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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I had the PPI done on this car, they mentioned something about the flexpipe starting to get rusty but...well, the picture speaks for itself:



Anyways, my V2 DP came on friday, had some time this weekend to start extracting all of the worn out bits, everything was going awesome until the last bolt (of course), heres a shoddy picture for reference.



The PO or the PO's Mechanic did a pretty great job of rounding off the bottom bolt that attatches to the turbo from the down pipe. I have tried massive amounts of PB blaster, hammer tapping, and even some heavy MAPP torching to no avail. I've tried normal spanners to vice grips and its not budging.

My thoughts:

The GS V2 DP comes with a new flange fitting. I could dremel off half of the fitting and slip the DP out, giving me more room to remove the stud/bolt combo.

I could dremel off the bolt, leaving me with a small (almost unusable) amount of stud to work with.

You might inform me of a method that I haven't tried, do they make a locking plier that can get into that space and still have room to move?

Do you think something could be welded to the nut and then taken off?

Help would be appreciated, thank you.
 

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The only other things I can think of is 1) hammering on the next size down socket, and 2) trying those rounded off bolt socket sets that craftsman makes….
 

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The GS V2 DP comes with a new flange fitting. I could dremel off half of the fitting and slip the DP out, giving me more room to remove the stud/bolt combo.

I could dremel off the bolt, leaving me with a small (almost unusable) amount of stud to work with.
I would go with the first option above. This will leave you with enough stud that you can get something on it. If you have access to a welder I would go that route. I would also take the PB blaster and get the back side of the stud really good as well. If the nut wont come off the stud may back out (did on mine).

One other option would be to get a "nut splitter" (sounds painful) and then you could salvage the stud w/o risking breking it. You could similarly carefully cut the nut (once the flange is cut off) in a straight line which will loosen the grip and then unscrew. That way the threads are preserved on the stud. Then you just use antisieze and a new nut.
 

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hahaha. yeah, put down your man-purse and get cranking! You gotta grunt like a caveman to get 'er done. Just kidding man, good luck.
 

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I didn't see in the pic, but you can cut off the stud on the turbo, drill the hole back out and just use a nut and bolt if that is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Frank_Drebin said:
I would go with the first option above. This will leave you with enough stud that you can get something on it. If you have access to a welder I would go that route. I would also take the PB blaster and get the back side of the stud really good as well. If the nut wont come off the stud may back out (did on mine).

One other option would be to get a "nut splitter" (sounds painful) and then you could salvage the stud w/o risking breking it. You could similarly carefully cut the nut (once the flange is cut off) in a straight line which will loosen the grip and then unscrew. That way the threads are preserved on the stud. Then you just use antisieze and a new nut.
I like the idea of cutting into the nut itself, maybe that, combined with heat and PB blast would shimmy it off. I've never heard of a nut splitter, after GIS'ing them, seems like they would be small enough to fit in that tight location.

IronJoe said:
Steve, I've got some of those rounded-off-nut sockets you can try. Also, did you try using man-strength?
My skirt got in the way. I like to stay sexy while i wrench (sexiest on the net), is that a problem? DO I SENSE SEXISM?! Actually, a socket wont fit in there, they are too tall. Major bummer.

Thanks for the help fellas, you will surely hear from me either way.
 

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It may not give you enough torque but with any screw/bolt that's stripped you can use a cutting tool to slice a channel in the bolt and use a flathead screwdriver or drill with flathead bit, but again it may be on too tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Welp, I took off my purse, picked up the dremel and went to work. I cut into the bolt a couple times, then got the vice grips, and wouldn't ya know, the whole damn thing came out.

Problem solved, FYI a nut breaker doesn't fit into the tight space.



Everything else was a cake walk. Thanks guys, I appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Nothing was damaged besides my already fragile pride.

Come out in Feb and you can give it a drive. (WANA STREET RACE? FOR PRIDE AN HONOUUUR?! beat'n up civics lyke it aint no thaaaaang) As long as I can feel the gentle caress of your vert.

Have that spare C900 panel lying around?
 

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That looks nice, if I decide to keep my car, I want to get a nice DP like that.

Take some nice pictures while you can, Thats one thing that sucks is that after u put on a nice looking part like that it gets all dirty and old looking.
 
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