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Does the front wheel alignment look pretty much right?
Axle Tripod bearing pops out!
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@Jim Mesthene It does, yes. I have measured all the things I could think of in there, and on both sides, and they all match up to a friend's 1990 900s. Meh.
It may be ill-advised, but I went ahead and shimmed the drivers side outer cv-housing, and tightened everything up. The tripod seats into the cup at a very reasonable depth now. There is almost a 1/2 gap at the end of the hub now due to this (inbetween the hub housing and the CV joint housing, and I am asking around here to get a machine ship to make a splined spacer that I can place at the end of the axle to help carry the load from the missing section of axle shaft. The axle nut gets most of it's threads on the shaft and tightens like it should. Road testing this morning shows that my ride is ok. Other things to note, is that with the CV extended out from the hub, that changes steering geometry a bit, which I will be watching/feeling carefully. Good news is that the CV boot does not come into contact with the shock right behind it when steering at lock on either side of the turning radius.
![Tire Automotive tire Wheel Wood Tread]()
![Automotive tire Wood Automotive wheel system Rim Gas]()
It may be ill-advised, but I went ahead and shimmed the drivers side outer cv-housing, and tightened everything up. The tripod seats into the cup at a very reasonable depth now. There is almost a 1/2 gap at the end of the hub now due to this (inbetween the hub housing and the CV joint housing, and I am asking around here to get a machine ship to make a splined spacer that I can place at the end of the axle to help carry the load from the missing section of axle shaft. The axle nut gets most of it's threads on the shaft and tightens like it should. Road testing this morning shows that my ride is ok. Other things to note, is that with the CV extended out from the hub, that changes steering geometry a bit, which I will be watching/feeling carefully. Good news is that the CV boot does not come into contact with the shock right behind it when steering at lock on either side of the turning radius.
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There is some underlying cause for this that spacers won't fix.
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Have heard of this issue on a 9000, was caused by damage to that side's control arm, very hard to tell but the control arm was bent a little bit.
Super lowered fwd track cars have in many cases shimmed the outer CV joint to push the splines in deeper. As long as everything threads in fully not an issue, and the steering angles are reset correctly. Way cheaper than some of the damage a drive shaft can do if it breaks loose at WOT.
Super lowered fwd track cars have in many cases shimmed the outer CV joint to push the splines in deeper. As long as everything threads in fully not an issue, and the steering angles are reset correctly. Way cheaper than some of the damage a drive shaft can do if it breaks loose at WOT.
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I definitely understand why you would shim a track car - lowered suspension drags the tripod out. In general on a track car you're accepting accelerated wear and countering that with essentially daily inspections and, likely, a driver who is paying a fair amount of attention to how the car behaves.
I really don't buy into the idea that because it works on a track car its advisable for the street. The pieces are designed to fit just so, and when they don't the answer really shouldn't be workarounds. Even on a track car, I wouldn't put the thing together, find out something didn't fit, and then say, "Well, I was going to shim it anyway." At the very least I would find the explanation, and more likely than not I'd set it up correctly first and then apply the track-specific mods.
As a specific whatif scenario here, let's assume the actual explanation is the a-arm is damaged. We shim the CV because it fixes the axle. 50 miles later the a-arm fails. That's all sorts of bad juju... I wouldn't want that on a track car where I could be hurt, and I definitely wouldn't want that on a street car where someone else could be.
I really don't buy into the idea that because it works on a track car its advisable for the street. The pieces are designed to fit just so, and when they don't the answer really shouldn't be workarounds. Even on a track car, I wouldn't put the thing together, find out something didn't fit, and then say, "Well, I was going to shim it anyway." At the very least I would find the explanation, and more likely than not I'd set it up correctly first and then apply the track-specific mods.
As a specific whatif scenario here, let's assume the actual explanation is the a-arm is damaged. We shim the CV because it fixes the axle. 50 miles later the a-arm fails. That's all sorts of bad juju... I wouldn't want that on a track car where I could be hurt, and I definitely wouldn't want that on a street car where someone else could be.
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Not disagreeing you need to find out the cause, if possible check absolutely everything to determine why is this happening.
On an older car though, must balance resources, time and cash required, and the need to have a working car.
A smashed gearbox casing caused by a tripod coming out could well send the whole Saab to the crusher...
On an older car though, must balance resources, time and cash required, and the need to have a working car.
A smashed gearbox casing caused by a tripod coming out could well send the whole Saab to the crusher...
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So can a steering knuckle that comes apart or jams from a broken CV joint spline end. I'd keep looking for the cause, rather than do what has been done. An accident will finish a car quicker than a broken trans.
At this point I am planning to have someone build me a longer axle shaft, but this is the work around until that time. Thanks for the input guys. As you may have seen ready, I have tried everything under the sun that I could think of to remedy this issue. SO, again, if anyone has any ideas, I'm open to them.
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