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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everybody,

I helped my friend buy a 2003 9-3 SS Vector,4 Cylinder, 6-Speed Manual. And we are planning to do the maintenance ourselves, so I'm developing a plan.

The car has a "stutter" or "judder" under hard acceleration for a few seconds and then it evens out. From reading this forum, I think this is a common problem, and potentially the spark plugs or coils.

So far, that is the only fix that needs to happen. The rest of the things we are planning on doing are: In order of priority.

1. OIL CHANGE (w/Mobil 1 0W-40)

2. RENEW SPARKPLUGS (NGK PFR6T-10G)
a)Should we stick with the OEM sparkplugs? eEuroparts directs to NGK Iridium IX.
b)See if this affects the stutter problem.

3. BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR RENEW (fluid looks a little dark to me)

4. MANUAL TRANSMISSION FLUID DRAIN and FILL
a) MTF 0063?
b) the owners manual says 2.0 quarts (1.9 L).
c) to get to FILL bolt, we'd need to take off Battery and Box, is there a danger of losing radio codes? On my OG9-3 it's an issue.
d) Is there a common danger of stripping that bolt?

Is there anything we're missing that you would do?
Is there anything that we should look out for? Any tips?

Here's a picture of his new Vector!

Thanks everybody in advance for your input. Hopefully we'll be able to document the process in case anyone is interested.
 

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Most here would stick with the oem plugs unless tuned. I'm running Bosch equivalents with no issues YMMV.

I assume you mean to flush the complete brake system with new fluid. Technically it should be DOT 4 LV.

Both of mine are auto so no experience with manuals on the 9-3.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I assume you mean to flush the complete brake system with new fluid. Technically it should be DOT 4 LV.
... good point, I guess I was thinking we'd be lazy, but it probably would be a better idea to bleed the system. I was thinking we'd turkey baster out what we could from the reservoir and refill.

That's the same reservoir for the hydraulic clutch pedal as well right? Would that need to be bled out as well? Is that difficult to do?

thanks for your help.
 

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Replys in red

Hey everybody,

I helped my friend buy a 2003 9-3 SS Vector,4 Cylinder, 6-Speed Manual. And we are planning to do the maintenance ourselves, so I'm developing a plan.

The car has a "stutter" or "judder" under hard acceleration for a few seconds and then it evens out. From reading this forum, I think this is a common problem, and potentially the spark plugs or coils.

So far, that is the only fix that needs to happen. The rest of the things we are planning on doing are: In order of priority.

1. OIL CHANGE (w/Mobil 1 0W-40) Yes

2. RENEW SPARKPLUGS (NGK PFR6T-10G)
a)Should we stick with the OEM sparkplugs? Yes
b)See if this affects the stutter problem. Possible coils failing

3. BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR RENEW (fluid looks a little dark to me) Yes and flush

4. MANUAL TRANSMISSION FLUID DRAIN and FILL
a) MTF 0063? Yep
b) the owners manual says 2.0 quarts (1.9 L).Quantity was reduced,someone with wis should be able to tell you the new amount..
c) to get to FILL bolt, we'd need to take off Battery and Box, is there a danger of losing radio codes? Fill and drain is on the left side on the 6sp manual..No,radio is married to the car..
d) Is there a common danger of stripping that bolt? Pass

Is there anything we're missing that you would do?
Is there anything that we should look out for? Any tips?

Here's a picture of his new Vector!

Thanks everybody in advance for your input. Hopefully we'll be able to document the process in case anyone is interested.
I was thinking we'd turkey baster out what we could from the reservoir and refill.

That's the same reservoir for the hydraulic clutch pedal as well right? Would that need to be bled out as well? Is that difficult to do?

thanks for your help.
Absolutely no point,put clean fresh fluid in the reservoir and leave dirty contaminated fluid in the lines :nono;
Yes the clutch shares the same Res..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK, we'll bleed brakes the right way

yeah, you guys are right.

I haven't had a chance to look yet, but is it possible to reach behind the tires to get at the bleed nipples? Or does the tire have to come off?

