SaabCentral Forums banner

21 - 28 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,581 Posts
You can get the speaker covers off a convertible without pulling the a-pillar covers, but don't try it in the cold. I hit the plastic with a small heat gun for a few seconds to soften it up, then it'll slide out. Warm 'em up again before slipping them back in (and be careful not to puncture a cone!).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,258 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
You can get the speaker covers off a convertible without pulling the a-pillar covers, but don't try it in the cold. I hit the plastic with a small heat gun for a few seconds to soften it up, then it'll slide out. Warm 'em up again before slipping them back in (and be careful not to puncture a cone!).
I got them off with no problem, but there was no way they wanted to go back in. Maybe if I melted, er, warmed them up they would had. I tried putting paper under the seal, masking tape and a thin prying implement, etc. Finally I decided it wasn't worth screwing up the a-pillar covers (I'm not in Saab country anymore and u-pulls don't have many around here).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,581 Posts
I can't blame you for that! :D Hey, just be happy they're not Saab 9000 a-pillar covers.... those things broke if you looked at them wrong!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,258 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Got my tranny rebolted (other thread).

Since I had the car in the air, I decided to put my long idling used subframe brace on. Turned into a bit of a custom excursion since the riv-nuts just didn't want to tighten up. I think I could have bolted the brace on tight but I wasn't confident I'd be able to undo them in the future without the rivnuts spinning in the holes.

Ended up putting studs in the rivnuts with flange nuts on them to tighten against external lockwashers holding the rivnuts from turning. Locked those in tight. Then I put the brace on and used nuts on the other side to hold the brace ends on. Seems to have worked out nicely.

Need to get the car aligned ASAP. I'm sure it's way off with the subframe having been off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,258 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Yeah... GS's stuff is SAE threads. If I could have found 10mm riv-nuts locally, I would have used metric. One day I may get around to ordering some "heavy duty twist resistant" riv-nuts from McMaster Carr scroll down to the heavy duty hex section... I think they would solve my issue McMaster-Carr) and drilling the others out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,258 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Got the post-swap alignment done today.

It was surprisingly close before alignment, considering there was no action taken to make sure the subframe went back on in the same place during the swap... and that I twice manually tweaked the steering angle to get the wheel straight again a couple weeks back.

Numbers were very close to the last alignment I had done before storing it. Camber changed a little in front. I could porbably fix that if I wanted to move the subframe but it's minimal. Rear toe is off a bit, not sure if I want to try to tweak that with shims.

If I buy into the Hunter machine's algorithm for rear wheel toe compensation, it's dead on center for toe on the Viggen specs. Not so sure I like that algorithm, but Hunter probably knows better than me.
 
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
Top