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Discussion Starter #1
So it's looking like I royally screwed up my throwout bearing job. My understanding was that the pole the fork is on had a certain spot for the bolt to go through, but now that my clutch is only engaging on the very last bit of the pedal release that is obviously not the case. Cable is adjusted as much as possible to make up for it but it still slips when the turbo kicks in. Is it possible to adjust this from the small access hole in the bell housing? I'll do anything to not have to drop the tranny again.
 

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Are you using the same clutch cable as before? Is it really tight when the pedal is fully released?
 

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Same clutch cable. I wouldn't say really tight but there's tension all the way through

Didn't mean to post twice. Don't get why I can't find a delete button for posts
There's no longer a delete function that I can find. You can EDIT out the content and leave a note of your own making.

I assume this is an NG900 since you mentioned "cable". Is this a factory self-adjusting cable or an aftermarket one? The adjustable type doesn't get a lot of respect around here but we have hints for the self adjusting one. As for the internals... I didn't think there was anything that could vary (change position) in there, but I never had my NG900 tranny out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I assume this is an NG900 since you mentioned "cable". Is this a factory self-adjusting cable or an aftermarket one? The adjustable type doesn't get a lot of respect around here but we have hints for the self adjusting one. As for the internals... I didn't think there was anything that could vary (change position) in there, but I never had my NG900 tranny out.
Yes, it's a cable clutch and it's a manually adjustable one I put in a few months ago. I had it adjusted almost as far taught as possible before the project and now I have it set the opposite way but it still is too taught. Based on the WIS I'm pretty sure it is adjustable at the fork.
 

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Based on the WIS I'm pretty sure it is adjustable at the fork.
Yeah, now that I look in the WIS, I see the adjustment possibilities regarding fork and shaft position. Doesn't appear to be flatted to only accept one position.

I've never heard of anyone going in through the inspection hole and adjusting it... and you'd think someone would have kludged it to get a little more clutch adjustment/life somewhere along the way in the last 20 or so, but maybe it can be done.

I'm going to bow out and let someone who has tried to get in there through the inspection cover and/or actually worked on it to comment on access.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've never heard of anyone going in through the inspection hole and adjusting it... and you'd think someone would have kludged it to get a little more clutch adjustment/life somewhere along the way in the last 20 or so, but maybe it can be done.
Yeah it seems crazy to me that I can't even seem to find any posts from people who made the same mistake which makes me feel even more dumb. I've searched high and low and can't seem to find anyone else who has attempted this yet. I'm about to head out and see what I can do. Will update
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well couldn't manage to get something in the to turn the bolt, but I found that when the tension is fully removed it doesn't put any pressure on the clutch fingers. So I took a little rubber spacer out to remove more tension from the cable. It still could use a little more tension removal but it's already really hard to make it slip now. The only issue is the throwout bearing is riding on the fingers now which I'm guessing is gonna cause to to go bad sooner?
 

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Well couldn't manage to get something in the to turn the bolt, but I found that when the tension is fully removed it doesn't put any pressure on the clutch fingers. So I took a little rubber spacer out to remove more tension from the cable. It still could use a little more tension removal but it's already really hard to make it slip now. The only issue is the throwout bearing is riding on the fingers now which I'm guessing is gonna cause to to go bad sooner?
FWIW: I have no idea about the parts now, but the factory throwout in the NG900 had an early reputation for wearing out too fast. Back in the day the standard strategy was to shift into neutral at lights and not stand on the clutch to save wear. Became a new habit for me. Might be a waster of information at this point.

I have no idea what it looks like from under there, but would a ratcheting box end or open end get in there to the bolt? The offset on different models varies. Or maybe a crowfoot on a 1/4" ratchet?
 
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