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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay, this sounds rediculous, but it's true: We have three dogs, and while we were out this evening at dinner, they got ahold of both of the keys to our '03 Saab Vector, and ate them. Both keys are in pieces, and the transponders were broken out of the circuit boards. I have found one of the transponders, but again, it was broken from it's soldered postion on the circuit board.

I have searched the forums, and as of now, I am afraid that this kind of situation will require that we replace the entire ISM, and two new keys, based on the fact that they need the engine running to program new keys.

Is there any suggestion that anyone can make of how I could utilize the transponder that I still have in my possession to start the car so as to allow the dealer to program new keys? I'm willing to pay for new keys, but I am not paying that freaking dealership another $1500 for anything. (They've already taken me for $1500 on another deal where they screwed me, and they're the closest Saab dealership to me, which is important since I'm going to have to have the vehicle towed somewhere).

I have tried to turn the ignition with my finger while holding the transponder close to the ignition, and I have received the following two messages intermitently:

#1: Steering Wheel is Locked. Remove key, Turn Wheel and try again, (not verbatim, but close)

#2: Key is not recognized. Contact Saab dealer.

Help me out guys, I have the damn transponder in my hand, and there has GOT to be something that I can do with it to save my a**...;oops:
 

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mbnickel said:
Help me out guys, I have the damn transponder in my hand, and there has GOT to be something that I can do with it to save my a**...;oops:
If you have the transponder and it is not damaged you should be OK.
You should be able to hold this in the key slot in the car. Push the key location flap thingy down in the bottom of the slot so the car thinks a key is in place and then turn the key place and start the car.
I guess they have not trashed the metal key so that will get you into the car in the first place.
With that transponder you should have enough of a key to identify a key holding owner to the security modules and enable reprogramming with new keys / transponders to the system.
Can you find the other transponder or will it be a couple of days before you see that one? Perhaps you could hold the dog over the ignition?
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
SMHarman said:
If you have the transponder and it is not damaged you should be OK.
You should be able to hold this in the key slot in the car. Push the key location flap thingy down in the bottom of the slot so the car thinks a key is in place and then turn the key place and start the car.
I guess they have not trashed the metal key so that will get you into the car in the first place.
With that transponder you should have enough of a key to identify a key holding owner to the security modules and enable reprogramming with new keys / transponders to the system.
Can you find the other transponder or will it be a couple of days before you see that one? Perhaps you could hold the dog over the ignition?
Good luck.
It will not start. (I edited my original post to say this). I am getting two different SID messages as to the following:

#1: Steering wheel is locked. Remove key, turn steering wheel and try again, (or something very close to that).

#2: Key not recognized. Contact Saab dealer.

Do you know whether the "transponder" actually needs to be connected to the circuit board inside the key fob? (Another thread about a similar situation to mine, someone stated that it wasn't necessary). If it is, I may possibly be able to have an electronics guy I know resolder it to the circuit board so as to recieve power from the battery, (if that is actually necessary).

Thanks...
 

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The battery is not used for this - that's only for the remote operation. There is an RFID chip in the fob which is interrogated by the console when the fob is inserted. This does not require battery power. However, it may require circuitry on the board to be intact.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
sbl said:
The battery is not used for this - that's only for the remote operation. There is an RFID chip in the fob which is interrogated by the console when the fob is inserted. This does not require battery power. However, it may require circuitry on the board to be intact.
Okay, the RFID chip must be the item that I am referring to as the "transponder". (Someone in another thread referred to it as that, so I ran with that name).

I have found that chip from one of the keys, (the other one is more than likely found inside of one of my dogs, and we are not sure which one is the culprit), and it is definitely not in contact with the circuit board.

I'll take a picture of the circuit board, the chip and the key, and post it. Is there any way by looking, (if I post a pretty detailed picture from different angles), that you might be able to tell me whether an electronics genius might be able to re-solder it to the board, or whether it is "FUBAR-ed"?

I am praying that there is a way to either repair the key w/ the pieces that I have, (I was able to put two of the pieces together to make contact with the circuit board and get all of the "buttons" to work, (lock, unlock, trunk, panic), but with that RFID chip off of the circuit board, I may just be wishful thinking.

X: (the "X" is my fingers being crossed):cry:
 

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Take the best macro shot of the circuit board or the remains and post it here. I am sure we'd be able to tell you then.
 

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OK, I just re-read your post about putting boards together and able to unlock and lock the car. That's good news. That means the integrated circuit (i.c.) is intact and working. If you can find someone to swap the i.c. chip for you. I can do it for you but I am in Singapore! It'll take at least 1 week to send the stuff to me and back to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
epsilon93 said:
Take the best macro shot of the circuit board or the remains and post it here. I am sure we'd be able to tell you then.
Here is the best I was able to take:


 

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Ouch. That chip has been physically damaged and I would not hold out much hope for being able to repair it.
 

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OK, there is hope yet. That broken piece is not the "chip" itself. It is just the pickup inductor which is why your key fob buttons still work. The i.c. on your circuit board is the important piece. I am pretty sure you can salvage and repair it (at least I think I can). You need an electronics expert who can do very fine soldering to help you do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
sbl said:
Ouch. That chip has been physically damaged and I would not hold out much hope for being able to repair it.
Great... that was kinda what I was afraid of...

