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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This morning was the first time i had noticed the blue smoke, but it was only at startup, and after school when i went to start the car there was no smoke, i recently observerd oil on my turbo where it connects to the blow by tube and i cleaned the oil off and the blow by tube and since then i have had no more oil in that area. I have never done a pcv fix or flushed my engine. Im considering sometime soon dropping my oild pan and looking for sludge. What kind of flush agent should i use, and is it neccesary to do a pvc fix.
 

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Ive experienced the "startup smoke" about 6 times in the past year. I was JUST about to order the pcv kit, when I stubmeld across this, searching Google..

" The crank case ventilation fix kit installation. The fix is applied according to the Saab service bulletin 210-2417 from Oct'2003, and intended to prevent potential oil leaks and decrease oil consumption. The kit is supplied by Saab, part #5962428 (Canadian part #30593216). UPDATE: This fix has been discontinued by Saab as of 14.1.2005 after they received numerous complaints about increased oil consumptions. If you have performed this modification, you need to return the car to the original configuration (or at least move the small vent hose from the oil filler pipe back to the nipple on the valve cover)."


So now, I'm concerned.. I have oil leaks around the front crank seal, and a couple other places.. The confusing part is, the 9-5 only has 61k mi. It's not like it's wore out or anything..






I'm at a loss, now, as for what to do..
 

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qwikxr said:
Ive experienced the "startup smoke" about 6 times in the past year. I was JUST about to order the pcv kit, when I stubmeld across this, searching Google..

" The crank case ventilation fix kit installation. The fix is applied according to the Saab service bulletin 210-2417 from Oct'2003, and intended to prevent potential oil leaks and decrease oil consumption. The kit is supplied by Saab, part #5962428 (Canadian part #30593216). UPDATE: This fix has been discontinued by Saab as of 14.1.2005 after they received numerous complaints about increased oil consumptions. If you have performed this modification, you need to return the car to the original configuration (or at least move the small vent hose from the oil filler pipe back to the nipple on the valve cover)."


So now, I'm concerned.. I have oil leaks around the front crank seal, and a couple other places.. The confusing part is, the 9-5 only has 61k mi. It's not like it's wore out or anything..


I'm at a loss, now, as for what to do..
my car has 65,000 miles and the turbo already blew.... blue smoke due to oil getting into the turbo... just recently to did the crank vent fix cuz i checked the hoses and they were very very mushy. so check your hoses or better yet get the kit.

also they don't offer the kit you quoted there anymore, they have a new one that works very well.
 

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thanks.. yeah, last night I ordered Rev.6 of the PCV kit, thingy from GenuineSaab. We'll see how it goes, I suppose.
 

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qwikxr said:
The fix is applied according to the Saab service bulletin 210-2417 from Oct'2003, and intended to prevent potential oil leaks and decrease oil consumption.
Thats an older bulletin - The latest fix is version 6. There are threads with pictures here and on other forums to help install it. Search for things like "PCV fix" or look for messages (stickies) at the lot of the list. I think there are a few other hoses which are not replaced by the Version 6 kit which are worth checking/replacing too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
does anyone know a safe motor flush i can use? Also has anyone dropped there oil pan before? What should i look for can i scrape the sludge out or should i just try and flush it?
 

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In my experiance flushing wont clear it but it will help loosen it and drag the crud from the top end down. When you drop the sump remove the splash plate (4x torx30) and then remove the pick-up (2x torx30). Youll probably find a nice pile of sludge just sitting there under the pick-up gauze. You will want to clean it right out including cleaning the gauze. A tip is to fill the oil pan with hot water mixed with wheel acid and leave it for a while to soak in. This will make it much easier to clean out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
do you have to take off the down pipe to remove the oil pan? Also will i need to replace the oil pan gasket?
 

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Yes the downpipe needs removing and the oil sump seal is a red sealer paste that is compression seal. You clean the sump and block up well and apply a bead of sealer on the surfaces.
The sump doesnt just come out past the subframe however. Youll need to either raise the engine or lower the subframe slightly. I ALways remove the top engine mount and raise the engine up with a bar across the top of the engine pulling up on the lifting eye.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i just ordered the pvc kit hopefully that will work, however today when i went to start my car it started.. but then it stalled but then started right up again and this happened the day befor its also about 60 degrees otuside so its fairly warm also i did just change my cps so i dont think its that could it be the sludge?
 

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It could be a sensor. I believe for some faults, it takes 3 consecutive faults at start-up to trigger the cel. So if it only happens once and awhile, your cel will not come on.

You might have to take it to someone that has a live code reader which can read certain sensors live while the engine is running. But especially at start-up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i installed the pcv last night it went fairly smooth my stock gramit ahd a rip in it and i found some bad hoses i also found a house not even connected to the throttle body however i didnt understand the importance of the heat shield? Can someone explain? Today im going to try and take off my down pipe and take off the oil pan for cleaning i dont have wheel acid, is there any other stuff that would help me clean it?
 

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jayt1788 said:
... take off the oil pan for cleaning i dont have wheel acid, is there any other stuff that would help me clean it?
A lot of thread suggest using fuel but clearly you have to feel confident waving petrol filled rags about!!:cheesy:
I suspect anything with a high solvent might help - meths, white spirit, etc. The wheel cleaner spray sounded good as its pretty safe and usually disolves tar spots. Maybe you can get some. I plan to try it when I do mine.
 

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There are threads that cover both the PCV, sludge, and dropping the sump, extremely helpful and detailed. Do a search and find them and read. As far as an engine flush, most people I've heard on this side of the pond use Amsoil Engine Flush, you can get it from their website or I can order it for you (I have an Amsoil dealer license).



There isn't a gasket on the sump, just you RTV (Permatex Copper or Blue) to seal it. Make sure you're using the correct synthetic oil as well. Amsoil Euro Formula 5W-40 is my choice, many others use Mobil 1 0W-40, there are a few other that meet the specification out there, but I think they are hard to find.



How many miles are on your car? Oil change history? I think you better drop your sump as soon as possible to prevent some pricey damage.



To clean the sludge a lot of people use gasoline and a brush and rag, I'm sure lacquer thinner, or carb cleaner would work, the key is something that evaporates quickly.



The PCV upgrade doesn't have every hose needed, there are two more I think you should change. Check the PCV thread it has all the details. The rubber heat shield is a total pain to get into place. If I recall correctly it protects the PCV hose from the heat of a coolant hose, I'd trim it to make it fit better. There is a good image of where it is suppose to go in the www.genuinesaabe.com site.


$2/100
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i had very little sludge almost none.... i think it has to do with my valve rings.. kinda pissed about no sludge because it was hell taking the oil pan off.
 
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