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I just got a reinforced SS brakeline kit for my 9000, but a Saab mechanic has warned that I could have big problems if any of the rear mount clips get damaged because of the effort needed to loosen the seized-up bolts that hold the rear brake hoses in place.

Does anyone have any experience of this? How big a problem could it be?
 

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idk, but i did the rear brake lines on my 1987 ford bronco II, and i twisted the metal line off...i had to replace the line from the middle of the truck back since all the other lines were also rusted shut....


Also ive bleed the brakes about 5 times and the rear brakes STILL suck and the pedal is very spongy...so I would say do this at your own risk. im sure with a newer saab twisting the line off wont be as likley though and its prolly easier to bleed this car then my rust bucket.
 

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its simple, plan to re swage new hard pipe and fitting on at the same time

some little tweaks
first the std hose looks like it is welded onto the bracket - it isn,t the weld just stops it turning
Second: remove calliper - remove fitting from calliper by turning the calliper not the fitting - then remove the hose from the hard line by turning the hose, not the fitting on the hard pipe i.e. if you want to save the hard pipe do not turn the fitting as its probably seized onto the pipe & when you turn it you twist off the pipe
 

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CLIP that binds 17mm Brake Hose to Body??

As it pertains to my replacing my standard Brake Hoses with Goodridge SS Brake Hoses, I thought I should check things out first and I'm in a quandry. After removal of my inner wheelarch, I could see the CLIP that appears to be wedged between two brackets affixing the 17mm Nut of the Brake Hose to the pre-formed body mount that keeps the 17mm Nut from turning.

What I can't determine is the following:

1. Since the end of the Goodridge SS Brake Hose ( and all others for that matter?) which connects to the Caliper can only be attached to the caliper by turning the entire Brake Hose as there is not a freely turning bolt-end for safety reasons, I was under the assumption that the 17mm Nut Side of the Brake Hose could be tightened to the Main Brake Line by turning the 17mm Nut?

--This is where I need HELP!

What does one do first assuming the CLIP is NOT Rusted! Pull the Clip Out and then Unscrew the Main Brake Line from the 17mm Nut on the Brake Hose? Or do you FIRST Unscrew the 17mm from the main by turning the 11mm nut on the Main Line and then try to prise the CLIP out gently? Further, does the Male Nut on the 11mm Main Brake Line turn freely or are you supposed to turn the 17mm Nut ? I certainly hope so as it seems unlikely that 17mm Nut can be turned at all because it looks like the 17mm Nut is seated inside the Pre-Formed bracket mount which keeps the 17mm side from turning.

This really needs to be explained as it is the difference between the job taking 1 Hour or 4 Hours!! I mean if you have to attach the 17mm Nut side first to the main line, then that would mean that one would have to completely dis-assemble the Caliper and turn the whole caliper to screw the caliper to the hose!!! And then re-Mount the Caliper and ABS Sensors ala Norman's suggestion.

Since I have only taken a cursory look, it looks like the Brake Hose has to pass through this hole within the bracket just below the CLIP???? I can't see how this can happen since there are rubber mounts on the brake hose itself that obviously could not possibly fit through this hole that appears on the 17mm Nut Mount (just below the CLIP on photo). Or, can I simply pull the 17mm Nut through once the CLIP is removed assuming the CLIP's function is to retain the 17mm Nut to the body mount? Also, it seems that the Main Brake line is pretty much fixed in that it doesn't look like it would extend any further towards the 17mm Mount if the CLIP were removed to enable one to unwind the 17mm Nut from the Main???

So, there is obviously more to this CLIP that meets the eye!! Since the Main line doesn't bend and is screwed into the 17mm Nut on the brake Hose, there isn't a lot of room so having the exact procedure would be helpful. The Haynes Manual make NO Mention of this procedure. These Clips are not available anywhere I can find, so there is not much room for any mistakes!!


Any further advice would be appreciated!!
 
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