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Discussion Starter #1
After a bit of advice.



I have a 1990 T16s that is beyond economical restoration so I have sold interior wood dash wood window switches etc to generate some cash.

This was supposed to be a car to get my son interested in, to keep him off the streets sort of thing, so we have decided to build it into a track car and maybe do a bit of hillclimbing (I know it has a weak gearbox).

I have already stripped all interior out including sunroof cassette and frame, so far I have taken about 85kg out of the car.

Didn’t weigh the leather seats before I sold them, does anybody know how much these weigh.

Also I have been advised to take out heater matrix to save weight but leave the fan in, will this cause any other problems considering this car won’t be used on the road except for to and from MOT station.

Taking this one step at a time so any up front advice will be greatly appreciated.

What would a reasonable bhp to aim for with a very limited budget and over 205k on the clock.

I am going to fit a different intercooler and don’t mind a lot of work to make it fit, any suggestions.
Also have a 3bar fpr to fit.

Thanks

Darren :cheesy:
 

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OE Saab 900 seats (manually adjustable) weigh 14 kgs each, 16 kg with the rails and adjusting mechanism attached to them. I wouldn't think there's a significant difference between leather and velour-clad seats.

For the intended purpose and based on the assumption that new, uprated springs and shock will find their way to the car, I would strongly advise to remove the front anti-roll bar. I'd also relocate the battery to the boot, and replace the downpipe with that dreadful cast 90 degree elbow from the turbo and the front silencer c.q. catalyst with a custom 3" downpipe. A local tuning shop did this for about 200 quid here. With a better intercooler solution, a tweaked APC box and some attention to fueling you should be in the 220 bhp range.

Electric window lifters can be replaced with manual cranks from a base model -on my 5-door car, this saved 2.2 kgs per door. Removing central locking motors, cruise control components and the now-redundant wiring and switches from/to them sheds another 5 kg. I suppose you've already removed the carpet? The undercarpet sound deadening material weighs a whopping 8 kgs; I replaced it with some Dynamat Dynaliner (as mine is still a roadgoing car) which weighed 0.39 kg for 1 square metre. Replacing the space-saver spare and jack with a can of tyre foam saves 13.5 kgs, and the boot floor weighs about 9 kg in total.

Replacing the rear window with a Lexan window (which can be shaped like the original) would save a few kgs, too.

If you remove the heater matrix (which is kind of heavy) you just need to colse the circuit using a 180 degree bend to connect top and lower hose that normally connect to the heater valve in the cabin.
 

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Its worth keeping some form of demisting (maybe one of the electric heater thingys advertised in the kit car world) as trying to do a trackday when its cold and damp (which occur quite regularly) isn't much fun when you can't see out of the car.
 

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I would keep the heater stuff, sometimes being able to turn up the heat can help get heat out of the engine :)

definantly do a 3 in turbo back exh

I kept the stock sway bars on my track SPG, used brads adjustable springs & I gained 5-10 mph through the turns at my local roadcoarse.

It shouldn't be to difficult to get the car over 200 HP. APC, larger exhaust, 3 bar FPR, larger injectors, K&N filtercharger should all get you some descent HP.

If you want the best springs & plan on doing a lot of track time, I strongly suggest brad's adjustable springs!!!!
 

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Alex said:
Its worth keeping some form of demisting (maybe one of the electric heater thingys advertised in the kit car world) as trying to do a trackday when its cold and damp (which occur quite regularly) isn't much fun when you can't see out of the car.

Fair point. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have already stripped out a lot of parts and i am in the process of removing the cruise control to fit in my Aero, i have attatched a pic to show how far i have got.

Will try to find some manual lifters as rarely used electric windows rarely work anyway so this would be a good idea.

Does anybody know how much the back seats weight.

I did wonder about demisting so intended to leave the fan and the vents all in place it just would't be warm air, would this setup still mist up.

When larger injectors are mentioned i do have a set of LPT injectors, i was under the impression these were larger if so are they large enough to make difference.

When hp is mentioned is this at the wheels or flywheel and how much does a standard T16 without cat run at the wheels.

What would be a sensible weight to aim for overall, i reckon i'm down to about 1180 kg but some bucket seats, harnesses and the dashboard have to go back in yet

Sorry about all the questions i just don't want to waste time on useless mods.
 

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Is your 900 equipped with Lucas EFi? For MY90 I think it should be. If so, then the injectors on the LPT will be identical to those on the track car.

The Lucas injectors flow 27lb/hr while the Bosch injectors on earlier (pre-MY90?) flow 21lb/hr. However, the Lucas units are low impedance and whereas the Bosch ones are high impedance. An EFi controller has to specifically support low impedance injectors, which the Bosch LH box doesn't.

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Don't do anything yet

If you are doing this *purely for fun* and mostly track days, then do whatever mods suit you. However, if you have any expectations of being competitive at the hillclimbs, I think it'd be ill-advised to prepare a car for racing without first getting a rule book and choosing a car class that suits your interest, level of commitment and _budget_.

In other words, find out who organizes the races you want to run, read their rules/class descriptions, and then do the mods allowed by your chosen class's ruleset. (Hint: closer to stock configuration = less money, less breakdowns/headaches, but still lots of fun; something to consider for a car whose road-going life is near the end.)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will be doing this just for fun on track days (hopefully Saab ones) to start off with but as time and money permits would like to get into hillclimbing although i know i will never be very competetive but theres always my previous times to try and beat.

A friend of mine does scrutineering from clubman events all the way up to the really serious stuff so he is providing the info for the basics as far as does and don'ts for the classes.

It is a 1990 car so is lucas equiped and the info on the injectors is interesting.
I do have a couple of spare engines and gearboxes so do want to squeeze as much power out as possible.

Does anybody need a sunroof frame and pulleys seems a shame to throw them FTGH.:lol:
 
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