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Oh thanks,

I guess I should have the question. So I have been reading about the symptoms of a bad ABS Accumulator. My car has the symptoms but exactly as I have been reading. I just bought this car last week 1990 Saab 900 Turbo Convertible. When you start the car the abs light is on and the brake fluid light is on and no matter how hard I push the brakes I do not have any. Have to use the emergency brake to stop the car. the light comes on as soon as I turn the car on. I do not have to pump the brakes as I have read in other posts. So I assume that the abs accumulator is bad?
 

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Do you hear the ABS pump going each time you press the brake pedal. I did this on the same exact car last year. For me the abs/brake lights went on everytime I pressed the brake pedal (very hard) and ABS pump would run each time
 

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With an accumulator failing you will still have operating (pedal) brakes , albeit not pressure assisted . Its tasks is to hold the pressure built by the ABS pump .

I believe you need to look deeper if you have no pedal braking . Start with checking the brake fluid and bleeding the brakes .
Even with a totally failed Accumulaor , your brakes should work somewaht albeit with a lot of force on the pedal .
 

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Ahh ok , cool . I dont know , but a suspect the bladder becomes pourous with age detioration as opposed punctured as such .
I base this on having had several in storage ( ok when removed from car ) but no good when reinstalled . I think age more than usage is the killer.
 

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I was told that even if I replace the accumulator and get my brakes working correctly, the ABS light and low brake fluid light will not automatically turn off that I will need to get the code cleared. Is there a way I can clear the codes myself? I remember on old GM and Fords you used to be able to do that with a paper click and certain connections in the OBD1 port. Not sure if that is possible with the Saab or if not what scanner would work?
 

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dont forget the metering insert, looks like a small golf t
So replaced the Accumulator and sadly the ABS light and the Brake fluid light didn't go off.
I did notice now when I push the brake pedal I hear a clicking noise. The noise is coming from what I believe it is a Solenoid Valve, not sure why that would be clicking when I apply the brake pedal.

Is there a way to test the ABS Finger Gas Machine Auto part Metal
pressure switch and ABS pump easily without pulling the unit out of the car? I really don't want to just start replacing parts until I find the correct one.
 

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I assume you dont hear the pump run and the click you are hearing is the Relay for the ABS Pump . Have you checked the fuses and relays in the dedicated fuse/relay box .
Once the Pump runs and pressurises the accumulatot the fault lights will clear .
It is sounding as though your issue is the Pump not running and that most likely is electrical .
 

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Re the reading codes and clearing codes , Look in the stickies here for ABS brakes , it will describe the process , Basically it is a Fly lead connected to a port near the ABS ECU ( under rear seat) that sends a sequence of flashes to the ABS light .
 

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I assume you dont hear the pump run and the click you are hearing is the Relay for the ABS Pump . Have you checked the fuses and relays in the dedicated fuse/relay box .
Once the Pump runs and pressurises the accumulatot the fault lights will clear .
It is sounding as though your issue is the Pump not running and that most likely is electrical .
what is weird is the clicking is coming from a part at the front of the car by the radiator. I believe it is called the Solenoid valve (not sure why that is tied to my brake pedal, did confirm as if I unplug that part the clicking stop when pressing the brake pedal). No noise from the pump at all. I did check the fuses and they are all good. Today I plan on testing the power to the fuses and relays. My tester broke last night and It was too late to get a new one. Another thing I find very strange is the Relay for the ABS pump gets hot to the touch and I believe that is a sign the relay is going bad or is bad? Also, the other thing is the ABS Pump relays have 5 male prongs on it, But the spot in the relay block has 5 spots for the prongs but only 4 of them have female clips. The outer ones are there, it's the middle one that is empty of missing. So I need to see if I can get the relay block apart to see what is going on. Do you know if on your Saab if your ABS relay pump plug has all 5 female connections on the block? Hope that all made sense.
 

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Hot relay is bad relay.
4 contact points means that relay has coil (2 points) and NO (normally open) contact (2 points).
Middle one is for NC or for doubling contact.
 

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Hot relay is bad relay.
4 contact points means that relay has coil (2 points) and NO (normally open) contact (2 points).
Middle one is for NC or for doubling contact.
Hi Mimmi,

Thanks for the information. I will get a new relay. does it have to be a Saab relay? I ask this as the one they have in the car is a ford relay and not sure if Relays are interchangeable? I did check all the fuses and those are ok.
 
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