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Discussion Starter #1
i just picked up a 92 saab 9000 for almost nothing. problem is its been sitting for a while and the main problem why its sitting is the clutch pedal is sitting all the way down..

i was told they tried to have the problem fixed a few times, repacing the clutch and related hydrolics etc but it came back, i think a few times.

anyone heard of this? is it common?

thanks. p.s. i know nothing about saabs but anything turbo intrests me and i've turbo'd a few of my cars

also is it normal for the engine to slope down towards the middle? or do i have a broke mount or somthing
 

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It's normal as long as the block is sitting straight, the angle all in the valve cover.
 

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7808 said:
i just picked up a 92 saab 9000 for almost nothing. problem is its been sitting for a while and the main problem why its sitting is the clutch pedal is sitting all the way down..

i was told they tried to have the problem fixed a few times, repacing the clutch and related hydrolics etc but it came back, i think a few times.

anyone heard of this? is it common?

thanks. p.s. i know nothing about saabs but anything turbo intrests me and i've turbo'd a few of my cars

also is it normal for the engine to slope down towards the middle? or do i have a broke mount or somthing
Do a search for clutch bleeding and you will find a lot of information. Be sure to check out the Townsend site also. I recently pressure bled a 92 non-turbo clutch and the pedal had a lot of free-play until I operated the clutch pedal by hand per the Townsend site. Move the clutch pedal down until you encounter resistance and then return it to the up position. Repeat this several times and you should see that the point at which you encounter resistance moves higher with each cycle.
 

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Do a search for "slave cylinder", you may have a broken / leaky one, in which case be prepared to pay someone ~$1,200, unless your a good DIY guy.

Could totally be something else though, air is getting into your system.

The slave is a popular fix, you could even consider it a consumable. Expect it to last around ~75,000 miles


.... oh, and more pics please! :cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
wow ya thats pretty stupid, i was looking at it and the slave is in the transmission, every other car ive worked on (usually honda) its on the outside aND Takes 10 minutes to replace and bleed using a $5 one way bleed valve.



her it is pretty good condition by minnesota standards most cars this age would be rusted badly
 

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7808 said:
i just picked up a 92 saab 9000 for almost nothing. problem is its been sitting for a while and the main problem why its sitting is the clutch pedal is sitting all the way down..

i was told they tried to have the problem fixed a few times, repacing the clutch and related hydrolics etc but it came back, i think a few times.

anyone heard of this? is it common?

thanks. p.s. i know nothing about saabs but anything turbo intrests me and i've turbo'd a few of my cars

also is it normal for the engine to slope down towards the middle? or do i have a broke mount or somthing
Its either the slave or the master (assuming no leaks in the lines). First thing to do is bleed the clutch. The only way I have been able to reliably bleed the clutch is through reverse bleeding, injecting fluid INTO the bleeder at the bell housing. But with an unknown car, I would first bleed some fluid OUT of the bleeder until the fluid runs clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok ill check it out. has anyone ever tried cutting the whole larger in the bell housing to access the slave without removing the transmission? i know sounds crazy but i do stuff like that


also anyone know how to disable the factory alarm? i made the ignition work with a screw driver because the dealer wanted $40 and a title in my name to get me a key. i have the title but im not gona pay to transfer it and get a key just to find out the motor is junk or somthing

i can turn the igntion on but the alarm just goes off as soon as theres jumper cables on it
 

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without the keyfob, you will need the key to unlock the driver door... that will turn the alarm off... you are probably going to need that key, unless you plan on replacing the ignition AND s few locks...
 

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7808 said:
ok ill check it out. has anyone ever tried cutting the whole larger in the bell housing to access the slave without removing the transmission? i know sounds crazy but i do stuff like that
/QUOTE]

I larger hole won't help because the slave cylinder has to be slid over the input shaft of the transmission. That means that the transmission must be separated from the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
fphillips said:
7808 said:
ok ill check it out. has anyone ever tried cutting the whole larger in the bell housing to access the slave without removing the transmission? i know sounds crazy but i do stuff like that
/QUOTE]

I larger hole won't help because the slave cylinder has to be slid over the input shaft of the transmission. That means that the transmission must be separated from the engine.
gotcha. poor engineering
 

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repeated slave/master cylinder replacements

Repeatedly replacing slave and master cylinders on my now-deceased '87 Saab was what finally did in. Each time I replaced it, it would last less and less time, and for slave cylinders in particular, it is expensive to replace everytime you change the oil.

I suspected afterwards that maybe the hydraulic lines themselves were starting to decay and the detritus was clogging up the cylinders. If this has been a problem on this car before, it might be worthwhile to replace those along with the slave and master cylinder and start fresh.
 
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