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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello SC!

Hopefully someone can give me some direction here, these are my observations.

-For the last 6 weeks or so it's been taking 2 tries to start the engine the first time i start it every day.
-No buzz sound audible inside the car from the fuel pump when turning the key
-Fuse 32 checked out good
-Swapped relays around in the box to no avail.
-Check engine light comes on now
-Engine was running smooth and quiet, no misfires or anything of that sort.

I went on a fairly long trip(200mi round trip) the car did fine, I did notice i was having to floor the accelerator to get through the mountain passes, but I just attribute that to it being a 4cyl. I drove the car home and made it to my drive way, went to start it this morning and it just cranks but the engine wont turn over.

From my research this problem seems indicative of the fuel pump or ignition cassette. I'm personally leaning towards the fuel pump based on it not making any noise when i turn the key, but if anyone can give me a way to check for sure before I start ordering parts that would be awesome.

Thanks!
 

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If you have a turbo car and you floor it on a mountain pass, it should shoot up any mountain pass like a firey insane demon. If it is a non turbo then I don't know really. It depresses me to think what a non turbo would be like.
 

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When you turn the key and it does not start, does the engine turn over or is it just dash lights and nothing? If so this could be a bad ignition switch.
 

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Hello SC!

Hopefully someone can give me some direction here, these are my observations.

-For the last 6 weeks or so it's been taking 2 tries to start the engine the first time i start it every day.
-No buzz sound audible inside the car from the fuel pump when turning the key
-Fuse 32 checked out good
-Swapped relays around in the box to no avail.
-Check engine light comes on now
-Engine was running smooth and quiet, no misfires or anything of that sort.

I went on a fairly long trip(200mi round trip) the car did fine, I did notice i was having to floor the accelerator to get through the mountain passes, but I just attribute that to it being a 4cyl. I drove the car home and made it to my drive way, went to start it this morning and it just cranks but the engine wont turn over.

From my research this problem seems indicative of the fuel pump or ignition cassette. I'm personally leaning towards the fuel pump based on it not making any noise when i turn the key, but if anyone can give me a way to check for sure before I start ordering parts that would be awesome.

Thanks!
Is this a turbo or not? (Most 900S are not.)

If it's a turbo, then there's something wrong with the power, since turbos should compensate for altitude.

You should also find out what codes are making the Check Engine light come on.

When you say that it took two tries to start your car, does that mean it starts and stalls the first time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nope, it's not a turbo, just a plain ole' 2.3l

And by two tries, it would just crank away the first time, i think the fuel pump just wasn't building up enough pressure on the first try.

I sprayed some starting fluid in the throttle today and she started right up, which seems indicative of a bad fuel pump to me(Thanks jakem79 )

Does anyone have any experience with the fuel pumps being sold for $39.58 on ebay by autopartswholesale?

edit: the check engine light went off when I turned the car on with the starter fluid and jumped the battery, I think a low battery was causing it to throw a code.
 

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Nope, it's not a turbo, just a plain ole' 2.3l

And by two tries, it would just crank away the first time, i think the fuel pump just wasn't building up enough pressure on the first try.

I sprayed some starting fluid in the throttle today and she started right up, which seems indicative of a bad fuel pump to me(Thanks jakem79 )

Does anyone have any experience with the fuel pumps being sold for $39.58 on ebay by autopartswholesale?

edit: the check engine light went off when I turned the car on with the starter fluid and jumped the battery, I think a low battery was causing it to throw a code.
Okay, it's not an ignition module. Those are on turbo cars. You (and I) have a distributor and coil. It may be helpful to pull the distributor and clean out the oil that's likely in there. Also check/replace the wires and plugs.

Be careful, a lot of the diagnosis is for turbo cars, and they have a different engine management system than the 2.3 N/As (Saab Trionic vs. Bosch Motronic).

Do you hear the fuel pump running when you first turn the key to "on"? It could be an electrical or sensor signal problem rather than a fuel pump problem. I would check that carefully before committing to change a pump. And I am not sure I would trust a $40 fuel pump.
 

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Hey I had the same exact problem. Well hopefully I can help.
If your SAAB is turbo DO NOT use starter spray!!!!!!!!!


I had the same thing I had new coils and spark plugs done, I put them myself and everything was fine, drove and everything was great. Next day going to work, won't turn over. I had to call out. So I checked the DIC and Spark Plugs, they were good. So I bought a new battery thinking my battery was too weak to turn over. What it was, it was a fuse, put it in and boom.

