[Obi Rob Kenobi]

in a previous thread i was asking what could have caused my check engine light to go on today. well i got it checked at autozone and they said it was the camshaft position sensor. anybody knows if this is an expensive fix? since it is just a sensor, is it something that i should get fixed immediately or can i wait? i called my dealership and tey said they charge $115 just to diagnose, do you think they will still want to diagnose it themselves (i guess yes but maybe somebody knows otherwise). thanks!

 

[PMI]

If the retrieved code was P0340, that is a generic code, and so is the description which mentions a camshaft sensor, because that is the most common way of sensing that parameter.

There is no camshaft position sensor on the turbo versions of the engine. The camshaft position and firing order are sensed on start through the direct ignition cassette and the spark plugs.

Saab dealers and some independent mechanics have a special "test" version of the DI cassette, also called a "blue" DI cassette. Hopefully a mechanic can be found who will not charge over $100 for the few minutes it takes to check this out. There are other possible reasons, including lack of dielectric grease on the DI boots, a poor connection, old/fouled spark plugs, etc.

DI cassettes are around $300 online and take about 10 minutes to swap out, unfortunately some people report paying $450-500 plus labor at a dealer to replace it.

 

[Obi Rob Kenobi]

is this generally covered in a extended warranty?

 

[Obi Rob Kenobi]

ok i went to my mech and he said it's possible this was just an intermittent fault so he reset the check engine light and said if it's a serious problem or a "hard fault" the light should come back on. it hasn't after a half day of driving. should i be in the clear?

 

[PMI]

Not in the clear, but it shows your mechanic is correct, it is not something you need to throw money at right away. If it does not come back after a week or two, it was probably a temporary problem... one q. I should have asked, did this happen after a car wash, or something like that?

(I am guessing you would not be driving through too many rain puddles and flooded intersections in Vegas... :cheesy: )

 

[Obi Rob Kenobi]

i was driving on the highway and the car in the lane next to me had to swerve to avoid a large piece of spent tire so i swerved to avoid the car. i heard a thug which i am fairly sure was the other car still hitting part of the tire but my check engine light did go off right in mid-swerve.

btw it was a completely dry day but you would be surprised at some of the puddles we have to manuever through when it rains in vegas...the only place i have seen compare to vegas for rain when it's bad is thailand during rainy season.....the desert doesn't do too well at soaking up water!

 

[PMI]

Ummm, punt?

Water and the typical Midwest winter slush (that's snow, salt and water, shaken and stirred, explanation offered for desert dwellers...) has been known to splash up and do funny things to Saabs and other Euro imports). I have seen a rainstorm in Arizona, so I know the great soutwest has them now and then... :cheesy:

In any case, sounds like it is sorted for now, and you have a competent mechanic looking after things. Hope it stays that way.

 

[Obi Rob Kenobi]

ok so my mechanic reset the check engine light, then it stayed off for a week and turned back on. it stayed on for 2 days then turned back off by itself (while it was on i got it checked at autozone and once again it was a cam shaft position sensor i think p0340). i already had an appointment for my dealer to check it out but i am wondering if i should spend the money on diagnosis if this is nothing to worry about.....i know the day it came back on i had fueled the car but i am quite sure i put the gas cap on ok. any ideas?

 

[PMI]

P0340 can sometimes mean a failing DI Cassette. If you have an extended warranty, a vist to the dealer might be worth it to diagnose it for sure.

If not, I would install new plugs first. Plugs can cause errors in the direct ignition, and they are cheaper than a DI cassette ($8 for a set, compared to $300+ for the DIC). Even if the DIC is bad, plugs have to be changed along with it. Changing the plugs and making sure there is some dielectric grease left on the DIC boots is worth it.

Anyone can put in plugs, but unless it stops working completely, I think you may need the Tech II computer to diagnose a DIC failure.

 

[Obi Rob Kenobi]

thanks, i'll have the dealer check it out to be safe!