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You can get the speaker covers off a convertible without pulling the a-pillar covers, but don't try it in the cold. I hit the plastic with a small heat gun for a few seconds to soften it up, then it'll slide out. Warm 'em up again before slipping them back in (and be careful not to puncture a cone!).
 

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Discussion Starter #22
You can get the speaker covers off a convertible without pulling the a-pillar covers, but don't try it in the cold. I hit the plastic with a small heat gun for a few seconds to soften it up, then it'll slide out. Warm 'em up again before slipping them back in (and be careful not to puncture a cone!).
I got them off with no problem, but there was no way they wanted to go back in. Maybe if I melted, er, warmed them up they would had. I tried putting paper under the seal, masking tape and a thin prying implement, etc. Finally I decided it wasn't worth screwing up the a-pillar covers (I'm not in Saab country anymore and u-pulls don't have many around here).
 

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I can't blame you for that! :D Hey, just be happy they're not Saab 9000 a-pillar covers.... those things broke if you looked at them wrong!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Got my tranny rebolted (other thread).

Since I had the car in the air, I decided to put my long idling used subframe brace on. Turned into a bit of a custom excursion since the riv-nuts just didn't want to tighten up. I think I could have bolted the brace on tight but I wasn't confident I'd be able to undo them in the future without the rivnuts spinning in the holes.

Ended up putting studs in the rivnuts with flange nuts on them to tighten against external lockwashers holding the rivnuts from turning. Locked those in tight. Then I put the brace on and used nuts on the other side to hold the brace ends on. Seems to have worked out nicely.

Need to get the car aligned ASAP. I'm sure it's way off with the subframe having been off.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yeah... GS's stuff is SAE threads. If I could have found 10mm riv-nuts locally, I would have used metric. One day I may get around to ordering some "heavy duty twist resistant" riv-nuts from McMaster Carr scroll down to the heavy duty hex section... I think they would solve my issue McMaster-Carr) and drilling the others out.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Got the post-swap alignment done today.

It was surprisingly close before alignment, considering there was no action taken to make sure the subframe went back on in the same place during the swap... and that I twice manually tweaked the steering angle to get the wheel straight again a couple weeks back.

Numbers were very close to the last alignment I had done before storing it. Camber changed a little in front. I could porbably fix that if I wanted to move the subframe but it's minimal. Rear toe is off a bit, not sure if I want to try to tweak that with shims.

If I buy into the Hunter machine's algorithm for rear wheel toe compensation, it's dead on center for toe on the Viggen specs. Not so sure I like that algorithm, but Hunter probably knows better than me.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Had to change the center console. My NG900 console had a broken lip in the rear (the part that holds the rear section of the console on).

Since I liked the black paint I used on the key area cover (need the 9-3 version of the cover and it's gray only), and since I also could not get an armrest with black plastic, and since all the plastic bits looked tired, I decided to paint everything with the same black paint (ref: above). I didn't do the front of the console... will do that at a future date.

I also needed to recover the leather part of the armrest. It had been dyed from gray to black long ago but it was all cracked and dying. I used some black pleather from a standard OG9-3 seat back pocket. It's much more flexible than Saab leather and matches well aside from the grain pattern.

The broken console to be replaced:



The painted parts (not the e-brake boot, it was already blacked). Color variations are not really there - the sun was very bright and was creating odd prism effects:



The new console top upholstered and remounted:

 

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Discussion Starter #30
Still tweaking things back into shape. Letting a car sit for almost two years apparently isn't a good thing. Who knew?

Emergency brake tightened up nicely. I though it was going to need a cable (rust from sitting unused), but surprisingly it just needed some adjustment and love.

Got a metal cover back on the TB / cable. Not sure it matters, but it was lost in the shuffle. Neatness counts.

Installed a few other engine bay bits that looked much better than what I had. Complete waste of time, but owning a Saab means wasting a lot of time regardless. Might as well have it make me happy.

Got a replacement ground cable installed from transmission to chassis. The old one was either broken already or got snapped when the engine came out. Leaning towards the latter. Newer 9-5 cable in place now.

Retweaked the alignment today. It wasn't quite centered and oddly seemed to be getting worse. Maybe it was an illusion. Either way, I've yet to find an alignment mechanic who actually levels the steering wheel before aligning. It's close to perfect now. The car feels much better with it on track... Even with the toe-in at proper settings, until you have it set so that the wheel is level it's not just annoying, it tracks wrong. Getting it spot on adds a new dimension to the car. I've decided I really don't like the Hunter thrust angle factor. I'll tell them to skip that next time.

SRS still giving me trouble (other thread)... stereo project proceeding on the back burner (other thread)... and antenna improvement project moving to phase II (yet another thread). I have to pull the console yet again when I do the SRS, so I'l take the antenna to phase II. Should be tomorrow, I hate lights on the dash.
 
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