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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I found the Body Control Module, BCM, under the dash on the outside wall in front of the front door, next to the backside of the interior fuse box. Unplugging that just disconnected access to anything, including the OBD2 connector.

I found the Main Instrument Unit, MUI, connector. I think I did. After removing the foot and wire protector under the dash, I was able to reach up underneath the dash, around the steering column. I am pretty sure I touched the connector on the back of the instrument panel. The tabs on both sides of the connector are very short and difficult to grasp or activate. It seems there is no room to get enough fingers or hand in position to leverage enough traction and pressure to disconnect the connector. To be clear, I can't see anything. I can only get tactile information.

I went through the earlier post about using a multimeter to check the OBD2 connector. Everything seemed to be well within spec.
One of the errors I am getting on the Tech2 is:
"I-Bus Missing. Tech 2 cannot contact CIM via DLC pin 1.
Flash Hi beam to check bus. If OK, check pin 1 of DLC and its wire to CIM. If Hi beam does NOT work, reason is a total I-bus failure or no power supply to CIM.
I-bus activity can be verified using test lamp 8611057 between DLC pins 1 and 4.
See Fault Tracing in WIS section 3: Bus and Diagnostics Communication. "

I am not sure what test between pin 1 and pin 4 is to be done.

I was able to locate the connector for the Ignition Control Module, ICM. It is in the center console almost directly below the key, but on the driver's side, just behind the center console driver's side panel and the insulation batting. I am trying to take pictures as I go along and hope to make a post about it later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I also noted that on bootup the Tech2clone is giving an error.
Tech 2 POST ver 6.2
001 IRAM ... Pass
002 ERAM ... Pass
003 UART ... Pass
004 MCU ... Pass
005 QSPI ... Pass
006 SCI ... Pass
007 TPU ... Pass
008 RTC ... FAIL
009 CLKMEM ... Pass
010 KEYPAD ... Pass

What is RTC?
Does it need to be fixed?
 

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The tech2 bootup error is ok.
U shouldve mentioned the tech2 msg about the missing I-bus, does ur high beam works ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Yes, the high beam works correctly. Sorry, I didn't mention it earlier. I'm not sure what is relevant and what isn't. I haven't found any good resources yet with a menu flow chart of the Tech2. This is definitely a case of not knowing what to ask.
 

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Just look behind the DLC with ur tech2 connected, are any pins backed out from behind the DLC ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
As far as I can tell, all of the pins are seated properly and making good contact. I could pull the pins out of the connector if I need to. I have a pin release tool set.
I am seeing variables in the t2c responses to certain inputs. Some times the checking key position process comes back with OK and some times it comes back with no communications. Some times the checking vehicle selection comes back with OK and some times wrong vehicle selected. The menus are easy to get lost in.
The No I-bus message is from Diagnostics - Year - Model - All - DTC check
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I discovered that the only OBD2 pins that are being used are:
1,_ _ 4, 5, 6 _ _
_ _ _ _ _14, _ 16
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
BlueDriver device does not connect to the ECU. Neither does one of my older bluetuooth OBD2 devices. The t2c could be bad. I'm checking with the seller to find out what is available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
BTW, the t2c works perfectly on my 2004 Silverado 2500.
This does involve switching out the PCMICA cards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Are there any acknowledged SAAB experts in New Jersey? I really want to get my car back on the road. I am quite a bit out of my depth here.
 

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I'm somewhat nearby in Staten Island however I'm far from a Saab expert. On your DLC connector -- unscrew it from the car (2 screws). Look at the back of the connector. Give a tug on each wire one by one. None of them should have any play or pull out of the connector. Now look at the front of the connector. All of the pins should sit evenly within the connector, again none should look displaced, bent, etc. The very common issue of a wire being loose in the connector means the OBD2 port won't connect properly to a reader (normal obdII or tech2).
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I have already pulled the DLC down. Each wire moved a millimeter or less. The connections all seemed very solid. I will still double check them again. If you find yourself planning to be in NJ anytime very soon, please let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Multimeter check of OBD2 connector:
Good / have
P01 0v or 5-7v /= .4~.5v fluctuates
P04 0v/ = 0.04v
P05 0v/ = 0.03v
P06 2.5-3.5v/ = 2.51v
P14 1.5-2.5v/ = 2.47v
P16 12+v/ = 12.02v
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I am trying to trace the green Pin1 wire to the CIM, but no luck so far.
Does anyone have any pictures of the CIM and how it's connector and wires go to the OBD2 connector?
 

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The voltage test uve done is useless i would say, just test the i-bus wire continuity between DLC pin1 and CIM pin19 .. u dont need to know how the wire goes there unless u find no continuity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Makes sense.
I got the CIM connector pulled.
Next task, determine pins 19, 20 21
281018
 
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