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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All of my other rear lights work fine, just noticed today that my brake lights are not working. went to autozone bought a new pair of bulbs changed them out and no lights. checked the fuse #31 and it's good. I looked at the brake switch under the dash and it seemed fine. it was opening and closing. Can the brake switch be bad still? What amp/voltage should i be getting from the switch and how do i test it? If this is the problem? any ideas? I'm ready to drive this car around legit and not have to worry about a ticket from the police!
 

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I got stopped recently for no brake lights. Turned out to be the connector going to my left taillight was badly corroded on 3 of the pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I got stopped recently for no brake lights. Turned out to be the connector going to my left taillight was badly corroded on 3 of the pins.

i was just out fidgeting with the wires to the brake light switch and with a friend looking at my brake lights as i push them repeatedly while messing with the wires they would turn on. only the left one though. it's to dark out to mess with it now, but i will check the wiring in the morning. hopefully it's something simple.
 

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i was just out fidgeting with the wires to the brake light switch and with a friend looking at my brake lights as i push them repeatedly while messing with the wires they would turn on. only the left one though. it's to dark out to mess with it now, but i will check the wiring in the morning. hopefully it's something simple.
simple to test the brake light switch, put a multi meter on the 2 pins of the BLS (set it to Ohms - any scale is fine). Press the BLS button in and look for continuity (reading of 0) and when you release it look for open circuit (reading of infinity or 1).

I would check the grounds, they tend to go bad over the years from water getting into the tail lights/ trunk area
 

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Hard to believe those Bronze Age style printed circuit boards could melt like that... I guess I'll keep the ones from my parts vert...
Saab messed up a bit I think, they should have had the printed circuit and the rest of the dimmable instrument lights on separate circuits, the fuse is rated too high for the PC if you get a short in your instrument lights it burns the pc as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Fixed

Brake light switch was loose and needed to be tightened. a simple fix. hopefully it stays connected. I fixed it once already. seems to get loosened somehow from driving.
 

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Brake light switch was loose and needed to be tightened. a simple fix. hopefully it stays connected. I fixed it once already. seems to get loosened somehow from driving.
Try a dab of medium strength loctite.
 

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Try a dab of medium strength loctite.
Hi all,
I've completed this repair to my 91' convert. It keeps coming loose and my turn signals are effected. I'm going to try the locktite.

Could someone tell me if the circuit boards are interchangeable between driver and passenger sides? I don't have it pulled, but believe there are some sockets which are blank and the boards are side specific.
Does anyone know?

Thank you,
 
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