goes to the PVC

- Cleaned the APC boost control valve

- Cleaned the turbo bypass valve

- Adjusted the handbrake

- Change the battery of the car

- Repair the dimmer switch

Instrument cluster is now working by resoldering resistance 13 (R13),however the gas and turbo gauges don't move, so I must have to live without them for some time. I'm using SID D.T.E. for calculating the remaining gas.

Cleaned the Idel Air Control Valve (IAC) because the engine stalled randomly. But works fine just for a couple of days and start stalling again. The valve has an arrow on top of it, it was installed with the arrow pointing to the throtle body (see picture). I'm not sure if it goes that way or not.

Remote is working (light on) but does nothing. Any ideas where I should look first?

Well, so far that's what I have done, any help will be apreciatted!

Thanks in advance

 

['97 Saab SE Turbo]

If you are talking about the light on the end of the key, that's all it is - a light. You can buy the keys with or without the light... Ron