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Discussion Starter #1
Heres my symptoms, chuggin on acceleation, sometimes at low rpms, its got the feel like theres no fuel going in, it almost dies, and i have to let off and try again, its not cluch slip, its new, and its not a clogged cat because its not a constant problem only every once and a while. my guess is cam angle sensor because my friends eclipse was having the same symptoms and that was his problem. i do get a cel but it doesnt stay on for very long at all, and it doesnt have to be on for the problem to precist. any ideas?... o btw. 2.5 v6 150,500 miles
Tyler
 

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Discussion Starter #3
nope, plugs n wires, plugs might need replacing but there not bad
 

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t_buck09 said:
...my guess is cam angle sensor because my friends eclipse was having the same symptoms and that was his problem. i do get a cel but it doesnt stay on for very long at all, and it doesnt have to be on for the problem to precist...
That, or the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS).

Most posts about the CPS on this board refer to the other failure symptom on the 4-cyl engines, which is when the car won't start, or re-start when hot.

The CPS can also start to fail intermittently, usually when the engine gets to some RPM. With no signal from the CPS, the ECU is programmed to shut off fuel.

When the CPS signal drifts in and out of range as the RPM goes up, the car may appear to stall, or miss. When the RPM drop, the signal comes back, and the ECU restores the fuel. There are a few posts that describe this, but many more with the other, no-start symptom.

On cars with OBDII, the CPS will eventually generate a CEL, and a CPS specific code, P0335-P0339. However, the symptoms may persist for some time before you get the CEL. On earlier models, I am not sure what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok il definatly check that out, but you believe it may also be the cam position snesor? if there are any tests out there to test these sensors on the v6 could somebody post them, id search but im at school so i can. Thank you
 

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t_buck09 said:
...but you believe it may also be the cam position sensor? ...
Yes, I believe either one could give those symptoms, but someone w. the V6 will have to help w. that.
 

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I've heard symptoms simular to yours with the CPS being the problem. This was on a 4 cylinder turbo though. Its worth a shot, if your out of ideas. Try new plugs though too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i dont wanna sound like an idiot, but first off a cps is a crank position right? also could someone point me in the right direction on where this is on the v6??
tyler
 

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t_buck09 said:
...a cps is a crank position right?
yeah, it IS confusing, mostly because we like to ignore the V6 <chuckle>.

The V6 has both a Camshaft Position Sensor and Crankshaft Position Sensor. The 4-cyl only has the latter. So there is some confusion in the names, and the locations.

On the V6 the crankshaft sensor looks on the diagram to be on the corner of the engine closest to the US driver side. The crankshaft sensor is always close to the flywheel. p/n 4504288, you can look up a pic on eeuroparts.com.

The Camshaft sensor is on the other side of the engine, same side as the timing belt and cam gears, p/n 4504296.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok il have to take a gander at those to see whats up, glad that the cps is only 65.00 makes it a lil easier on the wallet

Tyler
 

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I looked up the V6 in the WIS. It shows the sensor next to and below the oil filter. Nominal resistance 540 Ohms.
 

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t_buck09 said:
Heres my symptoms, chuggin on acceleation, sometimes at low rpms, its got the feel like theres no fuel going in, it almost dies, and i have to let off and try again (Not "taking pedal" can also be a sign of a bad MAF do you know anyone you can swap with?) , its not cluch slip, its new, and its not a clogged cat because its not a constant problem only every once and a while. my guess is cam angle sensor because my friends eclipse was having the same symptoms and that was his problem. i do get a cel but it doesnt stay on for very long at all (Have you or had someone pull codes? They are there to guide us in the right direction), and it doesnt have to be on for the problem to precist. any ideas?... o btw. 2.5 v6 150,500 miles
Tyler
Remember diagnose then repair. PMI gave some good advice and armed you with the resistance you should be looking for. Check it hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok i will try and check those, as for you greenmachine, i am unable to pull codes off my car for some reason, ive tried numerous auto parts stores and got nothing. also, i have replaced the maf before but i replaced with a used unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
update, my problems only happen when under 3K rpm, above that my car just lurches, are these still symptoms of the crank position sensor???
 

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t_buck09 said:
update, my problems only happen when under 3K rpm, above that my car just lurches, are these still symptoms of the crank position sensor???
It is possible. The signal varies with the RPM. As the RPM changes, the symptoms can change.

Can you measure the resistance of the sensor, from the connector, across pins 1 and 2? That is the only real test we have.
 

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ummm... should i do this with the car running or shut off?? and i know its down by the tranny on the rear of the engine, but can anyone pull up a picture of this so i can take this test tonight??? if so that would be great

Tyler
 

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t_buck09 said:
ummm... should i do this with the car running or shut off?? and i know its down by the tranny on the rear of the engine, but can anyone pull up a picture of this so i can take this test tonight??? if so that would be great

Tyler
If we are testing for resistance, then this must be an isolated static test; if volts, then the engine must be operating.
You may have to fabricate a "pick-up" unit (two sharp pins isolated from each other)...
Some,if not all, of the sensors have a rather long pig-tail harness which then connects to a recieving bracket higher up on the engine and more accessible.. The Lambda sensor is an example, there are several more..
On the I4, the bracket is on the head above the transmission area and the thermostat; but the V6 will be different..
 

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Tyler - first, I did not mean to say it was behind the engine, bad wording on my part (or just a vacuum leak to the brain). The sensor should be adjacent to the flywheel, toward the bottom of the engine, on the front, on the V6 near the oil filter.

Second, to test the sensor resistance, all you have to do is find the connector, you don't have to remove the sensor. The cable wraps around the engine, and the connector is behind the engine under the engine cover.

Also, we don't have too many pics of V6 engines here (or not until you take some, :cheesy: ). But, we do have a picture of the connector, in this thread:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74369

The connector will be almost identical. Test the sensor winding resistance with engine off, engine cold, connector unplugged. On the 4-cyl, we measure resistance across pins one and two. Then plug everything back in, engine cover back on, done!
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
PMI said:
Tyler - first, I did not mean to say it was behind the engine, bad wording on my part (or just a vacuum leak to the brain). The sensor should be adjacent to the flywheel, toward the bottom of the engine, on the front, on the V6 near the oil filter.

Second, to test the sensor resistance, all you have to do is find the connector, you don't have to remove the sensor. The cable wraps around the engine, and the connector is behind the engine under the engine cover.

Also, we don't have too many pics of V6 engines here (or not until you take some, :cheesy: ). But, we do have a picture of the connector, in this thread:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74369

The connector will be almost identical. Test the sensor winding resistance with engine off, engine cold, connector unplugged. On the 4-cyl, we measure resistance across pins one and two. Then plug everything back in, engine cover back on, done!
well due to unexpected things to do tonight i cannot check this. but i will be sure to do this tomarrow, i will let all know what my tests yeild!!

UPDATE, i managed to flashlight my way around and i found the connector, its located here
i will measure the voltage tomarrow though
 

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t_buck09 said:
... i will measure the voltage...
Resistance, not voltage, across pins 1 and 2. The sensor should measure around 540 Ohms, +/- 10%.

It is possible to measure voltage also, but nobody here has much experience doing that.

 
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