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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

just managed to installed a mechanical bost guage on my 01'95 Auto BSR stage1 this evening.

Just wonder, at stage 1 BSR, can anyone advice me their boost guage reading?? city driving below 80km/h I seems not able to get reading above 0.4bar. mostly around 0.2-0.3 bar?? anything wrong with my car??

also if anyone can advice what is the highest boost possible for stage1 BSR...

thanks in advance,

sam
 

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Samuel, what engine have you got? My 2.0lpt should run a max of .5 bar boost pressure. With the Maptun stg 2, it runs approx .8 bar, maybe a little more but it does get quite hairy to look at the boost gauge and not crash. :roll: :cheesy:
 
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Dont forget that boost will vary.... If the air mass request is met easily, ie the conditions are good, cool air, humidity etc the boost will be less. If the car is hot and the air mass request is not being met then the boost will get higher to try and meet it.. (Within limits) My car is a slightly different spec to yours but boost can vary from about .6 to 1.3bar. remember also that boost is generally retarded in first and second gear, this puts possible full boost for 3rd gear upwards. As Kermit points out you are generally then going at break neck speed and watching boostie gauges is a scary excersize :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys,


mine is 95 auto 01', stock car is 185bhp and I have it BSR stage 1 upgraded. no other mod till now...only thinging of the forgemotor BOV next month..

I have been reading the guage these few days...normall running is about 0.2-0.3 bar while picking speed from 0-100 and occassional overtaking...some time it did went up to 0.4bar while hard overtaking...but never hit 0.5bar...all these is done below 120km/h and in sport mode...

But one funny thing is that when I filter out from slip road onto highway, I tried to floor the pedal and the guage went to something like 0.1bar while the are is propelling from 30-120 in short time...funny.

I am trying to interprete the reading so that I can monitor the car performance...but seems like not quite true reflection of the power and guage reading...I thought that it should read sometime like the rpm or speedo...

yah..it is quite scary reading the guage while flooring it...maybe the excitement of looking at it will go away in few days...

cheers,

sam
 

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Boost gauge tee'ed in here Sam....



Bit difficult to see, its the clear tubing just above the red/white valve.
 
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I am still confused with this thread. I have always had up to 1.5 bar boost :confused: on my 2ltr Do you think its a year thing ?? Or perhaps an auto manual difference :confused:
 
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XAAMOTTOMAAX said:
Could be your upgraded turbo Finn. I know the Aero Mitsu turbo can boost over 20psi.
Xaam, I used to boost to 1.5bar on the original turbo :confused:
 
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XAAMOTTOMAAX said:
Was the car tuned by Abbott prior to the turbo install? Maybe your car just has more juevos than most? :cool:
Maybe thats it, I had the Abbott ECU with delivery and intake pipe, but Kermit has a maptun ECU and he doesnt get huge boost. Perhaps its the delivery and intake.. :confused: What does the aero boost at??
 

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I'd bet its the ECU. The Aero in stock form boosts to similar levels (20psi which I think is 1.4 bar). I'm boosting a little higher with the BSR ECU but the installation of the delivery pipe as well as opening the intake did not cause an increase in boost (at least on the stock guage which contrary to popular belief is fairly accurate).
 
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So the Abbott ecu is using similar boost pressure to the Aero map. So what are maptun doing to gain thier power if they are not increasing boost. Advanced timing ?
 

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What did they change when the turbo was upgraded? If the difference is that significant, there had to have been some sort of modification to the turbo compressor. Auto vs. manual probably has something to do with it as well. I'm not sure exactly what goes into ECU tuning but I would imagine timing, fuel quantity and boost are all modified.
 

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Maptun seems to tune maybe more conservatively than some others. What I mean by that is they seem to go on the idea that it is safer, for engine reliability and longetivity, to make the same amount of power using the least amount of boost possible? in other words, why boost at 20 psi if you can make the same HP on 16psi and a bit more timing and fuel (or however the magic happens)? at least that is how I understand, being that i don't know Swedish and they do the best they can with English. (which is pretty darn good!) So they probably do somethng else with fueling or timing? I do know they have some really amazing knowledge of t7. ;)

other tuners might make the same power by using lots of boost.

my maptun stage 1 was hitting 1.4-1.5 bar the other day! today the temp was very different, so it was only making 1.2 bar. so temperature and other ambient conditions can also play into the amount of boost one might see...
 

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abdukted1456 said:
Maptun seems to tune maybe more conservatively than some others. What I mean by that is they seem to go on the idea that it is safer, for engine reliability and longetivity, to make the same amount of power using the least amount of boost possible? in other words, why boost at 20 psi if you can make the same HP on 16psi and a bit more timing and fuel (or however the magic happens)? at least that is how I understand, being that i don't know Swedish and they do the best they can with English. (which is pretty darn good!) So they probably do somethng else with fueling or timing? I do know they have some really amazing knowledge of t7. ;)

other tuners might make the same power by using lots of boost.

my maptun stage 1 was hitting 1.4-1.5 bar the other day! today the temp was very different, so it was only making 1.2 bar. so temperature and other ambient conditions can also play into the amount of boost one might see...
I'm not sure if conservatively is the right word because just like upping boost, if you advance timing too much you are not going to have a good a/f ratio and problems can occur. They are conservative in that they do not attempt to force as much power out of their respective stages as other tuners do with similar stages though. I believe (but could be wrong) there are only 4 Saab tuners that can currently perform complete and comprehensive Trionic 7 ECU tuning of all parameters...Hirch, Maptun, Nordic and SQR. BUT that does not mean that an ECU can not be tweaked for more power and proper fueling using more simple means and methods and this is what I believe Abbott and Powerchips do with their ECU's. This is not a knock against either and I do have a tendency to speculate a lot so I could be way off.
 

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I think the autos run lower boost in 1st and 2nd to protect the box, trying to look at the gauge in 3rd and 4th is a no no because you're over 80 changing to 4th! I'm more concerned with the road at that point :roll:
 
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Kermits 9-5 said:
I think the autos run lower boost in 1st and 2nd to protect the box, trying to look at the gauge in 3rd and 4th is a no no because you're over 80 changing to 4th! I'm more concerned with the road at that point :roll:
Boost limited in the manual as well :( :confused:
 

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Finn said:
Boost limited in the manual as well :( :confused:
if you are brave you can ask the tuners to remove it in second, not sure if you would get anything but spinning wheels if removed in 1st, kind of no point to that. I know of at least 1 person with Maptun who had them remove the boost limit in 2nd. :eek:
 
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