My Saab will not start. It just cranks and cranks.
It has good spark-verified via grounding and observing the DIC
Via my scanner I can see engine RPMs while cranking, This and the working ignition makes me feel the CPS is working properly.
Fuel pump comes on and pumps as is should while trying to start the car. Pressure at fuel rail is great.
I removed fuel rail and there is no fuel coming out of the injectors. The pressure in the fuel rail doesn't reduce while cranking, even with the the fuel pump unplugged.
I pulled off the leads to the injectors and ran a meter across the plug. While cranking there is no voltage, no pulse.
Fuse 7 has 10 volts to it and fuse 14 has 12 volts.
I checked the relay 229 under the dash an it does click when turning the key.
All the wiring in the engine bay looks great. No corrosion anywhere.
This is where I have stopped for the night. What is your guys' expert opinion? Where should I check next? Do you think it could be the ECU.
If you have 12volts in fuse 14, but 10 volts in fuse 7, you have bad wiring between them. They both have voltage from R229.
Have you double checked those fuses/repalced them?
If you have 12volts in fuse 14, but 10 volts in fuse 7, you have bad wiring between them. They both have voltage from R229.
Have you double checked those fuses/replaced them?
I verified my numbers with a second meter today. Also I understand the "positive" side of the injectors is always connected. I verified that the "positive" side reads 12.8 volts to every injector.
With the key on, off, or cranking the side that goes to the ECU reads no volts when connected to ground or the postive terminal.
With my probes connected to both pins on the injector connectors I read .03 volts for a moment while cranking. Then it drops to 0 volts. My next step is to check for the grounding pulse on the ECU connector.
Any other recommendations? To me I have three possibilities: The ECU is broken, Something is telling the ECU not to fire the injectors or the connection from the ECU to the injectors is open somewhere.
I have spark and injector pulse as well as see rpm on my scanner however my tach does not move while cranking. I thought that if the cps was bad they it would not spark or pulse? On that note I did buy a new cps and will put it in today or tomorrow.
Yes sir. It was user error. I created a new thread that should be just below or above this. I will be deleting this one.
I have injector pulse, I have spark, I jumped the pump so it ran continuously and manual fired the injectors to verify spray, the fuel pump primes when the key is turned but car still doesn't start and cylinders look wet with fuel, new plugs and tried to dics that I verified spark on. I have a new cps that is going in today.
BUT you now revealed that this is a “charity” car that you picked up. So does that mean that you picked it up in this condition andit is not that it was working fine and just stopped working one day? In other words, it never worked while in your possession and you’re trying to get it to work. If this is the case, it could very well be that the head gasket is blown to smithereens and that you have zero compression, which would explain the crank-no start condition. Or am I misreading the situation of the condition of the car? Would be helpful if you give us the total back story so that you can get proper advise from the members on here.
Recommend that you do a leak down test. Compression test may not be as effective as engine is cold.
Suppose timing could have slipped if the chain has stretched. But I would have thought you more likely would have an engine that ran rough as opposed to cranking without any attempt to start (at least that’s what you’ve reported). But timing is easy to check.
Did you check the ground and DIC connectors as I mentioned in your other thread?
Will be interesting to see what the new CPS does.
If you have not done so, you may want to just disconnect the negative battery cable and let it sit for 15-20 minutes as this will reset the ECU (or pull fuse 17 I believe it is).
Try replacing the relays for the ignition switch and the engine management system with the relays for the starter and fuel pump (I think they are the same kind of relays. Will rule out any issues with relays.
Did you follow MIMI’s lead on checking wires. Seems strange that you have 12volts at fuse 14 but only 10volts at fuse 7. Should be 12volts at both. An indication of a wire problem and maybe the injectors are not working after all (I think you said that you jumped with 12 bolts manually and that they worked that way but do they really in the car without the manual jump? You said you think you saw fuel on top of the pistons - that should be very obvious and you should smell fuel in a big way. If it is fuel. Are you sure it is fuel and not coolant that you’re seeing?
Is there any coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant?
A test with starter fluid would quickly answer the question on gas quality. But agree with MIMI - change the gas.
Bummer but sounds you'll get it up and running soon. Head is warped badly if no compression so machine shop will definitely have to plane it for you. Hopefully there is still enough material left so they can shave it within spec.
I removed the valve cover today. Looks very clean! No sludge or abnormal wear. Hopefully its a good sign of things to come! Head Gasket kit comes tomorrow and various other bits are on their way to make sure the job goes smoothly. The head goes to the machine shop Monday.
if the cylinder wall is not badly damaged you might get away with a hone in place (oil pan off, cover the crank and go for it) If the walls are scored badly then you're in for a rebuild or a replacement.
Where are you? I have a good extra block and a couple of used A pistons from it laying around that I could make you a really good deal on but shipping may be a bit too much. that is if you're in for a rebuild.
This engine spun a rod bearing so the crank was toast and one of the connecting rods dead as well. I sold a bunch of other stuff from it but I do have a bare block and the pistons. PM me if you're interested.
if the cylinder wall is not badly damaged you might get away with a hone in place (oil pan off, cover the crank and go for it) If the walls are scored badly then you're in for a rebuild or a replacement.
Where are you? I have a good extra block and a couple of used A pistons from it laying around that I could make you a really good deal on but shipping may be a bit too much. that is if you're in for a rebuild.
This engine spun a rod bearing so the crank was toast and one of the connecting rods dead as well. I sold a bunch of other stuff from it but I do have a bare block and the pistons. PM me if you're interested.
yea, it's probably not worth the shipping cost for the block. If you have "A" bores (stamped on the deck) you can use A or AB pistons so if you find the walls in good enough shape and need a piston let me know.
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