What about any other options as for gettinbg the car started. Anone out there know any other tricks so as to get it started and have keys programmed w/o having to have the entire ISM replaced? I am already OOW, so I'm not worried about voiding it or anything. I need a way to fix the car as inexpensively and quickly as possible.

Thanks if anyone has any suggestions.
 

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sbl said:
Ouch. That chip has been physically damaged and I would not hold out much hope for being able to repair it.
Yes, that piece may be broken beyond repair but it is just the pickup inductor. The i.c. on the circuit board in the key fob is the important piece. That is where the code is stored. The pickup inductor is how the key fob communicates with the key slot/ECU. Instead of using an antenna/RF it uses magnetic induction with a very weak field. This prevents snooping.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
epsilon93 said:
OK, there is hope yet. That broken piece is not the "chip" itself. It is just the pickup inductor which is why your key fob buttons still work. The i.c. on your circuit board is the important piece. I am pretty sure you can salvage and repair it (at least I think I can). You need an electronics expert who can do very fine soldering to help you do this.
I've got the guy, I have just been holding out on calling him until hearing more about what I actually need him to do.

So are you saying that I will need to have that "pickup inductor" re-soldered on, and then what...

(I apologize in advance for my ignorance of the internal electronics and terms...)
 

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mbnickel said:
Great... that was kinda what I was afraid of...

What about any other options as for gettinbg the car started. Anone out there know any other tricks so as to get it started and have keys programmed w/o having to have the entire ISM replaced? I am already OOW, so I'm not worried about voiding it or anything. I need a way to fix the car as inexpensively and quickly as possible.

Thanks if anyone has any suggestions.
Ok, here is a quick and dirty fix (maybe not so quick). Requires a used keyfob or a new one (if you can afford it). You can easily procure one from eBay or from your dealer if you are willing to pay. Doesn't need to be a working keyfob but it must have that broken piece intact. Have someone good with electronics and soldering swap the good "broken part" (the inductor chip) with the one from the good new/used keyfob. It should work and I think that is your best bet without having to replace the entire ISM module.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
epsilon93 said:
Yes, that piece may be broken beyond repair but it is just the pickup inductor. The i.c. on the circuit board in the key fob is the important piece. That is where the code is stored. The pickup inductor is how the key fob communicates with the key slot/ECU. Instead of using an antenna/RF it uses magnetic induction with a very weak field. This prevents snooping.
I have an old key, that is not damaged internally at all. It had been deleted from the car when the dealership gave us the replacement keys, (recall, or TSB). It has a similar looking pickup inductor on it, would it be possible to remove the one that is NOT damaged from the old key circuit board, and then attach it to the new key circuit board, (the damaged one), and get it to work?

Will post another picture so that you can see the difference between the pickup inductor from the old key to the new one.

Thanks again for all of your help and suggestions. I'm glad someone on this board is not only knowledgeable enough to be able to answer, but also courteous enough to do so...:D
 

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mbnickel said:
I've got the guy, I have just been holding out on calling him until hearing more about what I actually need him to do.

So are you saying that I will need to have that "pickup inductor" re-soldered on, and then what...

(I apologize in advance for my ignorance of the internal electronics and terms...)
That broken inductor is broken beyond repair. You need a new one if you can find one. I have already made a posting on how you can possibly fix it.
 

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mbnickel said:
I have an old key, that is not damaged internally at all. It had been deleted from the car when the dealership gave us the replacement keys, (recall, or TSB). It has a similar looking pickup inductor on it, would it be possible to remove the one that is NOT damaged from the old key circuit board, and then attach it to the new key circuit board, (the damaged one), and get it to work?

Will post another picture so that you can see the difference between the pickup inductor from the old key to the new one.

Thanks again for all of your help and suggestions. I'm glad someone on this board is not only knowledgeable enough to be able to answer, but also courteous enough to do so...:D
Great then, you have all you need. Just swap the inductor from the old one to the broken one. It's your best bet.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
epsilon93 said:
Great then, you have all you need. Just swap the inductor from the old one to the broken one. It's your best bet.
I really appreciate your help, epsilon93. I just called my guy, and he understood exactly what was going on before I even explained what you suggested to do. I'm going to meet with him tomorrow at 10am, and he said he knows he can do it. I also checked the other key, (which is missing the same inductor), and it will lock/unlock the doors as well, so if necessary, if we cannot make one work, at least I may have a spare that we could try as well.

Thanks again, and I'll post updates tomorrow as soon as I get this done.:D
 

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epsilon93 said:
Ok, here is a quick and dirty fix (maybe not so quick). Requires a used keyfob or a new one (if you can afford it). You can easily procure one from eBay or from your dealer if you are willing to pay. Doesn't need to be a working keyfob but it must have that broken piece intact. Have someone good with electronics and soldering swap the good "broken part" (the inductor chip) with the one from the good new/used keyfob. It should work and I think that is your best bet without having to replace the entire ISM module.

I have seen the keys on Ebay for sale for around $20
 
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