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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Every nown and again over the last few weeks i've been getting my coolant leaking from under the resevoir cap, i dont seem to loose very much and it only seems to do it when i park up & switch the engine off. I took it on a 40-50 mile round trip on sunday and checked the car when i got where i was going and when i got home, no coolant loss, today i drove 6 miles in light traffic to a friends house and then back a couple of hours later, when i got home and popped the bonnet and after a minute or so the coolant started to boil and actually bubble/steam out from under the resevoir cap, i have'nt checked to seem how much i've lost this time but any idea what the problem is?

Also....problem 2, when i pulled in at my friends house i think i clipped the curve(did'nt think much of it at the time), on the way back i had to drive very slowly as it sounded like someone was shaking a pot of dice on the LH side of the car, i'm sure i could feel a very light knocking comming from the brake pedal and i could feel tapping throught the floor.

I think the coolant problem was excaggerated by the slow drive & i've got a FMIC so air flow is lower to the rad, i've wired in a second cooling fan on a switch which i turn on at traffic light etc if the temp gauge is rising.

So is the shaking dice noise the remains of my wheel bearing and any idea why i seem to be boiling coolant when i switch the engine off?
 

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Si,


just sounds like you need a "new" rad header tank cap there cheap-ish IIRC under £20...

as for having a FMIC making the car run hotter ie stopping the airflow, I've never had a problem with running one..

how old is your rad ? if its old & sludged up it won't work to its full potential ;)


HTH Paul

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pda said:
Si,
just sounds like you need a "new" rad header tank cap there cheap-ish IIRC under £20...
yep, definately do this first! - tis one of the cheapest and easiest bit of the cooling system to replace and it can cause major problems. I've been there!

If youre still having problems after this then consider doing the radiator too. If its the original then its surely due for replacement by now.
My old 900 used to boil up when i parked it sometimes. I replaced the rad and the cap and it solved it (and it made my 'leccy fan work too!).

Does your electric fan kick in as it should too? it should run when you park the car up and turn it off too. If it doesnt then check the switch first.
Sometimes you may have to flush out the radiator or even replace it to get enough flow past the radiator fan switch so that it is triggered! (in my experience)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Radiator

I swapped in the rad with the engine & box, it was leaking slightly and it's had some rad weld added, it's on the list to replace just wanted to get the car up and running, sort any other issues out first.

I've already swapped the cap for the one off the parts car, both coolant caps have 4 channels running down through the thread, i guess that's so it can over flow? Should there be a rubber washer around the base of the coolant cap to seal it up?

I'm going to concerntrate on the wheel bearing yhatzee sound (that's what it reminded me off, playing Yhatzee) for the mean time as without that sorted i won't be able to run the car anyway.
 

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We like Yahtzee :)

There's a pressure valve in the expansion tank cap. The cap keeps the cooling system under pressure in order to prevent the coolant from boiling. If the valve fails then the coolant will boil and piss out of the cap. If engine temperatures spiral out of control then the valve will open and vent, thus preventing something else from going pop.

Grab a few caps for pennies from the scrapyard :) Although I guess they're all 12+ years old now and a bit tired.

You can buy caps with an uprated valve. Tuners of other cars sometimes use those on their engines.

There should be a rubber seal that fits into the cap.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yhatzee

Guess you know what i mean then by that sound:cheesy: , So much reminded me of that game, but i may have misinterpreted another prob which i new about, chattering solenoid valve, i've got a replacement but i think it's more to do with the connections to it than the valve it'self so the yhatzee sound may have been that rebounding off the wall at the side of the road and back into the cabin, there's def something up with one of the wheels though, also picked up on a sound like when you've got something stuck in your tyre, i checked all 4 and could'nt find anything so it must be mechanical.

Anyway will get it up on stands tonight and have a look. If i find anything disasterous i'll get some pic's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
8v noises

On about 1 in 4 clutch drops when i'm idling/pulling away i get an odd ereererererereere noise, if i let it back out and then drop it again it does'nt do it, think i'll just re-bleed it, then strip the one off the parts car, just incase there's a problem.

I had the opposite on the other one, when the clutch was out it would make the noise, bought a release bearing but never got around to fitting it.

Then there's the tractor noise from the manifold when the cars cold, i know that's def the manifold as it was making the same noise on the other engine....I want to swap back to the oil/water cooled garrett turbo i've got though so i'll sort that out at the same time, prob just wait until i've got the 3" downpipe and do it all at once.

Alternator issues have gone away (i think) still don't get the battery light comming on at all but i'm even daring to run the stereo & lights and still no problems.

It's a bit like painting the severn bridge, by the time you get to one end you've got to go back and start all over again:cheesy: .

My cars like a badly timed 1 man band.
 

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Si said:
On about 1 in 4 clutch drops when i'm idling/pulling away i get an odd ereererererereere noise, if i let it back out and then drop it again it does'nt do it
That's the clutch release bearing. Sounds like it's not in a bad way, but my advice would be to replace it before the bearing breaks up. Take a look here to find out what happened when I neglected the release bearing on my 900T ;oops: ;oops:
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35662

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
One man bands lost half of his instruments

2 down, 2 to go!

:eek: The wheel nuts on my NS were loose. I've never seen that before, i've had the wheels on and off 00's of times and they've always been tight, never had any seem loose when i've taken a wheel off. It's been on the ground for about 2 months and i've put atleast 100 miles on it since, only thing i can think of is when i knocked the curb it some how started them to loosen.

I'll have to go for a drive and check it's OK, make sure nothing else has been damaged.

Replaced the plug & wiring to the solenoid control valve, thats stopped clicking, so just tractor noises and erererere to go.

Which special tools am i going to need to replace the release bearing, assuming i do it whilst the clutch still works? The latter half of the pictures on the other thread were missing so i could'nt see all of the surgery.

I bought a mechanics stethoscope a while back and used it for the first time today, it's worth the £10 i paid just to hear the cam & timing chain, i want to record it, cool sounds. Tried the alternator aswell, that sounded evil like the background noises to some dark japanese movie(can't remember the classic one) .
 

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Si said:
Which special tools am i going to need to replace the release bearing, assuming i do it whilst the clutch still works? The latter half of the pictures on the other thread were missing so i could'nt see all of the surgery.
You only need the circular clutch tool that holds the fingers on the plate compressed while you take the slave out. PFS sell them.
Its basically just a metal ring. you pop it almost in place, press the pedal and it jumps into position and holds the clutch plate fingers down for you.

You can do it without one using mains cable or a HT lead instead, but this is loads harder! Its definately worth spending £15 on the proper tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
clutch tool

I've got some 6mm zinc coated steel wire (for allotment) which i could use, any idea of the dimensions of the special ring? I've seen it before on PFS and it looks quite simple to copy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
wire

It's pretty hardcore stuff, not like that green plastic coated stuff, you need bolt cutters to cut it, it's also got a bit of spring to it, i guess i could heat it and drop it in a tub of water to stiffen it so that it does'nt bend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
pics

They are comming up now, i think the hamster in the wheel powering my internet connection must have died and BT have now replaced it.

I think the hamsters getting tired, the bottom few are'nt showing, i'll give it a few mins to recover and have another loo.
 
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