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Probably, this seemed like a good idea.



It was not.
Probably, this seemed like a good idea.



It was not.

I have noticed over the years that even the standard globe at standard wattage will damage ( warp and discolour) that box But yeah Not a good idea , LEDS work well overcomes one of the most annoying short falls of a 900 . Hopefully you have a sapre , am sure you will have :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Is that the tranny mount washer from a 9000?
It could be! But it was on the floor of this SPG. That means nothing as all sorts of stuff was, though. It really looks like it's from a Saab, but I don't recall seeing one in a 900 specifically.

I have noticed over the years that even the standard globe at standard wattage will damage ( warp and discolour) that box But yeah Not a good idea , LEDS work well overcomes one of the most annoying short falls of a 900 . Hopefully you have a sapre , am sure you will have :)
I have a spare that's destined for the 5-door. :/ So now I gotta find one. Blah.
 

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It could be! But it was on the floor of this SPG. That means nothing as all sorts of stuff was, though. It really looks like it's from a Saab, but I don't recall seeing one in a 900 specifically.
Actually car fixer may be onto it , didnt the Barrel style transmission mount ( not the Hyd) use similar tabs on the through bolt , Its a long time since I have seen a barrel mount , but do have memory of such a clip , and its greasy to the extent you would exclude interior....
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
It could be that too. I have that on my '85 but I haven't looked at it much less touched it for a decade... I will today!
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 · (Edited)
Craaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap.

Got the new heater control valve in today, so I proceeded to pressure test the cooling system. That did not work. After literally several hours I tracked the leak down to here:



Well, not actually there... that manifold is in the garage.. :/

The bottom of the manifold on the car is - well, I thought - flawless, but maybe not flat? Or the head isn't? I've seriously never run into this before.

Guess I got some disassembling to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
Yep, the flange on the manifold is not flat. It's bowed in the middle, which explains the leak in the middle. I have never ever run into this before on a Saab. WTF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #171 ·
I pulled the manifold back off and dropped it off at the machine shop. I just want it done right, and they're the ones that can do it. How does something like this happen?
 

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Repeated heat cycling +/- unevenly torqued bolts can cause some bowing over time...that would be my guess
 

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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
That's all I got as well, but that seems really strange on an aluminum intake manifold. It just doesn't get that hot, and the bolts aren't that tight. Real weird.
 

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Regarding the washer, it looks so familiar but for the life of me I can't place it. It indexes into something and judging by the grease residue I'm going with it being suspension related, and it mounts low so it catches all the leaks (guessing at 450k it had a few).

I'm helping a friend finish parting out his wrecked 94' com edition vert with super low miles (28k), so it's getting picked clean. So I'm gonna keep my eyes open because I need to know what this is!
 

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Now that the engine bay is back together, I figured something else should come apart....



It all fits nicely back here...



During this process I found this... it seems familiar, but I can't place it. Does anyone know what it is?

EHHHHH! I was totally wrong. That washer fits in the mount for the rear seat back (seat back hinges on this). I hope there was a second one. If not, let me know because I have extra's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
Ah, this makes some sense. There was an extra rear seat in the trunk when I got the car... I'm betting random hardware that went with it as well.

NICE FIND.
 

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Discussion Starter · #177 ·
This is more along the lines of what I wanted to see....



I lost .5psi over 90 minutes, which I attribute to an imperfect seal on the coolant reservoir - the air bladder that keeps the seal slowly loses air and the seal breaks. It kept perfect pressure for over 45 minutes. I'm calling it good.

Engine bay is together again, so back to the Jetronic wiring!

I sent the speedometer off for "reprogramming" and odometer fix last week.. hopefully I'll get it back next week. At that point, I could probably start the car!
 

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
I invented this today:



I'm not sure it worked, but maybe it did. :D

Engine bay is together, all the fluids are filled (well, distilled water in the cooling system), the wiring is 99.9% done. As soon as I get the speedometer back I think it's driveable.... albeit with a very messy dash situation.

I still need to work on the AC, and I'm going to have to figure something out for the dash. It's trashed, and justdashes.com is up to $1200 for repair. :/ I'm thinking I may try a "I saw it on youtube" repair. It could work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
I decided to go through the cabin vacuum hose situation... no point having a dash apart and leaving rubber behind. Plus, I wanted to remove the now-useless boost fuel cut doodad (LH 2.4 controls that directly...). While doing that, I noticed this relay holder was oddly destroyed...



I bent the bracket back into shape, and swapped the wiring over to a good one.



Devil's in the details, right? Also, how did that get all broken in the first place? IDK.

I discovered quickly the clutch & brake switches were no good - they did not hold vacuum, and were not electrically switching. I wasn't sure how fixable they were, but I figured I should definitely take them apart.



Inside is a plunger, spring, and contact. Not much.



The internal contact strip slides right out, so I did that and cleaned everything up.



The electrical problem turns out to be this guy....



It seems over time it must get a bit smashed... spreading out the "legs" a little so they align properly with the contract strip cures the electrical issue...



The vacuum issue seems to be a combination of things, but the big culprit I think is this orange o-ring:



I used some very sticky grease to improve the seal....



On one switch, this worked perfectly. On the other, there is a still a very slight vacuum leak. I really don't know what the duty cycle of the pump is like, I don't know whether this is going to be a real issue or not. I'm gonna look for some better o-rings.

I'm not even sure the cruise control will work properly with the LH 2.4 speed signal... I think it will, but I don't know it will. So I'm a little hesitant to put big effort into this. New o-rings I'll do, but I'm not going to try and source new switches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #180 ·
Regarding your speedometer quarry, I've had good results with Overseas Speedometer (they're in Texas)

I haven't gotten it back yet, but these guys (this guy?) Was really pleasant to work with. Responded to emails about how & how much, let me know when he received the speedo, and called to confirm the nature of the repairs and the return shipping.

I wouldn't say the experience was better than Palo Alto Speedometer, but at 60% the cost I would probably make the same choice again. PA Speedo is great, but $130 is a huge price premium!
 
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