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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the trick for getting the splined axle into the transmission? (and likewise the passenger side axle into the intermediate shaft.)

I can insert the axle as far as the tip of the splines (I know this because turning the axle engages the intermediate shaft or the transmission), but cannot get past the 'C ring'. (That C shaped wire thingy about 2 cm from the inner end of the axle.)

On the passenger side (US car - Right Side) I have inserted the other end into the wheel hub and tapped a punch on the end of the axle. Do I have to really whack it?

On the Left Side, I have only inserted the axle into the transmission and pushed on it, tapping as much as the 'play' in the CV joint gives to tap it in...

(I had a difficult time removing them, and had to 'pry like Heck' to remove them, but don't want to beat on them too much installing.)

(These appear to be Saab replacement axles, still have the labels on them. I replaced the inner boots as I pinched them removing the axles for an engine replacement.)
 

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Iirc the gap in that c ring needs to be pointing up when inserting the axle in the transmission or half shaft. I did mine six months ago and had some problems with one side similar to what you are describing. Pulled the axle back out and tried it again with the gap pointing up and it went in with a good shove.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank You for that Tip! ... now arrg ripped another boot...

Putting the open end of the "C clip" up did the trick, Right side popped right into the transmission.

Unfortunately I pinched the inner boot again flexing the axle too far down to get the other end into the wheel hub... Good thing I ordered 3 boots...

Wondering if I should disconnect the ball joint and or tie-rod so I can get more 'flex' in the hub and not bend the axle CV so much?

I think AllData recommends inserting the wheel hub first. Anyone been There Done That lately?
 

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I undid the three bolts are the bottom of the control arm in order to to separate the ball joint, and then I could swing the entire strut out of the way. I found it easier to reassemble if taking the three bolts out from underneath rather than just the one bolt on top of the ball joint.

After getting the inner end of the axle inserted in the transmission or half shaft, you can get the steering knuckle back over the outer end of the axle, and then reassemble the ball joint.

I don't remember disconnecting the tie rods. That might be another way to do it, but the procedure in the WIS says to undo the ball joint on the wishbone and pull that down. You can wedge a piece of wood in-between the wishbone and the sway bar to hold it out of the way (again, that is the WIS instruction).

Good luck. I was fortunate to have access to a lift at the time. Still took a few hours to complete. I didn't pinch any of the boots, but I did accidentally pull the end of the axle out too far and get the tripod joint in there all out of whack. I thought I was going to have to pull the boot, but eventually got it back together after pulling it back off the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the tips! Axles are installed.

I'll repeat for anyone else searching:

Installing the axle splined end into the transmission or intermediate shaft requires that the 'C-clip' be positioned with the gap at the top. (Otherwise it was about impossible to get it to go in past ~ 1/4 inch...)

Removing the ball joint (I undid the 3 13mm head bolts) allowed the hub to move out of the way enough to get the axle into the wheel hub easily. My first attempt, after inserting the end into the transmission, flexed the inner joint too much and pinched the boot, requiring another boot replacement.

Thanks for the help! ;-)
 

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just put some wheel bearing grease on the snap ring to hold it in place. thats the way we do it every day. I actually position the snap ring with the split on one side; dry it wont work; the grease holds it centered pretty much and greases the way in.
 
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