SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,510 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i can't stand it anymore. i feel like i have no brakes. i can stop fine, but i've got perhaps another inch or two of pedal travel towards the floor from the position i need to remain stationary. the pedal feels much lighter than it used to, and most definitely not in a reassuring way. the pads are fine, the fluid level is fine, and my mechanic says he thinks the brakes feel fine. how they feel seems to vary with how warm the car is, warmer feeling better.

so what else can i troubleshoot?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
Sound to me like you have a rubber hose on the way out.

Get a volunteer to press the brake pedal, whilst you have a quick look around the hoses...

Another check to do is without the motor running, press the brake pedal 5 or 6 times... the point where it feels like a rock should move up each time, (as you are using the vacuum in the servo up). This will confirm the servo is working fine too...

Sounds like there has been a vacuum leak, and the servo hasnt been depressurising correctly in the past.

Owen
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,510 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i think the servo is fine since the brakes get very heavy with the engine turned off, however i do still feel an inch or so of free play that i think is corresponding with the extra travel when the engine is running. what should i be looking for in the hoses when checking them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
With a foot on the brake, iseally with the motor running, if you slide your hands down each hose, then the defective one will feel out of round - sometimes a distinct bulge will be felt.

Also do a quick visual check on all the calipers - it may be that one has freed up a little..


Have fun



Owen
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,510 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
gotta do the brake test again then. i just looked at each of the hoses, and they looked fine. brake fluid should have been done recently since i just had my 150k service.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,510 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
checked front lines. they feel fine. i can't even find the rubber hosing sections of the rear lines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Follow the hard green lines from the rear caliper, they should connect with the rubber lines roughly close to the bushings for the rear trailing arm. They go up, and connect to the hard lines up by the body. I know there is a slight difference between my early '94 and your '96, but mine look like a total pain to work on. At least you can get a Goodridge upgrade kit off the shelf, mine will have to be custom made...

Hopefully your problem is somewhere accessible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
what else can i troubleshoot?
If it also happens when stopped, it could be the master cylinder. Less common than other problems, but it happens.

Try testing the brake pedal travel at idle, on a level surface, with the car stopped and in neutral. As if you stopped at a red light. When you come to a stop, continue to press the pedal. It should not go down, there should just be a normal, small amount of give.

If the pedal continues to go down, the seals could be leaking a bit. The seals don't last forever, they wear, and finally fluid leaks past the seals, internal to the cylinder. The fluid does not leak out of the cylinder, but the piston inside continues to move as the fluid goes around the seals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
+1 on what PMI said.

If this is what it turns out to be, you may want to pay close attention to this: If you are using the Haynes manual, they leave out a very important point on Master Cylinder installation. It must be bench bled. A company called Help makes a kit for bench bleeding, get the one for metric. Don't even bother trying to find a rebuild kit, it's a wild goose chase, and the bore of your master will probably be useless anyhow. Just get a new Ate master.

You can find videos on You Tube on how to do a bench bleed; there is one important point that may be missed. When letting the piston return to it's normal position, pinch off the hoses connected to the primary and secondary ports. This forces the pistons to draw in fluid through the apertures, rather than the hoses, and if you don't do it, it can leave air trapped in the master that doesn't go away even after power bleeding. Your braking will be very spongy if you do not follow this procedure.

Trust me, I know, because I just had to redo mine, and I was shocked how long it was blowing bubbles on the bench. When bench bleeding, it should not be easy to press the piston in, hence the reason we have a vacuum booster. It is worlds better, now that I did it the right way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,515 Posts
When was the last time you changed the brake fluid?

Cheers M.
Ditto. A certain 'sheepy' main dealer in Sheffield definitely doesn't bother and stamps the book anyway. That's on BOTH Saabs I bought second hand that had main dealer 'servicing' from there.

Bleeding is on my to do list this weekend with my latest 9-3. It made a massive difference on the last one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,510 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If it also happens when stopped, it could be the master cylinder. Less common than other problems, but it happens.

Try testing the brake pedal travel at idle, on a level surface, with the car stopped and in neutral. As if you stopped at a red light. When you come to a stop, continue to press the pedal. It should not go down, there should just be a normal, small amount of give.
i've done this, and it still takes a fair amount of pressure to reach the floor. mind you, there's not much distance to the floor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,515 Posts
Just done all four and put 500mL of new fluid through/in. 500mL of Newcy brown came out :roll: Took just over an hour.

Same big difference as the last Saab, we now have brakes at the back :eek: This is after I freed the (frozen) pads off a couple weeks ago and noticed minimal improvement.

Definitely worth doing if you have poor/soft brakes :D


Front ones are easy, just turn the wheel to access. Back ones need the rear raising slightly, but no wheels have to come off. Gunson's Easybleed makes it very simple - along with a bike inner tube at 10PSI.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,515 Posts
Have you tried the 'blue mouthwash' and 'yellow toilet duck' economy cocktail yet? :confused:

What's left of your teeth are very clean afterwards :cheesy:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
668 Posts
sorry if this is a thread hijack but can anyone point me to directions on how to bleed/flush the brakes on our cars. Mine is feeling very soft as well lately.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
psymon-

Not entirely a thread hijack, even though you have a 9-5:cheesy:
http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20061109.Saab_9-5_Bleeding_Brakes/

There you go. Too bad the search is currently disabled, I'm sure you might find more in the 9-5 section.

hunt.dogshome-

Last week I tried using Ate Super Blue as a face cleanser:roll: . Don't ask how it got there. Thank goodness for safety glasses. On the bright side, it didn't get in my mouth...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
Have you tried the 'blue mouthwash' and 'yellow toilet duck' economy cocktail yet? :confused:
LOL. I'll be sure and let you know if I do.

saabchilten said:
i've done this, and it still takes a fair amount of pressure to reach the floor.
Sounds like you have something more going on there than bleeding the brakes can fix, but I suppose it is worth a try.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,515 Posts
Last week I tried using Ate Super Blue as a face cleanser:roll: . Don't ask how it got there. Thank goodness for safety glasses. On the bright side, it didn't get in my mouth...
Nice one. You know it makes sense wearing them :cool:

I put safety glasses on yesterday with the pressure bleeder - just in case. Even a splash from a pipe (without pressure bleeding) when lying on your back is easy to do.

Fluid on your hands stings if you leave it, in the eyes would be very nasty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,515 Posts
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top