[Windsor]

I’m getting a voltage drop at my battery. I canfeel some heat of resistance where the positive cable crimps to the battery terminal. First question- is that where most battery cable resistance failures occur? If so, I am thinking of getting a splicing repair kit and make the repair there. A new cable runs about $125 and there is all the work of fishing it through the engine compartment. So second question- has anyone done a splice and if so, were you satisfied with the repair?

 

[EdT]

At the battery end, a "splice" is typically using an aftermarket clamp-on terminal. This would work in the short term, but is likely to corrode and require attention or replacement in the medium term.


Best bet would be to get a used cable in good condition and replace the whole thing. Who knows, you may have corrosion issues elsewhere along the existing cable--some have reported problems at the alternator end too.

 

[Windsor]

Anyone else out there have experience with where their battery cable has had a high resistance failure?

 

[Mimmi]

There is internal corrosion. Only good solution is cut cable and attach new terminal with cable extension. Use shrink tube for insulation.

 

[Tboy]

Short of replacing the cable, if you are sure you ahve located the bad part, I use these aftermarket battery clamps. May have to use these terminal shims to get them to clamp correctly.



If you need to lengthen the cable, use appropriate gauge wire and a fuse holder like this may be handy. There may be splices that are cheaper.

 

[Mariner]

Complete replacement is the sure bet. I wish there were a single answer - but corrosion is not so simple. The ends (battery and alternator) should be at highest risk from water and salt exposure, but there's the splice for the starter too. And water wicks into the cable, so the corrosion can be deep in the cable - not as common, but it happens.

I just swapped in a good (as least pretty good) used positive cable for one daughter's car because there was melted insulation at the alternator end when I did a different repair. No starting problem yet, but the melted insulation indicated that there was high resistance / heat there. That cable end looked fine two years ago when I did other work including alternator replacement (I had the subframe out, so it was the best time). I'm in Minnesota with winter salt, the car is 13 years old, and these positive battery cables are a known trouble spot - so this was unpleasant to see but not a shocker.

I am going to see about cost of building a new cable using the old cable as a template - but a new one for $130 plus shipping might be just as cheap.