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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
broken manifold stud?

so i got my car diagnosed and found that it is leaking oil from one side of the head gasket, and it also has a broken manifold stud(which i dont even know what that is, so if someone knows they should tell me). the thing is, it is best to fix them both at once since they both require the engine being taken apart. so i want to save about 1200 bucks by doing it myself, but thats a hell of a job. so can someone tell me exactly how much crap i am getting into if i were to do it at home?
 

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Hopefully not a lot, depends on what you want to end up with ( perfect or just safely useable)
Leaking head gasket: 9000,s commonly leak at both ends of the C/H, if your not observing any other signs of head gasket failure then a retorque of the bolts may very well fix it
Manifold stud: - assume its the Exhaust manifold, again not uncommon, but is the manifold leaking - mine has a sheared stud for atleast the last 20k miles.

If you do need to get it out, & you do have a major Head leak then your best option is to do the head removal / replace yourself but you,ll need a machine shop to check incase its warped & get it skimmed + unless you,ve got the right tools best let the machine shop do the broken stud
On the head removal, its a simple / time consuming average mechanics job. Plenty write ups on this + the Haynes manual has it well covered

My only advice is, before removing the timing chain, get some white marker paint
Set the Engine to top dead centre on pistons 1 and 4
Mark the flywheel position against the block
Mark the cam position to the head
Mark the top point of the chain on each cam sprocket
count the no. of roller pins between each sprocket ( and write down - start at first pin after the inlet sprocket marked tooth and finish counting at the first pin after the marked tooth on the ex cam sprocket)
If you get the head skimmed, and as your chain will be a bit worn ( but not U/S) you can end up in a "is it this one or the next one" position on the cam timing, marks will fix this
enjoy
 

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Head gasket oil leaks from the clutch end of the engine head are very common and usually don't have to be fixed until they get quite bad. The head overhangs the block so you can have oil leaking from the "front" of the head at the clutch end of the engine without losing compression or geting oil in the water or vice versa. As long as compression checks OK and coolant system pressure tests OK you likely have a leak at the cylinder head, rear cover joint which is sealed by the head gasket but doesn't seal in any engine compression.


As for broken manifold studs this is quite common. It can be a bear of a job as the studs are steel and the head is aluminum. The studs corrode into place.

Often these need to be drilled out and the head helicoiled for new studs. If you have to pull the head anyway for a new head gasket then this is the ideal time to get all those studs checked and replaced as needed. It is much easier to do this when the head is off the engine and the machine shop can likely do it for you when they check the head and valves for condition.
 

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When replacing the Turbo on my old 9000 one of the manifold studs snapped in the head, I messed about for ages with drills and easy outs to no avail.

Resorted to welding a nut onto the broken stud using a MIG welder (it was snapped flush with the block) first I built up some weld on the stud then placed a nut over the top of this and welded it to the inside of the nut, thanks to the heat generated the stud began to turn staight away although the weld didn't hold up so I had to weld it twice but saved a lot of hassle in the long run. Had I done this in the first place it would only have taken an hour or two.

To get at it all I did was remove the manifold and of course disconnected the battery to prevent damage to the ECU etc from the high voltages passed by the welder.
 
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