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Discussion Starter #1
Good day to you gents,

I replaced all 4 engine mounts and the strut mounts. When the car is in gear sitting at a stop, I still see my driver's side mirror vibrating. I know, I know, this is the type of engine blah blah. What's supposed to be preventing this vibration from happening when the car is in gear other than the torque rod, maybe some transmission mount that I'm unaware of? What else could I look at? I didn't do the subframe bushings, is this the only possible reason?
 

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Did you replace your torque rod with a genuine one? I originally replaced mine with a genuine one because the one that was on there was really bad. Vibrations did not improve at all. However, this week, I replaced the larger bushing with a powerflex one and almost all of my car's vibration disappeared. It still vibrates a bit, but it's nowhere near as bad as it was before changing that torque rod bushing.
 

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did you checked also subframe bushings. especially the two rear ones?
When car is from 2002-2005 they are known to not last that long.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Balance shaft chain loose?
This is way over my head, but it sounds like a reasonable explanation. Maybe the engine moves around too much beyond what the mounts could handle. I wouldn't even attempt to fix this given the mileage.

Did you replace your torque rod with a genuine one? I originally replaced mine with a genuine one because the one that was on there was really bad. Vibrations did not improve at all. However, this week, I replaced the larger bushing with a powerflex one and almost all of my car's vibration disappeared. It still vibrates a bit, but it's nowhere near as bad as it was before changing that torque rod bushing.
Thanks for the idea, I did use the proparts product which seems similar to the original part. I'll check out the powerflex one as I keep finding positive reviews about it.


did you checked also subframe bushings. especially the two rear ones?
When car is from 2002-2005 they are known to not last that long.
I suspect these to be the case as well. I went under and sprayed every bushing I could find with silicone. Immediately almost all of the creaks and growls went away. It should probably be a yearly maintenance item for these cars - I wonder how much longer they would last if lubricated properly on the regular.
 

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Maybe it's not vibration from the engine that is the problem. Have you checked the mirror maybe one of the plastic clips that secure the mirror to the adjustment motor is broken?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Maybe it's not vibration from the engine that is the problem. Have you checked the mirror maybe one of the plastic clips that secure the mirror to the adjustment motor is broken?
Haha, that would be an elegant solution! Unfortunately, it is a bit more severe, and sometimes it makes noise inside the cabin. I could definitely feel it, and so far it happens only when the car is in gear. When I start it up I also get a jolt, which feels like it's coming from under the vehicle somewhere in auto trans shifter area.
 

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Haha, that would be an elegant solution! Unfortunately, it is a bit more severe, and sometimes it makes noise inside the cabin. I could definitely feel it, and so far it happens only when the car is in gear. When I start it up I also get a jolt, which feels like it's coming from under the vehicle somewhere in auto trans shifter area.
Have you replace the torque mounts? This is one on the front side and there is another on the back side which is a bit longer. https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Torque-Strut-Mount-5230693/dp/B00Y39S1OG I took one off one time that looked perfectly fine but once it was off the rubber core just fell out. It seems like this could be your source of the vibration?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Have you replace the torque mounts? This is one on the front side and there is another on the back side which is a bit longer. https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Torque-Strut-Mount-5230693/dp/B00Y39S1OG I took one off one time that looked perfectly fine but once it was off the rubber core just fell out. It seems like this could be your source of the vibration?
Yes, I replaced the front one, and I don't believe there's a rear torque mount for a 2003 95. Jdt9608 above suggested using the powerflex unit, which I might look into.
 

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The jolt at startup could be the exhaust hitting the underside. Unless you've recently replaced the exhaust, a bad motor mount might explain it. There is a rear mount that is visible from the passenger (right) side but it looks like you replaced it. It is very low and mounted more to the driver (left) side. It's a pain to replace but is doable on jack stands from below. There are separate part numbers for AT vs. manual but they look identical and I and others have used the manual version on our AT with no issues.

Note that replacing all the mounts won't necessarily cure vibration in automatics in D or R with your foot on the brake. Also, vibration seems worse in colder temps but as underhood temps increase the mounts' rubber may soften a bit and reduce it.
 

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Haha, that would be an elegant solution! Unfortunately, it is a bit more severe, and sometimes it makes noise inside the cabin. I could definitely feel it, and so far it happens only when the car is in gear. When I start it up I also get a jolt, which feels like it's coming from under the vehicle somewhere in auto trans shifter area.
Don't underestimate how much noise a mirror can make. I was sure that my car had some sort of engine or bushing problem because of the awful vibrations and accompanying noise that my car would make when starting up from a stop. I wouldn't have guessed it was the driver's side mirror in a million years, but one morning when the car was covered in snow, I took it for a drive (after cleaning most of it off), and it was quietest it had been in ages. That's when I was tipped off about it being the mirror, because the entire hinge area was covered in ice and snow. Something in the folding hinge was sticking, and it took a lot of oil and folding and unfolding the mirror before it was freed up enough that it wouldn't rattle horribly. The jolt you're feeling definitely isn't from the mirror, though. Have you checked your transmission fluid level? Mine was shifting pretty hard when it was a quart low.
 

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Yes, I replaced the front one, and I don't believe there's a rear torque mount for a 2003 95. Jdt9608 above suggested using the powerflex unit, which I might look into.
I believe you are right. I can't believe they did away with that after the 1999 model but that seems to be the only year that has it? You will have to educate me on how or what they did instead?
 

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I had a similar issue on my 06 sportcombi, heavy vibes when in D or R at a stop, went away when driving. Most of it was propegated through the steering wheel in my case and it was obnoxious in traffic to the point that I didn't want to drive it. I replaced all engine/trans mounts and was baffled when it barely improved the vibration at all. Did rear subframe bushings, still nothing. Did middle subframe bushings and it improved significantly. I would suggest you do this next, I really wish I would have done it sooner. Use the in-car method, cut the old out with a 1 1/4" hole saw, pry out, then cut the races out with a reciprocating saw. Rears are metal, middle are plastic, be careful not to cut into the subframe. I'd do the fronts too but not sure if you can press them in the same way without removing the subframe.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had a similar issue on my 06 sportcombi, heavy vibes when in D or R at a stop, went away when driving. Most of it was propegated through the steering wheel in my case and it was obnoxious in traffic to the point that I didn't want to drive it. I replaced all engine/trans mounts and was baffled when it barely improved the vibration at all. Did rear subframe bushings, still nothing. Did middle subframe bushings and it improved significantly. I would suggest you do this next, I really wish I would have done it sooner. Use the in-car method, cut the old out with a 1 1/4" hole saw, pry out, then cut the races out with a reciprocating saw. Rears are metal, middle are plastic, be careful not to cut into the subframe. I'd do the fronts too but not sure if you can press them in the same way without removing the subframe.
Sigh, sounds like it needs to be done. I don't see myself doing this on jack stands, will have to convince a mechanic to do this without removing subframe (too many hours otherwise).
 
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