-So check all your fuses that have to do with the engine, I forget which ones.

-And turn your key twice and see if you hear the fuel pump make a noise, if you do it's not your fuel pump.

-Also check to see if you have enough gas.

-If your battery if good.

-If you touched your coils and or spark plugs make sure they were put correctly and you have the right spark plugs. But since you didn't you should be fine.

-SAABs are know to have bad DIC, so have that replaced soon, or a least checked out.

Hopefully I could help.

What I think it can be is a fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey guys, just thought I'd update and give thanks and post my take on the job in hopes that it'll help somebody out in the future, Unfortunately the camera portion of my phone failed a few months ago, so I wasn't able to take pictures.

Disclaimer: Im a DIY'er with a very little mechanical background, I have a decent understanding of cars and how they work, but i'm not a mechanic at all so take my advice with a grain of salt


I ended up ordering the $39 pump off of eBay, and the pump seems to be decent quality, however... I do NOT recommend ordering this pump because it comes with nothing else but the pump, no section of hose or gaskets.

Went to o'reilly to pick up some hose, and told them what I was using it for, and they told me they I would need submersible hose or else the hose would dissolve into the gas and cause all sorts of problems. They didn't stock the hose but could order it for $25.99 a foot, I opted to attempt reusing the hose in the assembly(didn't work).

So, I took my back seat out, got out my trusty set of aviation snips and went at it, and made a very ugly hole in my car, started unhooking the valves, the pressure valve came out with ease... I then forgot to spray the return valve with lubricant, pulled a little too hard and... *snap*, I took some time to shout expletives, then decided to try to get the lock ring off, first trying the "2 screwdriver method" and I slipped and broke the yellow retainer clip.

So at this point, I was fed up between the $26 fuel line that had to be ordered, the broken return valve and broken retainer clip on the pressure side and I decided to see if I could track down a whole assembly and buy it with the return valve and a little line attached. I managed to find a 95 900s that someone was parting out in Compton, I went to pick it up and they were too busy to pull it that day, and had me put down a deposit and come back the next day.... When I went to pick it up the return valve had been rigged together and the retainer clip was broken like mine. *however* the pump insert was not original and had normal submersible line attached that could be worked with and the check valve was okay. So I haggled with them since they broke the assembly and got the check valve & submersible line for $40.


Now back to the o-ring... I tried making a wood block that would fit in the grooves, put some vice grips on it... and It broke the wood in half before the ring even budged. I also tried making a tool out of pvc as per theSAABguy's suggestion, but lowes only stocked an ABS 4" end cap female piece which was a little to thick and impossible to cut.


After trying all these home made tooks, spraying oodles of penetrating oil, pouring boiling water on the ring and hitting it with a hammer repeatedly I decided that this simply was not going to work, I read a suggestion that the tool in autozone's "Fuel pump repair kit" that they loan out would work. So after putting down a $90 deposit on the toolkit, I set the spreader took to engage the grooves, put my 3/8" ratchet in with a 4" extension, and the damned thing still would not budge!! so I got a buddy to help, we put a metal pipe over the ratchet handle while the other pushed down on the removal tool, and with all of our might it finally broke loose.

From here, I had the pump back together with my cheapo pump insert from ebay * the line from the junkyard, slipped the old gasket off the old insert and put it on the new one and put it all back in the tank, cut the broken return valve off the line, put the drilled out feed valve from the junk yard on, spliced the saab nylon lines together with some "Prestone Fuel Injection Line" 5/16" , its $7.99 for 18" @ AutoZone, and secured it with 2 hose clamps.

As for the yellow retainer clip, I used a 1 1/2" Two hole electical strap, put a longer screw in the middle of the yellow plate with the Torx screw that is hidden under red wax. The strap fits over the pressure line elbow quite nicely.

Anyways, Sorry this was so long, but I tried to be as detailed as possible, Thanks to everyone else that has posted their methods for replacing the fuel pump. without this site, I would have known where to start.
 

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1998 Saab 900s Convertible will not start

Ran fine until a week ago. Started, drove 2 miles, died, restarted, drove it home. Now it will not start. Turns over but will not start. "Check Engine" light flashes as soon as key is switched on and continues - and speeds up. Got an OBDCOM code reader but it will not connect to cars computer - tries but does not connect. Device works on other car.

