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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So now that I've had my 9-5 for almost two months now, I'm starting to pick up on some little things.
I have had smoke on startup when I bought the car, but as I noted in one of my other threads, it's only intermittent. I'm starting to realize that on the trips where I'm really beating on her (To and from where my Fiance works, about 15 miles, hard acelleration, etc) I can park her for any amount of time and there's no smoke on startup. But if I drive to work (About two miles), If she sits more than 2 hours she'll smoke pretty bad.

Is there something with the turbo seals on these cars that requires pretty hard pressure to get them seated for driving or something? I have been letting her idle up to warm temp every morning before driving, as I figured if it's a seal issue, they should expand well enough to prevent leaking at full operating temp, but that does not seem to help at all.

One other thing, I've just purchased the poly transmission mount insert from GenuineSaab.com, has anyone done this job before? On other cars I've just put the car on stands, and then carefully jacked up the engine from the oil pan to raise it enough to undo the mounts, but is there a suggested way to do this?
 

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Not sure I'd use the oil pan as they are very thin and you'd probably crack even when using a board.

You're onto the turbo weeping oil past the exhaust turbine. You have to tie in the temperature of the cat when parked and relate to smoke at start up. Just watch oil consumption as it'll increase in the future. With your short drives and idling the whole exhaust side of the turbo is full of coffee grind type oil coking.

I ran my 116K mile orginal smoker for 10K mile before redue the turbo with the $29.00 eBay kit. Even after the one hour daily drives on the highway the coked oil coffee grinds came gushing out when I pull it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What is it that actually wears out? Is it the compressor, or just the seals? (I'm guessing seals since you rebuilt for $29).
I haven't gotten in there deep enough yet to check the turbo out for shaft play or anything.


What would you suggest I use to lift the engine? I don't have access to a hoist or anything. Maybe a board between the engine and trans? I haven't gotten under there to check anything just yet.
 

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If you're just lifting the engine/trans to put in the mounts you can use the bottom of the trans with a block of wood. It's not that much weight. But I wouldn't lift the car off the ground that way!

As for the turbo, as long as it hasn't had a catastrophic failure the seals, bearings (brass) and thrust washers can be rebuilt pretty easily. The big part of the job is taking the damned thing out. Once that is done the rest is relatively easy.

There are a couple of youtube videos on rebuilding a TD05 turbo that are pretty good and show how that one comes apart. The GT17 is a bit different but you should get the concepts from the youtube video.

If you've had a serious failure (mine broke the turbine shaft) you can buy a completely new CHRA for about $300. Sweedish Dynamics on ebay sells them (they sell them on their web site too but the price is higher) Again, getting the turbo out and back in is the big job, fixing it once it's out is easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Awesome, I'll try that.
I'll be unemployed at the end of the week, so I've been toying with the idea of starting the tear down for the turbo rebuild. Though I don't have a great place to work on it, so I'm pretty hesitant. I've heard it can be a pretty easy weekend job though, with the right tools.
 

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If this is your first time in there, expect to spend about 3-4 hours taking the turbo out and another 2-3 putting it back. If you haven't already and can afford to not drive the car I'd shoot the 4 bolts that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold and the 3 bolts that hold the down pipe to the turbo with a penetrant now and let it soak. you'll be glad you did.

Take the electric fans and shroud out, it makes for much more room in getting things out.

Make sure you get the proper copper washers for all of the oil feed/return and water feed/return lines.


One other hint: The oil return from the turbo is a ***** to get in once the turbo is bolted up. put it in while the turbo is loose.

good luck!
 

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I think the journal bearing, inbetween compressor and exhaust turbine, wears from lack of proper oil change. The exhaust side sees higher pressure than does the compressor side add in heat and it wears faster. Once journal starts to wear the shaft takes out anything in it's way. Specifically the little C-shaped clip that helps retain oil pressure or seal as some call it. When this gets too much play it allows the turbine or compressor fins to contact the housing.
 
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