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I was just wondering how many of you have had success fixing the buzzing/rattling when you took it to the dealer. Next week will be my second time, but I don't hold much optimism... :-?
 

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wolverinewizard said:
I have no problem tearing it apart; it's getting it back on without it looking like i tore it apart that i'm nervous about.
I couldn't agree more....I went as far as finding out that the wiring for the gas lock mechanism is existent.

Paul
 

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I'm thinking of doing it myself as well.
As soon as I identify one rattle and have the dealer fix it (when it's been in for other work), a new one appears to replace it. :-(
 

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wolverinewizard said:
I have no problem tearing it apart; it's getting it back on without it looking like i tore it apart that i'm nervous about.
The main problem is the door acts as a speaker cavity for the 6.5" speaker, and the whole interior panel moves when listening to loud music. Basically, anything and everything on the door panel vibrates. If it's loose, it can buzz or rattle.

These noises can be extremely difficult to isolate. It took me months to figure out my window switches were buzzing. Now my doors are quiet.

There are old threads which show how to remove the door panel. There are pix which show the clip locations. That helps. I posted pix showing how to pop the door pull cover off.

Once you get the door panel off, I believe the most important thing to do is to get it shaking. I did this by banging all around with my fist. Anything that was loose I fixed with tape, foam, or sticky weatherstrip goo. There will be a number of things you find that are loose.

Many of the old threads advocate stuffing foam in various parts of the space between the door and the interior panel. I did this as a first step. I believe this works in some cases because it either keeps the panel from vibrating, or changes the natural frequency of the panel. I play music loud, so I could never get the doors quiet under all conditions using this solution.

I tried completely Dynamatting one door. To my ear, that did ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. It certainly didn't stop the rattles. I still have one door with the stock foam liner and the other Dynamatted.

I have had my door panels off about twenty times. Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures of all this fun. Since it all works fine now, I'm pretty much resolved not to mess with it again unless I have to :!

It would help us if you could describe the buzzes or rattles more precisely. These can be difficult to find. Pushing on the door often stops the noise, probably because you are altering the pattern of vibration propagating through the interior panel. A buzz is something shaking at a pretty high frequency. That means whatever is shaking is probably small and light. Try lightly touching the window switches. A rattle is more likely to be something like one of the wires or harness clips which attach to the panel. You will only see how loose these are once you remove the panel. Saab did a lousy job of anchoring things to this panel, mostly using black adhesive tape (or nothing).
 

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Forget the dealer. They will do more damage then good. Most of the rattles and creaks have been identified and fixed by members of this board and are easy to do. I have had the buzz and creak. Here are my fixes.

Buzz - Remove door panel and use 1/4" self-stick foam from Home Depot. Go completely around the door panel and then put it back on. Problem fixed

Door Creak - Plastic/rubber weather strip at the top of each door. Used Vaseline for now. Looking for felt tape

Shift Creak - Tighten four mounting bolts from shifter to mount.

And now after a year, I have a silent Saab.
 

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cpufixer1 said:
Buzz - Remove door panel and use 1/4" self-stick foam from Home Depot. Go completely around the door panel and then put it back on. Problem fixed.
Did this. Didn't work for me. I also put 3/4" foam all over the parts of the panel which contact the foam liner. I also inserted thin plastic shims under the brushed metal trim which is attached to the door panel, as I thought that was vibrating.

Others have found the trim surrounding the windows to rattle. I pulled that off and affixed it with double-sided foam tape. I don't think mine was rattling that much, but I figured I might as well affix it. It is rather loosely connected as shipped from the factory.

Part of the problem with door rattles is a lot of the plastic parts are snapped in at the factory. The type of plastic used will bend, but not necessarily return to its original position. So if something is inserted a bit crooked, it might stay in place, but be a little loose. Such was the case with my window switches, and ALL the anchors for the wiring harnesses on the backside of the door panel. The whole window switch module also snaps into the door panel. Saab had it attached with black tape, which had already partially dried and detached when I fixed my six month old car. This is really junky tape they use.
 

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Hi Ctrlz:
You wrote: It took me months to figure out my window switches were buzzing. Now my doors are quiet.

I have tried searching for information about how to fix this, without success. Could you please help me to find the thread. I have problems with both my doors.

/Peo
 

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Now I found this:

//I ended up diassembling them and modifying with felt adhesive pads.//


Was it tricky to diassemble the switches and did you have to take off the whole doorside. For this. I guess it could be enough with demounting just the doorhandle and together with that the switch-unit. Am I right or wrong?

/P
 

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vectorpoppen said:
Now I found this:

//I ended up diassembling them and modifying with felt adhesive pads.//


Was it tricky to diassemble the switches and did you have to take off the whole doorside. For this. I guess it could be enough with demounting just the doorhandle and together with that the switch-unit. Am I right or wrong?

/P
It is not easy to get to the switches.

Here is the outline:
The door panel must be removed.
The switch module must be removed from the panel.
The switch module is disassembled.
The switch toggles are popped out from the underside (very carefully).
Thin felt pads are inserted into the frame which holds the toggles.
The switches are then popped back in from the top.

It is a lot of work to do it this way. I was already familiar with taking the door apart, so I chose to do it like this.

You may be able to insert small shims without taking anything apart. Maybe some thin pieces of styrene attached with white glue. You could insert some wax paper first, then slip the glued shim between the paper and the switch housing, so the shim will stick to the side frame (not the moving switch). Any white glue that spills can be removed with water. Let it dry, then the wax paper will be removed easily. This should stick for a while, but white glue won't be as sticky as other adhesives. Thin styrene sheet will be available at craft stores or stores which sell model building supplies (hobby stores in the USA). Thick paper or thin cardstock might also work.

Just for your information, the plastic switch toggles press against a flexible cover (probably silicone) that lays over the electronics. The underside of this cover has the actual membrane keypad which makes the connection. This flexible cover makes the assembly water resistant. The next layer down is the circuit board for the door electronics. This includes the window and door lock control circuits, as well as things like auto-up, auto-down, and pinch protection. There are about 6 IC's in there! Then there is a hard brown plastic shell which is the bottom piece, the "tub" that holds everything.
 

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cpufixer1 said:
Shift Creak - Tighten four mounting bolts from shifter to mount.
I have gotten most of my buzzes, squeaks, rattles etc, but I think i have this Shift Creak still, I get a creaking from somewhere, didnt hear it all summer, now that its cold out, it's back. Could be coming from the center area or the upper dash area. Not sure. Where exactly is this Shift Creak?
 
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