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Discussion Starter #1
I want to clean up my engine bay this weekend so I have a quick question what is the general opinion on what works well to clean and degrease my engine bay top and bottom. Thanks for the input, Joel:)
 

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Make sure you clean it when it is cold and rinse that crap off thoroughly. I find the gunk cleaner works very well, but if you do not get it all off it will make your engine bay smoke for like 2 hours.

I like the citrus degreasers best. They do not do as great of a job as the gunk and the "generic O'reilly Degreaser," but they also seems to break up the grease better and make it water soluble to a point leaving the engine parts free of residue. The other stuff tends to leave an oily residue that smells like petroleum for a while, and it also leaves the garage floor greasy and slick.

If you have not cleaned your engine for a long time make sure you buy a couple of cans. I have never had any sort of problem spraying the crap out of everything in my engine bay with a hose. I am just careful to avoid the open air intake I have.
 

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really hot water works best. you dont want to use too high of water pressure either. that can force water into places you dont want it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
simple green or purple power

really hot water works best. you dont want to use too high of water pressure either. that can force water into places you dont want it.
has anyone ever used either of these simple green or purple power? do they work what was the result thanks for any info. Joel
 

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really hot water works best. you dont want to use too high of water pressure either. that can force water into places you dont want it.
Best advice....
I have a pressure washer....great on concrete.... and it will get under the siding and into the electrics....not good !
I wish some-one would would make a true mini-steam cleaner for an affordable price.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Best advice....
I have a pressure washer....great on concrete.... and it will get under the siding and into the electrics....not good !
I wish some-one would would make a true mini-steam cleaner for an affordable price.
Yes, I just want to clean under the engine. I would like to get something I can put in a 1 gallon pump sprayer and spray down the bottom of the engine. then let it soak and hose off later. no pressure washing just a garden hose to rinse things off. has anyone ever found a good cleaning solution for this? Thanks Joel
 

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never done it to my 9-3 as it doesnt leak, but with my old N/A B204 900 I used to coat it in gunk while cold until positively dripping, coat the distributor & HT leads with WD40, drive for 5 minutes down to the jet wash and hose down the entire engine bay apart from the fusebox and distributor with a high pressure water lance

Never caused any issues - it would be rough on startup and trail steam for a while then be fine. Always made a point of driving for half an hour after doing this to dry the bay out properly

I wouldnt do this on a Trionic car, they have a bit too much clever stuff under there...
 

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Purple Power is good, but it's really caustic. I can tell when I get too much on my hands, so I use gloves with it now. For normal engine cleaning, I use Gunk Foamy Engine Brite. I really liked their citrus version, but it seems to be harder to find these days, at least at local stores.
 

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Purple Power is the shiznit. It does wear on your hands though after a while.

Not that long ago I read a comparison of industrial cleaners and Purple Power came out on top - the most effective, the least environmentally damaging, and the least toxic. Blew Simple Green and Super Clean out of the water. I throw thick cardboard under the engine, hose it down with PP, brush around, then wipe what I can off before hosing the remainder.

Around here Autozone stocks it - I think it's $5 or $10 a gallon.
 

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What do you have in your engine bay that's anodized aluminum? Purple Power won't affect regular unfinished aluminum, at least. I used it clean up a pretty ratty-looking cobra pipe, followed by some Eagle One self-etching mag wheel cleaner. That stuff really brightened up the old aluminum.
 

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I think it will etch if left long enough - I have some discolored aluminum on the Viggen's transmission I am pretty sure is from PP... but I let it soak a good long time in the sun. I think a spray/brush/rinse is good practice and won't etch. As long as it doesn't dry it should be fine.
 

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I love the PPower. YOu can get a 5 gallon bucket really cheap when local parts stores have it on sale. For the real nasty stuff I pull out the foaming oven cleaner (someone here gave a great tip that oven cleaner is the end-all for cleaning bathroom tubs/showers - blows the scrubby bubble cleaners out of the water). The PP definately tingles and probably "etches" your skin a little bit..
 

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I usually use simple green and a sponge/toothbrush.
I read that quickly and it looked like "and a tongue brush". Yeech.

What do you have in your engine bay that's anodized aluminum? Purple Power won't affect regular unfinished aluminum, at least. I used it clean up a pretty ratty-looking cobra pipe, followed by some Eagle One self-etching mag wheel cleaner. That stuff really brightened up the old aluminum.
I was actually thinking of using it on some anodized bicycle parts. In the engine bay of rust belt cars, there's no anodizing left worrying about. Interesting on the cobra pipe... I have that issue. Maybe I will give your plan a try. Blow off pipe is pretty bad too. Might get a quick sanding. I was surprised to find that the heat shield is steel... always thought that was aluminum. Need a different plan there.

FYI - A gallon of PP is $5 at Walmart. $8 at Autozone or Advance They have an Extreme version that supposed to be 2x concentrated for $10 delivered (or pick up at Advance for $2.50 more). There's also an Industrial strength version... no idea how it compares to Extreme. Too many choices. Someone call the marketing people, I'm suffering from buyer indecision.
 

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I have never seen the Extreme - what they sell at Autozone on the shelf is the "Industrial Strength."
Ah, now that I look closer, everyone sells the Industrial Strength. It's just not in the description except at Advance. So "Extreme" must be 2x the Industrial strength.
 

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Could be. I can't imagine needing anything more than the regular stuff for engine parts. If the regular stuff isn't taking it off, you need a different type of cleaner.
 

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While we're on the subject... I needed to clean the varnish from inside the C900 valve cover I am refreshing in the background. I sprayed on some Walmart brand oven cleaner and decided to try with the "leave it overnight" option. Sprayed it on and went back the next day. Looked like it hadn't done anything but to my surprise all the gunk was crystalized and washed right off with water.
 
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