We'll be doing our work with Rhino Ramps only. Don't think we can get away with jacking up the car on the streets of Brooklyn.

thanks for the words of wisdom.:roll:
 

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filler/drain plugs

I have the same car, when I tried to remove filler plug on top of trans, could not get it to budge. the plugs were installed at the factory with thread lock and is " sealed for life of vehicle ". had to use air impact to remove both plugs. make sure filler plug can be removed prior to draining the trans!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
After more research, gonna check two more things....

Just been doing more research and I think that we should look into two more items for maintenance and preventative maintenance on the new VECTOR.

5. CHECK SAI VALVE (replace if necessary)
a) looking for soot in there since this is a 2003 model, and this valve is wonky for this MY

6. REPLACE POWER STEERING PUMP SEAL w/ HIGH TEMPERATURE VERSION
b) there was some moisture around the power steering reservoir, so I'm thinking that this car suffers from a deteriorating seal as well

Just throwing these up here in case anyone is in the same boat, and following along...

Still haven't gotten around to doing any of these things, but hopefully soon. I'll try to update this post.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Spark Plugs and OIL CHANGE DONe!, Still some stuttering

Just another update on our maintenance project after buying an 03 9-3 SS 6 speed.

1. OIL CHANGE - it was dirty now it's clean and smooth riding! Mobil 1 0W-40

2. SPARK PLUG RENEW and diagnose Stutter while accelerating..


We took out the spark plugs and replaced them with new, the old ones looked normal to me, but we noticed they were super easy to take out. Like they weren't torqued down very much.

Not a big deal I guess. But we were hoping to find something wrong to help us diagnose the stuttering problem.

We did notice that while looking into the coils on Cylinder #3, and #4 that there was corrosion inside the boot around the metal spring. I tried cleaning a bit of it out with a Q-tip. Smeared the outside of the boot with a light coating of dialectic grease.

After putting in new spark plugs and a little cleaning, we noticed that it drove still with a slight stutter. It is definitely improved, however, but there is still some stutter under hard acceleration.

Check Engine Light came on and there were two codes....

P0455 - gas cap?
P0302 - cylinder #2 misfire


OUR NEXT STEPS...

So, I guess we're gonna be looking into a new gas cap? Or at least the gasket that goes around the gas cap? I'm also thinking that it may be the SAI check valve? I wanted to do some more research on that before broke the metal band that holds the check valve hose on to the valve itself.

Then my buddy is gonna buy a SAAB/MITSUBISHI COIL. And I guess we're gonna put it in cylinder #2. (Even though, the ones that looked dirty were actually cyliner #3, and #4).


Questions -

1. When looking at the engine, looking left to right, the cylinders go 1,2,3&4 right?

2. Should my buddy consider replacing all four coils? If budget doesn't allow, should we just put the new coil in cylinder 2? And just keep chasing Check Engine Codes?

3. Anyone try an aftermarket gas cap to fix the P0455 code?


Does anyone have any experience or advice with these issues? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Hope your weekends were good.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
stuttering engine fixed...!

update:

stuttering engine is fixed on this car!

After a renewal of with new OEM spec spark plugs on all four cylinders. We noticed that the stuttering had lessened. It wasn't stuttering as much, nor as vigorously.

At the same time, a Check Engine light came on P0302, which is a cylinder #2 misfire.

So, our next step was to get a new SAAB/MITSUBISHI coil from Advanced Auto. Dropped it in to cylinder #2.

done. ;ol;

Anyways, our saga continues because the P0455 code that we thought was fixed with a new-to-us aftermarket gas cap popped up again after 200 miles of driving...

So, pondering our next steps... getting an OEM gas cap? Looking for the 90degree hose that may be cracked (next to oil dipstick), or maybe Purge EVAP valve is stuck... Hopefully it's one of those and not something more involved...

Our other fix we're researching is a fix for the E brake handle not releasing the handle. Right now, the E brake works but without the handle assembly. My buddy is just pulling the cable with his hands to release the handbrake...

Those two items are next.
 
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