Any ideas?

B
 

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Ran fine until a week ago. Started, drove 2 miles, died, restarted, drove it home. Now it will not start. Turns over but will not start. "Check Engine" light flashes as soon as key is switched on and continues - and speeds up. Got an OBDCOM code reader but it will not connect to cars computer - tries but does not connect. Device works on other car.

Any ideas?
Is your car a 2.0 turbo or a 2.3 non-turbo? (I am not sure what the "S" means in the US.)

If it's a turbo, I would think DIC, but I am not an expert. If non-turbo, well I've never seen a flashing check engine light.

You probably need to test for spark, as well as do the usual "bit of fuel or starting fluid in the intake" to see what happens.
 

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2003 Saab 9-3 turbo contervtible

Hey guys,

Been reading some of the posts here to try and figure out what happened with my saab.
I have a manual transmission.

Story; I drove in the morning about 15 miles total, and worked fine. No problems with electrical. I just recently had a new mas air flow sensor put in.

As I was leaving around lunch time, maybe 3-4 hours after the first drive, the car turned on, and again no problems. But I stopped at a red light, and noticed the car seemed like it was slowly shutting down. And then a little rumble, and everything shut down. zero RPM zero mph. I thought I had taken my foot off the clutch, so I tried to restart.

All electricals work. Radio, dash, display panel. But the engine won't turn over. It tries, but ends up draining the battery.
I hooked it up to a power box, and it still won't turn over.

I bought brand new injectors, and installed them, and it still won't turn on.

any ideas?
 

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I have the same car and I am having the same problem. I think it is the check valve(s) on the fuel pump as originally diagnosed by Bobsaabit. When these guys were designed and sold 10% ethanol was not a factor.

I did what you did and replaced the entire pump assembly and it worked for a couple of days just fine then last Saturday it wouldn't crank. I turned the key on and off a few times and it cranked in 2-3 seconds.

It's been sitting at the CLT airport for five days, so, we will see if it starts when I get back. I have the check valves sitting on my bench, so, I plan to change those when I get a chance on Saturday.

Since I got the car four months ago it's taken four "beats" as in onetwothreefour START. After the new fuel pump, it took three beats onetwothree START. We'll see what happens when I get the check valve replaced.
 

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I am getting the same problem. 2001 9-3 turbo auto. 198k on car. Changed it the crack position sensor. Did nothing. Battery is good. 3/4 fuel in tank. Fuse is good. Used my power probe and pushed power to the pump. Nothing. Ordered s fuel pump kit of eeuroparts. Dropped the fuel tank. Removed the old pump. Pushed power to it. It works. So, she will get a new pump anyways. Never thought about the dic. I have one I can try. O well. Love and learn.
 

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Spray starting fluid down the throttle body, if it fires, you have a fueling issue. If it doesn't fire you probably have an electrical issue.
 

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If you don't want to spray starting fluid, then get a fuel pressure tester and go the legit route. Or just depress the schrader valve with a small flat tip screwdriver. If the fuel sprays everywhere, you have good pressure. If it dribbles, you don't.
 

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A little starter fluid wont hurt for diagnostics purpose, if you are that opposed to it raw gasoline works too. Just because the pump makes noise and moves doesn't mean it is generating adequate pressure. You have been given two different scenarios for diagnosing the problem, if you don't want to do either feel free to bring the car to an experienced mechanic and pay for them to do the tests.
 

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A little starter fluid wont hurt for diagnostics purpose, if you are that opposed to it raw gasoline works too. Just because the pump makes noise and moves doesn't mean it is generating adequate pressure. You have been given two different scenarios for diagnosing the problem, if you don't want to do either feel free to bring the car to an experienced mechanic and pay for them to do the tests.






If you don't want to spray starting fluid, then get a fuel pressure tester and go the legit route. Or just depress the schrader valve with a small flat tip screwdriver. If the fuel sprays everywhere, you have good pressure. If it dribbles, you don't.
Both of you. Thank you for the reply. There is no pressure in the fuel lines when I checked that. I do need to get a pressure treated from Matco. I used starting fluid on semis at work but never on auto. Both ways would work fine. I like to do things the right way if I can.
The problem was the fuel pump. Got it all back together and then when I turned the key on. I heard the pump. Primed 3 times and she ran. Now, cut the flare part on the exhaust to get a different muffler on. This one is in need of a change.
 
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