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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The subframe was dropped due to a clutch jobs (thanks to the prior owner), oil pan was dropped the whole nine yards, almost...didn't get to switch out the bushings. Well I don't have any plans to drop the subframe until the transmission needs work (fingers crossed, not for a while). Yet, I still want to get better steering feel. SAS has been installed, aside from control arms bushings and engine mount, what other bushings should I have the indie swap out with relative ease?

thanks!
 

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End links are separate - do yourself a favor and buy Moog sway links - they are thicker and a good match to the SAS

You can also get Moog tie rods to match.

Pics of the Moogs here:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237321

If you did your control arm bushings and engine mount, you can do the subframe bushings (makes a world of difference), and the rear trailing arm.

Also consider checking the various dampeners/engine mounts located underneath and in the front (passenger side near the serpentine, driver's side under the battery).
 

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Good point about the Moogs, also they have grease fittings so you shouldn't have to worry about replacing them again.

If you replace everything I mentioned your car will have a tight front end like when it left the factory.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay, you guys sold me on the Moog, but where to buy? Guess I will be needing all front and rear...

As for the bushings, can someone help select the packages I need for non-subframe related kits?

Options
http://store.powerflexusa.com/saab-9-5-urethane-bushings-1998---2009-ys3e-p36.aspx

since I got SAS bushings, dont' think I will be needing sway related bushings, 3, 8, 11 I won't be needing? What about 20 and 21?
 

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Okay, you guys sold me on the Moog, but where to buy? Guess I will be needing all front and rear...

As for the bushings, can someone help select the packages I need for non-subframe related kits?

Options
http://store.powerflexusa.com/saab-9-5-urethane-bushings-1998---2009-ys3e-p36.aspx

since I got SAS bushings, dont' think I will be needing sway related bushings, 3, 8, 11 I won't be needing? What about 20 and 21?
Get the Moog parts from RockAuto, they'll be at a great price and won't take long to get shipped.

For the bushings, you don't need the sway bar bushings (3 and 11) since the ones that came with the SAS are poly.

If you want to go all out (like I did), you will need 8 (the subframe ones), 1 (front control arm front), 2 (front control arm rear), and 10 (rear trailing arm). Since you have a 2007 make sure that you get the 62mm O/D bushing for #2.

The control arm bushings are not difficult at all if you can use a hydraulic press. The rear trailing arms I am doing this weekend, but still shouldn't be an issue. The subframe ones were involved so, as I mentioned, I had an indie do it (along with a few other things).

order from PartsForSaabs and you can save a little

#1 is $64 with PFS vs $78 with Pusa
#2 is $63 with PFS vs $77 with Pusa
#8 is $136 with PFS vs $180 with Pusa
#10 is $54 with PFS vs $66 with Pusa

total around $317 with PFS vs $401 with Pusa (not counting S/H)

For 20 and 21 - I ordered the one from GS (these are on backorder from Pusa anyway)

http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=47_82&products_id=312

and I looked up the install from others on the forum and found this nice piece

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/s...3&highlight=transmission+mount+trouble&page=2

I will be doing this over the weekend as well (careful not to torque the bolt on this too much or you can break the fitting)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Get the Moog parts from RockAuto, they'll be at a great price and won't take long to get shipped.

For the bushings, you don't need the sway bar bushings (3 and 11) since the ones that came with the SAS are poly.

If you want to go all out (like I did), you will need 8 (the subframe ones), 1 (front control arm front), 2 (front control arm rear), and 10 (rear trailing arm). Since you have a 2007 make sure that you get the 62mm O/D bushing for #2.

The control arm bushings are not difficult at all if you can use a hydraulic press. The rear trailing arms I am doing this weekend, but still shouldn't be an issue. The subframe ones were involved so, as I mentioned, I had an indie do it (along with a few other things).

order from PartsForSaabs and you can save a little

#1 is $64 with PFS vs $78 with Pusa
#2 is $63 with PFS vs $77 with Pusa
#8 is $136 with PFS vs $180 with Pusa
#10 is $54 with PFS vs $66 with Pusa

total around $317 with PFS vs $401 with Pusa (not counting S/H)

For 20 and 21 - I ordered the one from GS (these are on backorder from Pusa anyway)

http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=47_82&products_id=312

and I looked up the install from others on the forum and found this nice piece

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/s...3&highlight=transmission+mount+trouble&page=2

I will be doing this over the weekend as well (careful not to torque the bolt on this too much or you can break the fitting)
The Moog endlinks from rockauto comes to about $49 before shipping, is that the cost for the complete set for front and rear or just 1/2 a set?
 

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I will be doing this over the weekend as well (careful not to torque the bolt on this too much or you can break the fitting)
hah - I got my Saab up on a lift today, and found out that the JT exhaust juts up right against the screw for this. So I will have to wait to be able to drop the exhaust down to change this out.
 

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Moog end links from advance auto only run $33... and if you apply discount code P20, for 20% off, you only wind up paying a little over $26 per for them. If you place an order over $75 you get free shipping. Not really a huge fan of advance auto, but sometimes when the deal is right, they are tough to beat.
 

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What about those bushings?

Anyone used them? I think that my oem bushings are not in good condition. Then i had oportunity to hold new oem bushings in my hand and theese were really hard rubber. Can they be dead? :roll:
 

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What about
those bushings?

Anyone used them? I think that my oem bushings are not in good condition. Then i had oportunity to hold new oem bushings in my hand and theese were really hard rubber. Can they be dead? :roll:
These are the only bushings designed for a 9-5:

http://www.powerflex.co.uk/products/9-5+(1998-2010)+YS3E-728/1.html

- Front Wishbone (control arm) Front
- Front Wishbone Rear
- Front anti roll bar mounting
- Front subframe
- Rear Trailing Arm
- Rear anti roll bar mounting
- Engine torque rod to subframe
- Engine torque rod to engine
 

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This is what NeoBrothers said:

"Many thanks for your email, the steering rack bush is only listed for Saab 900 but has OE part number 8934119, this part number will also fit Saab 9000s and 9-5s (not many people know this though)."

while that may be true, wouldn't it make sense that PowerflexUK would advertise the part as available under the 9-5 listing as well?
 

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If you want to tighten up the front half of the car, since it accounts for 60% of the car's weight, get the Ultra Racing strut bar off eBay for $125 shipped. Even on my 04 it really tied the front end together. And that is with stock suspension.

Where tires would squeal in a turn I now have to readjust steering input so I don't apex early. Also noticed mid-turn I'd have to give more steering input to hold intended line. I also noticed this when someone else wa driving the heavy wagon. Even after a few fast intersections turns I still have allot of grip remaining. There is some increase in noise and vibration on rougher roads.
 

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Norm95 - are you talking about the strut tower bar? Because the strut tower bar alone won't do a whole heck of a lot. Saabs are built quite well, and the strut towers are strong. It isn't like on a Nissan where you will notice more of a difference. I installed a Maptun strut tower bar on my wife's stock 9-3 2.0T and it isn't a huge difference.

To really have an effect, you should get SAS sway bars that are of a considerable greater thickness (25mm front, 22mm rear). Also consider upgraded sway bar links, such as Moog (which are greater thickness) and help tie in the heavier sway bar to the strut tower.
 
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